Ash 145 Report post Posted April 23, 2012 Got a start on my rotisserie this afternoon. Got the 2 bases made with caster wheels fitted. I went a larger 5 inch wheel to hopefully tackle the gravel in my driveway outside my garage door. I had found a set of plans on the net and made my own drawing to convert inches to mm. Makes way more sense that way! :lol: I decided not to do the step in the base for the feet though, thought I'd keep it simple. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 24, 2012 I would personally run a pole throught the feet from front to back. Just to stop it folding in on itself. Not absolutely necessary but good insurance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 24, 2012 You're right, I plan to do so. I'm just going to run a length of 25mm square tube from one to the other. I think I will weld in some nuts to the joining lengh and then I can adjust the position if need be. I went and brought the rest of the steel today and got some more done this arvo. Going back out once the kids are in bed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted April 24, 2012 Turn the top part of your leg on the front that the wheel mounts to 90 degrees. Use two wheels up there at that point and it will allow you to have room to install a center tube. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 24, 2012 I was thinking of just running the joining tube above the wheel and connect it to the inside of the frame/leg. The tube above the wheel is open on the end. Even at its lowest point, I'm pretty sure I should not have any clearance issues when rotating the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 25, 2012 Almost one complete. Just the arms to go plus I need to add a method of locking it in position as it turns. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted April 25, 2012 looks like fun! Looking back now, i wish i had made a rotisserie...i'll be thinking of that when i am laying on my back welding and grinding the underside of the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks and yeah, it is! I'm really enjoying making it! I know too that once I am done with it, I'll be able to sell it and make a little profit to put towards parts for the car. It's really going to help me out, welding and grinding on my back is really not my forte. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted April 26, 2012 I was thinking of just running the joining tube above the wheel and connect it to the inside of the frame/leg. The tube above the wheel is open on the end. Even at its lowest point, I'm pretty sure I should not have any clearance issues when rotating the car. Gotcha I payed no attention to the pictures, was looking at the drawing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 26, 2012 Lookin good, won't be long before she will be up on stilts! Then the real fun begins! Are you planning on stripping the undercarriage back to bare metal? I had myself a fun Anzac day off. Pulled the dash out of the xb and cut a fair bit of rust out of the top corners of the cowl. Have to cut out both vents and plate up a few parts of the lower cowl. Decided to do it from the underside, god help me. Pulling that dash out was a nightmare. It will never go back in the same, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted April 27, 2012 Hey Ash, I would run metal casters instead of the plastic hard rubber ones. The plastic hard rubber casters have a tendency to flatten on the bottom making the whole assembly difficult to roll. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 27, 2012 Lookin good, won't be long before she will be up on stilts! Then the real fun begins! Are you planning on stripping the undercarriage back to bare metal? I had myself a fun Anzac day off. Pulled the dash out of the xb and cut a fair bit of rust out of the top corners of the cowl. Have to cut out both vents and plate up a few parts of the lower cowl. Decided to do it from the underside, god help me. Pulling that dash out was a nightmare. It will never go back in the same, lol. Cheers! Looking forward to getting it up and over. Am not too sure what other things I'm going to find. I guess depending on that will depend on what and how far I go with it. I can imagine the XB dash was not fun. I haven't done one of them, never needed to in the time I owned my XB and XC. I've done several XD/XE/XF's though and they are not good either! Having mine on the rotisserie will help to get to the under side of the cowl, should be easier I hope to fix that way. Hey Ash, I would run metal casters instead of the plastic hard rubber ones. The plastic hard rubber casters have a tendency to flatten on the bottom making the whole assembly difficult to roll. Bruce I had looked at what was available Bruce, and nylon in larger diameter wheels was about it. I really wanted 6 inch wheels but couldn't find anything for a decent price. These cost me about $90 for the 6 which was better by quite a bit to what else I found. If you look at the gravel on my driveway in that last shot, you can see it is quite rough. The steel wheels on my engine crane, although are smaller diameter, don't do anything but dig in and get stuck. I think these larger wheels should go over ok, they definitely roll better as just the stand but will wait to see what they are like loaded up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted April 27, 2012 Okay cool. How about over sized rubber air types tires for like hand carts etc.? Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted April 27, 2012 I had looked at some of those too, Bruce. From memory it was going to be $50 or a wheel. And not a lot had the pivoting option. And I also wanted them to lock as my back shed where I will be painting has a slope to the slab. When I did find a good choice of wheel, it was from the US and postage was an absolute killer, lots more then the wheels themselves. You guys really are spoilt for selection and what you pay on materials and tools etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Got the rear glass out now. I waited until my Dad was here to help but one we started to try, we soon realised how much the rubber was bodged up, damaged and quite messy so there was no way it was going back in. A few cuts and a couple of minutes later, it was out. Underneath the rubber isn't very pretty. The area where some tools had been shoved in had scratched up pretty bad by the looks of it and caused some surface rust. I think it should clean up ok but just how long till this got bad! You can see in some spots it has started to bubble and the paint has flaked a bit. I've been searching around and have found it a bit inconsistent. But what are peoples views on how the side Mach 1 decals should lay, should they be completely straight front to back or should the rear deal behind the rear wheel arch angle up towards the light? Mine angles up, I don't think it looks right and I think the light may be in the wrong spot. Here's a couple of shots to show just how much It really squares off at the light The light whole itself looks to be cut in with a grinder and this made me question its correct spot. Slowly progressing with the rotisserie too, getting a bit of time here and there to do some but am almost done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Great work on the glass =) You've really got a good project there. Looking at the minor rust you've run into it's not going to take much effort to grind it off & make it right. I'm not 100% on the stripes but I it looks like they were put on crooked from the door on back. I'm pretty sure they angled a little up in the rear but not that much following the body line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machattack 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Ash, when I first saw pics of this car I couldn't believe your luck with what you said it was going to owe you on the road. I know you're spending a bit of time and money now but you will still be miles in front when the car is finished and I'd say it's a sure bet you'll do a great job. It'll all be worth it in the end. On a side note..... your coupe looks great in every shot I've seen of it. It may not have the same wow factor as the Mach 1 but it'll certainly bring you many more hours of joy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Great work on the glass =) You've really got a good project there. Looking at the minor rust you've run into it's not going to take much effort to grind it off & make it right. I'm not 100% on the stripes but I it looks like they were put on crooked from the door on back. I'm pretty sure they angled a little up in the rear but not that much following the body line. Cheers Mstang! I haven't been able to do a great deal the last few weeks with plenty else on my plate. I've just completed some things so will get more of a chance this week hopefully. I'm keen to rip into this paint to see just how good those rusty spots clean up, shouldn't be too hard like you said. But there is plenty of other stuff that needs to be done before that so will hold off for now. I think you're right about the stripes. I looked at quite a lot of car images and they seem to vary slightly but not such an aggressive rise like mine. I found this good example of the black/red colour combo, it has its decal flat the whole way along. I'm just not sure if mine a low along the front sections or just too high at the side light, or both? Ash, when I first saw pics of this car I couldn't believe your luck with what you said it was going to owe you on the road. I know you're spending a bit of time and money now but you will still be miles in front when the car is finished and I'd say it's a sure bet you'll do a great job. It'll all be worth it in the end.On a side note..... your coupe looks great in every shot I've seen of it. It may not have the same wow factor as the Mach 1 but it'll certainly bring you many more hours of joy. Thanks Machattack! I think once I'm done the car will be around a 40k into my pocket. It's already worth over twice what it owes me so I know I'm ahead there. I know it isn't ideal to have to do all this but I'm loving it, I literally have my blood and sweat in this car, it really will be mine once it is done. I love the coupe. I hadn't driven it for a couple of days until yesterday afternoon as I have my new truck I've been out working in. But yesterday I took the 66 to go get the kids from school, instant smile on my face! It's a bit weird getting out of the F150 which huge in every way and then into the little 66. It feels so tiny! :lol: But it is such a cool car, doesn't have that wow factor like you said like the Mach 1, it's just a cool cruiser. I think it was even happy to get out as it had a speak in the suspension but now its gone! :thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Ash, As I was looking at the side pic you posted I was sayingthat I thought the stripe should be straight all the way down the side & seeing the pic of the black Mach-1 you posted just confirms what I thought. Keep up the good work. The 65 Coupe looks great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 5, 2012 Cheers Mike!! I might have to search around and see if I can find some measurements of placement for the side light and decals. Surely there would be something out there? I know there are such things for hood pins and shaker cut outs. If it were possible to get a decal without the light allowance, I would eliminate the light as I think it would give a cleaner look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 5, 2012 I meant to mention as well, I picked this Iwata LPH400 up this week for $150 of ebay. It has a 1.6 nozzle so I will need to get a 1.4 but I think I did ok for a $600 gun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 Wow nice buy. I would probably stick with the 1.6 and try it before swapping it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 No worries, no harm in giving it a go. Everywhere I've read, they use a 1.4. , I've been reading lots on the SPI forum. Some use a 1.3 for clear but 1.4 is supposedly the pick. I wonder how it would go with primer though with the 1.6. I've read 1.8 is the preference. But I don't want to spend $140 on a 1.8 nozzle when a dedicated Iwata primer gun is about the same price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 9, 2012 Pretty much have the rotisserie done now. Just some minor things to go such as bolt holes to lock out the arms but I need to fit the arms to the car first to get their exact location. Also need a lock or some sort for the rotation. Getting close though to attaching to the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted May 9, 2012 looking good. i'm sure you will be a little nervous the first time you spin the car around, i know i would be lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites