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Dave R.

Monte Carlo bar needed

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OK. I have read miles of threads about MC bars and export braces and shock towers. I am really confused now. What 'stangs were factory equipped with MC bars? My project, '69 428 CJ Mach 1, came to me without a MC bar. Should there have been one? Is there a measurement that I can make to determine if the towers are leaning in? From where to where? I'm about 2 weeks away from re-installing the motor and I think that any adjustments need to be done beforehand followed by the MC bar installation if necessary. Thanks. Dave R.

Edited by Dave R.
title should have been stated as a question which I have now done.

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Thanks Bob. What is your opinion on the need for a MC bar on anything else? This is my first classic 'stang and I don't want to neglect a piece of equipment that is needed. Dave.

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The thing with them is that as shared they came on the 65 and 66 Shelbys.It can be added to the 67-70 cars and maybe later as well. In my opinion unless you are doing spirited road course or canyon driving no need really. Again everyone has their own interpretation of hard driving. If your car is used for road course etc sure why not? Can't hurt, however extra holes will need to be drilled to mount the bar properly and if you have a valuable rare car that is something that might detract from its value.

Hope that helps.

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Thanks Zipppo and Brian. Mine measures right at 40 inches inside the shock towers. I guess after 45 years of who knows what kind of abuse this thing is still in ok shape. I will forgo the mc bar and direct my efforts elsewhere. Thanks again to you all. Dave R.

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I have the MC bar on all,of my cars and I like having it there. But I do drive my cars anywhere from spirited to hard.

If your car is stock and you drive it easy then don't worry about it. If you want to drive it hard then add the MC.

On my. 69 I did not drill the added holes as the car is a survivor car and I think it's fine without the added drilling.

So,what are you going to do with your car? Easy or hard?

 

Bob

Edited by Rsanter

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I can understand not wanting to drill the holes, but that motor is a lot of weight in the front, and it is a known flaw that the shock towers are not strong enough. Perhaps customizing one so it attaches to existing bolts on the top of the shock tower?

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Part of the problem is the original design with the shock and spring mounted on top of the UCA. The other problem for you is a very heavy engine.

 

Even without spirited driving I think you may benefit from the extra bracing, not so much for corner carving, but just to prevent the towers from leaning in and flexing at the UCA pivot. Don't waste your time with the ones with a bend in the middle, they're just for looks as the bend acts like a spring. IMO, If you use the export brace you don't need the MC bar except for all out racing on slicks.

 

If you remove the force acting on the towers by placing the shock and spring on the LCA that would help quite a bit, but that may be more than you're willing to do to that car. Another thing to consider is what tires you're using. If you have relatively skinny P235-15 street tires, the tires will flex and the whole car will just slide and not transfer much of the load into the chassis at all if you're really generating a lot of force around a turn.

 

To illustrate my point, you can use any of the G-meter apps on your cell phone and you'll likely find that what you consider spirited driving on the street doesn't amount to much force at all.

 

You may not want to make many mods given its an R code, but anything you could do to lighten the engine weight would help.

 

Just my .02

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OK. How about the mc bar that has plates on the ends for attaching under the shock covers? N holes to drill. I don't remember the brand name at this minute. I'm not sure if it has a bend in it. My intention is to drive it for pleasure and not to drag race or autocross or such. Nice weather cruising is my desire. Thanks so much to you all. Dave R.

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Just my thoughts here, An export brace is a must to help keep the flex down even under just normal driving (like anyone drives these cars like a grocery getter) But from my stand point a good set of frame rail connectors will help even more.

These car WILL flex in the middle more than at the front without them.

I have a nice long stress crack in the paint running down the drivers side were the roof line and quarter meet from a hard launch with sticky tires.

I promply installed sub frame connectors after that and was surprised how much better it handled the corners.

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OK. How about the mc bar that has plates on the ends for attaching under the shock covers? N holes to drill. I don't remember the brand name at this minute. .

 

Maier has two. One in the pic and the other is just the front from shock tower to shock tower. Couldn't find the pic on his web site. I think the one not shown is about $180.

 

Bob

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In many ways attaching under the shock mounts is better than in front of the tower. But the problem is that to do work to the car you may have to remove the whole brace verses just the MC bar

How good at fabricating are you?

You could make a couple plates that mount under the shock mounts and then make a tube that attaches to those plates. You then have an MC bar that you drilled no holes and is still removable for service

 

Bob

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If " nice weather cruising " for pleasure and " not to drag race or autocross " is what you are after; what you want is cheap, no mods required and best of all OE. For the 70 cars Ford modified the shock tower braces with an added bit of metal, at the cowl, to reduce the amount of flex. These can be had at a reasonably cost, look absolutely stock in your engine compartment, and should satisfy your not so special handling requirements. If you already have these then no further action required. Brian

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IMO the best bracing for what you posted is the Ford Mustang Export Brace Reinforcement Plate

 

 

IMG_4535.JPG

 

I just think this got over replyd

 

montecarlo bars help to counteract the flex caused by vertical suspension loads being transmitted to the top of a vehicle's strut towers relative to the rest of the chassis. Monte carlo bar are designed to reduce strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar, which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex.

 

A direct result of this is improved chassis rigidity, reduced understeer, improved tire wear, and metal fatigue is greatly reduced in the strut tower area.

 

youll see how much your towers have flexed over time when you install one, you will need to jack up the car in order to fit it

 

this will keep the towers flexing back in

 

any bracing or reinforment is good for your car

 

even the c70 volvos are installing them

Edited by juit

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I think the fact that you took measurements, and it was at 40 inches, shows that the towers have not leaned in, and you shouldn't really need one. I would definitely do the one piece export brace. Personally, I am all for chassis stiffening, and see sub frame connectors and extra bracing as a needed upgrade and wouldn't think twice about the value over the added improvement. But that's jus me. Good luck with your decision.

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