I crashed...

[elgrande 10]

Damn it.

 

So it was raining really hard in Souther California a few days ago. I was going around a turn in my 69 coupe and the back started sliding out, so i counter-steered it and it seemed like it fixed itself but then it started fishtailing around the other way, but by then I had run out of road and ran into a curb sideways at like 20 mph.

 

The visible damage:

 

-Rear Left tire and rim completely destroyed because it took most of the damage.

 

-Oil Pan hit the curb as well and caused a huge oil leak.

 

-ripped power steering hose.

 

Im ordering another mag wheel and getting a tire soon, also another power steering hose. But Im not comfortable changing the oil pan myself (and the gaskets) just because it seem like its too difficult. Am I right?

 

What else should I check for?

 

The engine still sounds fine, I checked the suspension and everything was ok in the rear. Suspension is where it should be & leaf spring are fine.

 

Is there anything else I should check?:helpsmilie:

 

Oh and F-You rain:double fuck:

 

-Sad 'Stang owner,

Alex :crying:

[flight96 14]

OUCH !!!! Bummer...As long as your OK, that's the main thing. Cars can be repaired !!!

[jmlay 80]

Replacing the oil pan is not a big deal if you have a hoist to lift the engine, they can be rented. It is possible you could jack the engine up enough to replace the pan but a hoist would be much easier. Unbolting the pan is the easy part.

 

Mike

[dennyb68 11]

You dont have to lift the engine at all.Just remove the crossmember under the oil pan and remove the pan.This is a really easy repair with the engine still in the car.

[elgrande 10]

You dont have to lift the engine at all.Just remove the crossmember under the oil pan and remove the pan.This is a really easy repair with the engine still in the car.

 

Ill take your word for it.

[Cupid 10]

Sorry to hear that man. Good luck on the repairs.

 

You gotta be careful with those Grande's.....those things are beasts....the Grande' package alone is rumored to have 100 additional ponies...shhhh...it's a secret! :biggrin:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

....then I woke up. :lol:

[purple69 10]

check the oil pump and pickup tube after you remove the pan to ensure it wasn't damaged.

[Trinitys 134]

Do not....lift the engine to replace the oil pan, it’d be dangerous and a real pain in the butt! We did a gasket on my buddies '67 and I did an oil pump on my old coupe in high school, both power steering cars.

Unbolt the idler arm from the car, pop off the x member and there is more than adequate room under the car! I’d clean everything out real good and pop it back on. A day’s work be a lot easier the lifting the motor out.

[Trinitys 134]

Also, check to make sure the car is still aligned front to back and you didn't twist the unibody. I think I twisted the high school car by pretty much doing the same exact thing. It was wet and I was 17......add one culvert and a sideways car.....you get the point! It never drove the same. Plus the light blue door looked real bad! lol

[fvike 173]

Ill take your word for it.

 

And here is proof!

 

 

Here you can see the engine is clearly in the car when I'm working on it. I had to replace the rod bearings because I stupidly had misplaced the oil pump gasket when installing it, so it blocked the passage into the block. Don't do that when you inpect the oil pump!!

[elgrande 10]

This is really helpful. Thanks a lot, it feels good knowing that there's people out there that have gone through the same crap as me.

 

One more thing, my car has some weird rims (which I can't find a replacement for.) They are Enkei Mags(14'') from the 80s, they look like wanna-be-magnum-500. So it looks like I'm going to be riding with a different wheel until I eventually change them all.

 

They look like so

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2649284780103660732AseHkx

 

I found some on ebay but wrong size (plus the guy's selling 4 of them.)

 

By the way again,

it just started hailing:frown:

 

-Alex

[bnickel 10,004]

This is really helpful. Thanks a lot, it feels good knowing that there's people out there that have gone through the same crap as me.

 

One more thing, my car has some weird rims (which I can't find a replacement for.) They are Enkei Mags(14'') from the 80s, they look like wanna-be-magnum-500. So it looks like I'm going to be riding with a different wheel until I eventually change them all.

 

They look like so

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2649284780103660732AseHkx

 

I found some on ebay but wrong size (plus the guy's selling 4 of them.)

