Dave R. 85 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) OK. I have read miles of threads about MC bars and export braces and shock towers. I am really confused now. What 'stangs were factory equipped with MC bars? My project, '69 428 CJ Mach 1, came to me without a MC bar. Should there have been one? Is there a measurement that I can make to determine if the towers are leaning in? From where to where? I'm about 2 weeks away from re-installing the motor and I think that any adjustments need to be done beforehand followed by the MC bar installation if necessary. Thanks. Dave R. Edited June 20, 2014 by Dave R. title should have been stated as a question which I have now done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 65 and 66 Shelby's came with Monte Carlo bars That's it Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave R. 85 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 Thanks Bob. What is your opinion on the need for a MC bar on anything else? This is my first classic 'stang and I don't want to neglect a piece of equipment that is needed. Dave. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zipppo 11 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 The thing with them is that as shared they came on the 65 and 66 Shelbys.It can be added to the 67-70 cars and maybe later as well. In my opinion unless you are doing spirited road course or canyon driving no need really. Again everyone has their own interpretation of hard driving. If your car is used for road course etc sure why not? Can't hurt, however extra holes will need to be drilled to mount the bar properly and if you have a valuable rare car that is something that might detract from its value. Hope that helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 39 & 7/8" or just under 40" is my measurement across the engine bay. Skip the MC it just gets in the way and you have to drill for it. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave R. 85 Report post Posted June 23, 2014 Thanks Zipppo and Brian. Mine measures right at 40 inches inside the shock towers. I guess after 45 years of who knows what kind of abuse this thing is still in ok shape. I will forgo the mc bar and direct my efforts elsewhere. Thanks again to you all. Dave R. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) I have the MC bar on all,of my cars and I like having it there. But I do drive my cars anywhere from spirited to hard. If your car is stock and you drive it easy then don't worry about it. If you want to drive it hard then add the MC. On my. 69 I did not drill the added holes as the car is a survivor car and I think it's fine without the added drilling. So,what are you going to do with your car? Easy or hard? Bob Edited June 24, 2014 by Rsanter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) I certainly would not drill holes for a m/c bar in an R code. Rsanter gives good advice. Bob Edited June 24, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted June 24, 2014 I can understand not wanting to drill the holes, but that motor is a lot of weight in the front, and it is a known flaw that the shock towers are not strong enough. Perhaps customizing one so it attaches to existing bolts on the top of the shock tower? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted June 24, 2014 Part of the problem is the original design with the shock and spring mounted on top of the UCA. The other problem for you is a very heavy engine. Even without spirited driving I think you may benefit from the extra bracing, not so much for corner carving, but just to prevent the towers from leaning in and flexing at the UCA pivot. Don't waste your time with the ones with a bend in the middle, they're just for looks as the bend acts like a spring. IMO, If you use the export brace you don't need the MC bar except for all out racing on slicks. If you remove the force acting on the towers by placing the shock and spring on the LCA that would help quite a bit, but that may be more than you're willing to do to that car. Another thing to consider is what tires you're using. If you have relatively skinny P235-15 street tires, the tires will flex and the whole car will just slide and not transfer much of the load into the chassis at all if you're really generating a lot of force around a turn. To illustrate my point, you can use any of the G-meter apps on your cell phone and you'll likely find that what you consider spirited driving on the street doesn't amount to much force at all. You may not want to make many mods given its an R code, but anything you could do to lighten the engine weight would help. Just my .02 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave R. 85 Report post Posted June 24, 2014 OK. How about the mc bar that has plates on the ends for attaching under the shock covers? N holes to drill. I don't remember the brand name at this minute. I'm not sure if it has a bend in it. My intention is to drive it for pleasure and not to drag race or autocross or such. Nice weather cruising is my desire. Thanks so much to you all. Dave R. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 Just my thoughts here, An export brace is a must to help keep the flex down even under just normal driving (like anyone drives these cars like a grocery getter) But from my stand point a good set of frame rail connectors will help even more. These car WILL flex in the middle more than at the front without them. I have a nice long stress crack in the paint running down the drivers side were the roof line and quarter meet from a hard launch with sticky tires. I promply installed sub frame connectors after that and was surprised how much better it handled the corners. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 +1 ^^^^^^ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 you dont need to drill the car, you drill the montecarlo bar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 OK. How about the mc bar that has plates on the ends for attaching under the shock covers? N holes to drill. I don't remember the brand name at this minute. . Maier has two. One in the pic and the other is just the front from shock tower to shock tower. Couldn't find the pic on his web site. I think the one not shown is about $180. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 In many ways attaching under the shock mounts is better than in front of the tower. But the problem is that to do work to the car you may have to remove the whole brace verses just the MC bar How good at fabricating are you? You could make a couple plates that mount under the shock mounts and then make a tube that attaches to those plates. You then have an MC bar that you drilled no holes and is still removable for service Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 If " nice weather cruising " for pleasure and " not to drag race or autocross " is what you are after; what you want is cheap, no mods required and best of all OE. For the 70 cars Ford modified the shock tower braces with an added bit of metal, at the cowl, to reduce the amount of flex. These can be had at a reasonably cost, look absolutely stock in your engine compartment, and should satisfy your not so special handling requirements. If you already have these then no further action required. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) IMO the best bracing for what you posted is the Ford Mustang Export Brace Reinforcement Plate I just think this got over replyd montecarlo bars help to counteract the flex caused by vertical suspension loads being transmitted to the top of a vehicle's strut towers relative to the rest of the chassis. Monte carlo bar are designed to reduce strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar, which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex. A direct result of this is improved chassis rigidity, reduced understeer, improved tire wear, and metal fatigue is greatly reduced in the strut tower area. youll see how much your towers have flexed over time when you install one, you will need to jack up the car in order to fit it this will keep the towers flexing back in any bracing or reinforment is good for your car even the c70 volvos are installing them Edited June 25, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MustangBobby 28 Report post Posted June 25, 2014 I think the fact that you took measurements, and it was at 40 inches, shows that the towers have not leaned in, and you shouldn't really need one. I would definitely do the one piece export brace. Personally, I am all for chassis stiffening, and see sub frame connectors and extra bracing as a needed upgrade and wouldn't think twice about the value over the added improvement. But that's jus me. Good luck with your decision. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave R. 85 Report post Posted June 30, 2014 Thanks to all of you for taking time to reply. I do appreciate that and will have to digest all of this info. Good luck guys. Dave R. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted June 30, 2014 Here's a thread I started awhile back if it will help you any. Feel free to add any info that may help others. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10943 . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites