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Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread

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Thanks Sven, I'm reading your blog, and there's a lot of helpful stuff in there. Hope to see you up in the saddle soon too.

Thanks Frode!  Once I get the new shop built, I can get refocused on the Boss project!  Just not enough hours in the day!

 

In the meantime, I am enjoying seeing your progress in bringing your hot rod back to life!

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Got some stuff done yesterday. I also got the MustangSteve door hinge kit the other day, so I put the hinges in the strip-all acid tank. The bodyshop where the car is, has closed for vacations for 3 weeks, but I got a key, so that I could go and work on it. So I finished both doors yesterday. I'm not sure If I'll remove the paint on the interior of the door, I think I will, but first I gotta finish the trunk door, cowl and rear valence.

 

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It was great to see the whole side of the car again. Way to long since last time.

 

Also, this arrived yesterday too. This jibberish is in Norwegian, but it is the registration/title for the car, and it says the the car is approved by the DMV modified with the TCP suspension and rack & pinion and the Wilwood disc brakes. An important document to have.

 

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Great update Frode!  Is the approval document something similar to what was required in Germany from TUV?

 

Hoping you will find the door hinge kits as nice as I did.  Can't believe how nice the doors swing since making that upgrade.

 

Best!

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Sven, it's not quite the same. TUV is an indipendent technical inspection association, and not an goverment organization. Their position in the automotive world is so strong that their approval stamp is kinda like a golden ticket when you need to have something approved.

The Norwegian DOT will use TÃœV papers to approve modified vehicles; ie the new parts that is added to the vehicle will preferebly have an TÃœV approval. At least in europe, this is the standard. So, if my suspension was TÃœV approved, all I would have to do is go to the DOT, hand over the TÃœV papers and say "I'm installing this" and they would add it to my registration/title (We call it Vognkort - "Vehicle Document". It's made up of two documents, the registration, which has the tecnical info and in my case the modification approval, and it has to be in the vehicle at all times. The other document is the title, which the owner has in his home or bankbox or wherever they store their valuable papers. Both documents must be present for a car to be sold.)

Anyways, since the parts I'm putting on the car doesn't have approval from a trusted third party like the TÃœV, each case have to be induvidually processed. So I had to supply documentation from the manufacturers of those parts. Basicly, the inspector can see that there is 13" rotors with 4 piston calipers on the car, but he needs a document that says it is 13" rotors and 4 piston calipers made for that make and model vehicle. So a modified vehicle that is approved, and has this text in the Vehicle Document is worth a lot more money than one that isn't approved. Pluss, there is no hassle if you do get pulled over for a roadside DOT technical inspection.

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Another day, another update :D

Started with the rear valence today; a fair bit of bondo on it.

 

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The bond covered up the welds made for the larger than stock exhaust openings.

 

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All done, but will require some work.

 

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Started on the cowl too, but still has some work left on it.

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Lots of great progress and some fine work being done ! I'll throw a guess at the front fender and say that maybe someone had a '70 fender and turned it into a '69 for some or what ever reason. If the rear section is factory should be able to see a part # stamping. Keep up the great work/progress !

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I was back at the body shop today. We're polishing my brother's wheels today so I HAD to go and see if they would fit, asnd they did. :D18958784634_376e513cd6_b.jpg19581341925_47fe427753_b.jpgThis is an 12" wide wheel with 335s. My target is 11" wheel with 315s.

What is the model of those wheels?

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Thanks RPM. Congrats on the moderator status!

 

Done with the trunk lid and inside of the passenger door. Progress is progress.

 

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I did the last 3 triangles after the picture was taken.

 

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Some hard to reach spots left... just need a smaller tool.

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Got the new radiator. It's a DeWitts unit. Looks very good. I plan to paint it with their Black Ice radiator paint.

 

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Checking for clearance. Looks like a perfect fit.

 

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Looks good.

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I talked to the guy at the body shop about flush mounting the scoops, after I saw a '69 on ebay with that mod. I really liked it so we went for it! Still a bit rough, but we'll clean that up.

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This Is the car I was that has this mod.

 

http://www.rkmotorscharlotte.com/sales/inventory/active#!/1969-Ford-Mustang/135189

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Yeah, that's what I think also. I've seen (pictures of) other '69s with modified scoops, but they never look good. I liked that RK Charlotte car, it looks right. I want to flush fit the  bumpers too. I'm aiming to modify those parts to look like how the car was drawn by the designers, not how it was actually built. Look at the side scoops and bumpers here to see what I mean: 3.jpg

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Did some the last of the paint removal in the door openings today. Hope to have primer on it soon.

 

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Drop dead gorgeous, isn't she?

 

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Underside of the driprail. I've often wondered if I shouldn't rather have acid dipped the whole car. Has anyone tried that?

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I did.   It was well worth it in my opinion.  I talk about it in the beginning of this video, after that, I just ramble on about stuff unrelated to your question.  It wasn't acid though.  It went through a giant hot tank to remove EVERYTHING, and then it went into a rust removal tank that used electolosis to remove the rust, not acid.  It doesn't damage any of the good metal like acid will.  They could leave it in there for months, and pull it out and it would be fine. 

 

I was working on a 68 Shelby and the owner decided to save some money, and took it to a place that had an actual acid tank, and when it came back, there were a bunch of pin holes around a patch that we put on the quarter panel.  I know they weren't there before, because I used a spot light on both sides of the repair to look for pin holes and weld them up.  It ate up perfectly good metal.

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Alright! If I ever do another project after this, I might do that. But the thing is, the only place in Norway that does this, only high pressure wash it after it gets out of the tank. No anti-corrosion dipping or anything. I know some have taken their cars to England to use a process similar to what you describe. Anyway, looks like a cool project you got there.

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I'm not sure that is the problem. The hinges are worn out, but I have a MustangSteve hinge repair kit that I haven't installed yet. The thing I'm talking about is the horizontal profiles not matching between the door and fender.

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Oooh! Well, as mine have the same offset body lines with Ford fenders and doors, I kinda think quality wasn't job 1 for Ford in the 60's. I figured the upper lines are more visible so I'll concentrate on them.

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