Intake manifold

[Shep69 149]

Does anyone have a good way of installing a intake manifold without getting leaks . I have purchased felpro gaskets this time . Do you use hi temp sealant ? I don't want to be doing this again . Anyone have a good procedure to follow.

 

Thanks Mark

[Rsmach1 71]

A lot of people use the hi temp silicone in place of the cork gaskets, (takes a thick bead) the cork has a tendency to squish out of place. Personally I take a center punch and make a series of dimples (10 or so) on the block and the manifold where the cork gasket sits and use a very light coat on both sides of the cork as well as a good size dab of silicone in the 4 corners where the cork meets the intake gasket.

[Rsmach1 71]

The center punch dimples create a rough spots to help hold the cork in place. I've also found that the copper hi temp silicone works best, for me anyway.

[69volunteer 84]

I would follow the instructions on the felpro gaskets. I usually ditch the rubber pieces that run across the back and front and use a generous bead of hitemp silicone.

 

I have also painted both sides of the gasket with gasgacinch but I don remember if those were felpro or not.

 

Also, use studs in the corners so that when you lower the intake onto the block you wont have to move it around so much to get it in place.

[Brian Conway 264]

OK so here's my method;  First dry fit your gaskets and intake. Make sure everything lines up, the bolts go in and the valve covers will fit.  Must be flat at intake to heads for the valve covers.  The FelPro set; I assume four pieces ?  Corks for the front and back and applied to the block.  Two long gaskets one for each side of the head.  Get a perfect fit if you need to trim 1/8 or so off the corks at the square notched area do so.  Dry fit must be perfect.   Silicone/RTV is next.  This last time I used Permatex Ultra Copper in a 3 oz. tube. I glue the cork gaskets on the day before.  Thin coats on the block ends and on the cork gaskets.  Carefully set in place. If you can get some weight on them evenly.  Do so if not don't worry about it.  Next day; on each head thin coat of permatex on the around the intake ports get a little more generous around the water jacket ports and heat port..  Set the gaskets in place press fit for good adhesion.  Thin coats again on the gasket face and again a bit more at the water and heat ports.  A generous Bead of Permatex on the cork gaskets front and rear.  Where the cork gasket meets the paper gasket another generous 1" or so long bead .  From the block edge past the cork and onto the paper.  Do this at all four corners.  At that same area run a bead up to the top of the head again all four ends.  I do not put anything on the intake itself.  Next get a friend to help you gentle and perfectly place the manifold exactly where it needs to be.  Check all four corners again to make sure the valve covers are going to go on.  Start all your bolts by hand, tighten, and torque in sequence.  Takes longer to read this than doing the job.  Brian

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[barnett468 418]

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one option.

install 1 long stud in each corner of the head.

put black permatex silicone gasket maker around each water port and a very small dab in the corner where the block meets the head.

put gasket cinch around the intake holes on the head and gasket.

install gasket.

remove the white plastic from the end seals and install.

put silicone around ALL ports on gasket and another very small dab in each corner.

install intake.

tighten bilts to around 14 ft lbs

tighten again.

tighten to around 29 ft lbs.

tighten again.

tighrtrern to 24 ft lbs.

tighten again.

tighten again.

fill with water and run car for 20 minutes and tighten again.

[jholmes217 65]

Here is an intake manifold install instruction post I did a year or two back.

 

1. Replace your thermostat and temperature sending units now. Use Teflon tape or paste on the threads of the sending unit. Use a 180-195 degree Robert Shaw thermostat, or get one that is made to stay open if it fails. Make sure the little hole is on top. If your are changing intakes, you should use sealer on all fittings and plugs also.

2. Cover all holes that you don't want something to fall into (distributor especially.)  Remove valve covers so they aren't in the way.  Run a tap through all the threads and make sure all your bolts are in good shape.  

3. If the engine is a small block Ford, put studs in the front and rear intake manifold bolt holes.  These will act as guides to slide the intake manifold down.  This won't work for an FE engine, not sure about a 351 Cleveland as I've never had one.  Test fit before putting any sealers on and start all the bolts, especially if it is a new intake and/or heads. If something isn't going to fit or tighten down correctly, find out before you put sealent/RTV on and think you are going final on assembly and then when it doesn't work, you have to buy another set of gaskets (ask me how I know!) If your heads and/or intake have never been milled (also called shaved by some,) you can probably use the cork gaskets on the front and rear of the intake if you want a factory look. If there is any doubt about them being milled, or you don't want to worry about possible leaks, use some stuff call The Right Stuff instead of the cork. Also put some RTV sealant around the coolant ports on both side of the gasket. Some like to put RTV around all ports, but that is a matter of personal preference IMO. Also, if you are going to block the exhaust heat crossover in the intake, now is the time to do that. If you don't drive the car in weather below 60 degrees, you probably don't need it. It hurts performance. If you drive in cold weather, you may want to leave it. Also, if it is an aluminum intake, be advised that it will eventually fail and need welded. The aluminum doesn't like the heat. Many newer performance intakes don't even have them.

4. After the test fit if everything went OK, put some RTV around the coolant ports, and set your gaskets down. Put more RTV on the gasket coolant port. Put your cork or Right Stuff down. Place the intake in position lightly by sliding it down the studs. Use another person if its an original iron intake so you don't hurt your back (don't even think of doing it yourself with an FE iron intake without a cherry picker!) Once it is in place, start all the intake bolts (don't forget to oil them for accurate torque reading.) Once all bolts are started, take up the slack and then go through the torque sequence until you get to the proper torque on all intake bolts. Hook everything back up, but let it dry for 24 hours before you add your fluids back in.

5. This is a good time to change your oil and filter as you probably got some coolant in the oil when you took the intake off.  Put your valve covers back on.  Rubber gaskets are better than the old cork type if your not worried about the factory look.

6. Leave the heater hose off the fitting on the intake. Add your antifreeze until it leaks out the fitting, then put your heater hose on. This helps ensure there isn't air trapped in the intake, possibly causing overheating problems. Turn your heater on, and fire it up with the radiator cap off. Watch for the thermostat to open, then add coolant as needed.

7. Tune your carb and timing, especially if this is a new combination. If you took the distributor out, check your timing anyway. For a 302, you can do an intake change or gasket change with the dizzy left in. Then drive it around to get it to operating temperature for a while.

8. Let cool overnight, then re torque all bolts again through the proper sequence. After a week, re torque them again. Keep checking for fluid and vacuum leaks.

I miss anything guys? 

[Brian Conway 264]

Nice write up jholmes.  I was thinking FE all the way.  Brian

[Shep69 149]

Great replies guys . Very much appreciated .

 

Cheers Mark

[jholmes217 65]

Nice write up jholmes.  I was thinking FE all the way.  Brian

Thanks Brian.  I did that post about a year or so ago, then added the additional tips that other forum members added.  So, it was a team effort post!

 

I just put a Blue Thunder on my 428 CJ last week.  I wish the studs would work on an FE, but since the intake bolts go in at an angle, it won't.  You got to eyeball it as best as possible, then use the distributor as a placement tool after you set the intake down.  Once you get the distributor in, then start all the intake bolts.  I use a mallet to tap the intake around slightly until I get all the bolts to start.