 

By the way again,

it just started hailing:frown:

 

-Alex

 

 

there is a guy on www.mercurycougar.net that had a set of those wheels for sale a while back, i doubt he would sell just one though. check the for sale forums

[bnickel 10,004]

found the guy on there finally. his username is mrecoolgar. if you're interested PM him

 

here is the thread where i asked hin if he still has the wheels available, go the last post

 

http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?p=336286&posted=1#post336286

[elgrande 10]

found the guy on there finally. his username is mrecoolgar. if you're interested PM him

 

here is the thread where i asked hin if he still has the wheels available, go the last post

 

http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?p=336286&posted=1#post336286

 

so, your pretty much awesome. thanks alot man, your help is greatly appreciated

 

-alex

[bnickel 10,004]

so, your pretty much awesome. thanks alot man, your help is greatly appreciated

 

-alex

 

 

i am awesome aren't i? LOL.....no problem man glad to help you out. hope it works out for you. i wanted a set of those forever myself. cool wheel, kind of a cross between a 69 shelby wheel, magnum 500 and an original straight spoke torq thrust wheel, with just a touch of Ronal thrown in as well with the rivets and the lug nut flange shape.

[elgrande 10]

I have a few more questions. Do magnum 500 wheels fit universally among muscle cars? Does a magnum 500 wheel fit a dodge or a chevy and a ford? My friend gave me an extra magnum 500 he had lying around that I could use. He had it in his old dodge. The problem, however, is that the holes don't line up with the mustangs. The tire doesn't fit on the car.

 

What is the diameter for the holes? in other words, what distance should the holes in a wheel be for it to fit a 1969 mustang?

 

thanks.

[Pakrat 1,043]

The bolt pattern for a 5 lug ford is typically 5 x 4 1/2 (114mm). How you take the pattern measurement always depends on how many lugs you have. For example:

 

STEP 1 Measuring

4 Lug Pattern Measure from the center of the first lug to the center of the third lug in the pattern.

5 Lug Pattern Measure from the back of the first lug to the center of the third lug in the pattern.

6 Lug Pattern Measure from the center of the first lug to the center of the fourth lug in the pattern.

 

STEP 2 Putting It All Together (#Of Lugs) X (Measurement Between Specified Lugs)

 

Example: (5 Lugs) X (4.5" Between Lugs 1 And 3) = 5x4.5 Lug Pattern

 

Your dodge one is probably a 5 x 4 (100mm) pattern seeming close but no cigar.

[69mustang351W 0]

Good luck Elgrande!

 

I may also remove the oil pan to push out some dents.

[bnickel 10,004]

the mopar wheel you have is probably the early 5x4.25" bolt pattern. "most" mopar wheels will work, except for the small car 5 bolt pattern like you just found out. after about 70 or 71 pretty much all mopars used the 5x4.5 bolt pattern and before that only mid-size cars and up got that bolt pattern

[elgrande 10]

How do you remove the oil pan?

I removed the crossmember, the steering link and even the starter and unbolted the oil pan. The oil pan just wont come off, the gaskets are holding it real tight. I got a small razor blade and tried taking off as much of the old gasket as possible and i wasn't able to get it off...its the original oil pan too.

 

recommendations?

 

reccomendations?

[bnickel 10,004]

first double check everything and make sure you have all the bolts out, then just use a screwdriver or small pry bar to pry on a corner of the pan and it should pop loose. just make sure you have all the oil drained before you pop that pan loose, though.

[elgrande 10]

i did all of that but it still wont come off. I used a crow bar but instead of the oil pan coming off, its just bent the oil pan. It doesn't even budge. Its as if the bolts are still on. I try shaking the pan and the whole car shakes with it.

 

I double checked and:

 

-i took all the bolts off

-removed crossmember

-disconnected steering linkage

-took off starter

-removed oil filter

 

all this gives me plenty of space to work but the oil pan just does not budge.

[dlinebar 2]

Well the original installer must have used some heavy duty gasket sealer. I have had a problem in the past with valve covers people have done this with. If you removed all the bolts with enough prodding it should come off. I would take a flathead screwdriver and start at on point and twist it a bit them move an inch or two and do it again and so on all the way around the seal. In effect this will create a zipper effect and may get it to come off. Also hit it a few times real good with a rubber mallot....it will eventually comeo off..

 

Dan

[bnickel 10,004]

are you absolutely sure you got every one of the bolts out? there are 2 sizes of bolts, there should be a 1/2 head bolt in each corner and a bunch of 7/16 head bolts around the pan

[elgrande 10]

I'm positive I took out all the bolts, i think what happened (and I was noticing when I was working on it) is that the old lady who had my car before probably had someone try and fix a leak, so they put some sort of rubber cement. When I was scraping of the gaskets I noticed some weird black plastic layer of, what looked liked, old epoxy. That was harder to get off then the gaskets.

 

I completely removed one side of the pan, but it is still stuck on the other side and won't budge.