RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 So I'm preping the lower dash for paint. I laughed when I saw the two screw holes as I forgot about them. They were used to mount the clip for a CB radio microphone. Who puts a CB in a 69 Mach 1? Anywho, how should I repair these holes? Mig /tig? Will the heat screw up the grain finish? I sure one of the pro rebuilder guys knows the best repair. Or should I put another CB back in :) Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 The heat won't destroy the texture of the metal. But, the welded part won't have any texture. I would place a piece of copper molded to the front side of the dash and weld it up from the back side with your mig. Welding wont stick to the copper and since it was on the front side, you won't have any grinding marks on the front textured side. Then just grind the back to smooth it all out. Just make sure the copper is clamped well against the front side of the dash. B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks Bruce, that's what I was thinking and the only technique I could come up with. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 I say Put the CB Back in and when someone asks you about it just lie and tell them it was an option back then and your car is a 1 of 1 HAHA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 Mike I would venture to guess that it would be 1 of 1! I suppose I'm lucky she didn't drill a 1" hole in the quarter panel for the antenna. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 If it were me I think I would get some of that pliable steel repair epoxy like I suggested for a headlight bucket repair on this thread. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11071 Before I did the repair though I would also pic up some regular modeling clay, something that will dry hard when left out. Make a pressing of a clean area of the dash to make a negative image of the grain texture and let it dry. Then do your repair quickly and before the steel epoxy dries hard press the hardened modeling clay part against it to recreate a positive image of the grain. It may not line up exactly perfect but once painted I think would be the most unnoticeable repair you could do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 Epoxy sounds like a good idea. Unless you have exceptional welding skills. When I've epoxy repaired a condition like that, I've used the epoxy to bond a small patch of sheet metal on the back side allowing the excess epoxy to fill the holes. So far it's been successful, but I don't have TIG welding equipment to attempt a welding repair. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Damn good call Pak! And it just so happens I've got an unopened tube of the JB Weld Steel Stick hanging about 3' away from the dash. What a maroon I am. Getting old ain't for sissys. Glad I went to coffee with my old partner instead of welding it up this morning. Bob Edited December 19, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 Bob, I given your dilemma some thought and I have come to 2 choices I would consider. - No matter what route you take, your going to have an area that will look "blemished" for all intent and purposes. Maybe just installing a couple small black phillips oval head or low profile screw and call it a day might be the answer. - I like the weld idea from behind but you still will have some heat involved and the front exposed area will result in to however it turns out. You really cant go and grind that area on the front if you don't like what's happened. Therefore, why not do something "similar" that I do when I repair interior fiberglass panels. I find a clean textured area of the repair part with the similar contour and I clean it well. I then mark off an area (box) with masking tape and clean it with vegetable oil and wipe it dry without removing all the oil film. I then apply a couple coats of latex rubber with a brush. I add layers of gauze as reinforcement and apply additional coats of Latex. Let it dry in between coats. Once dried, peal the latex rubber patch away and you have a perfect latex replica of the texture. Apply the latex patch over the place to be filled (do it as you would the copper) to seal the hole. This becomes your texture form. Then, from the back side, apply some compound such as JB Weld to fill in the holes (for fiberglass I use fiber glass resin). You need to physically keep some force against the back of the latex so the compound does not bleed through. I sometimes use a cheap clay backing the latex to help maintain the form of the seal. Try some practice pieces to get a feel for the process. I buy the latex rubber in a plastic bottle in the model train area of Hobby Lobby, I get the moist clay at Hobby Lobby as well. Just a thought at some alternate method Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Damn good call Pak! And it just so happens I've got an unopened tube of the JB Weld Steel Stick hanging about 3' away from the dash. What a maroon I am. Getting old ain't for sissys. Glad I went to coffee with my old partner instead of welding it up this morning. Bob I'm not getting any younger either but good to know I still have my moments. Bugs Bunny might call you a maroon but I wouldn't. All the better that you have what you need already. When I was a kid I used to love to make custom action figures and two part molds and stuff and I have found several hobby tricks that work well for small repairs like this in the car hobby also. Whatever you end up doing make sure you document and post the results! Edited December 19, 2014 by Pakrat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Epoxy a patch on the back side. Sand and smooth the epoxy on the front side smooth and then use an exacto knife to replicate the texture you need. Then paint Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Man, you guys are good! Thanks to all for the clever ideas. Pak, thanks for recognizing the Bugs Bunny reference. I use dorky movie or tv lines every day with few folks getting it. I'm leaning heavily on Rsanter's method because it sounds like the easiest way to get a textured finish. I'll certainly let all y'all know how it turns out. Thanks again. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted December 22, 2014 Pak, thanks for recognizing the Bugs Bunny reference. I use dorky movie or tv lines every day with few folks getting it. Bob LOL, same here especially when I am talking with younger folk and then I have to explain and completely date myself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted December 22, 2014 Rustolium has a texture paint i,t is close to the grain finish .I have used it to hide sanded spots on the interior fiberglass .i have only found it in brown and white ,but when the entire piece has been repainted over a touch up it blends in well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted March 10, 2015 How did you ever make out with this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
