Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
jnet4jt

First resto, any advice

Recommended Posts

Well not so much, got to replace both. ordered them the wheel wells and a tri-4 bar rear suspension from rod & customs. Happy early birthday to me. This is starting to get expensive, might as well do it the way I want. I'll post some pics tomorrow. I've got the frame rails removed (well most of them), and transition pan back. I was going to brace it up but it was mostly rusted off and not really attached. I'll have to make sure to check all the measurements before welding everything up.

Edited by jnet4jt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can relate. I had to cut out the tail panel on my project because I discovered the left frame rail was bent.

 

Looks like a big challenge. But it will be very rewarding to complete it. I know it's easy to get discouraged. So, in case you are getting discouraged, hang in there!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got some work done today. tacked the rear frame rails in place, along with the transition pan, tail light panel, rear trunk floor and both drop off's.

well at least I started to I ran out of gas for the mig. the rest is held in place with clecos. I also test fitted the tri 4 link rear. will need a little tweaking but won't be that bad. Trying to make a last minute dash before this next deployment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the rear coil-overs in. I'll post some pics tomorrow in the day light. I'll have to finish up all the welding when I get back. At least I can move her around the garage. Wife's happy, she might be able to park in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't know how I've missed your thread but just read through it, and it's awesome to see the progress. I've got a 12 yr old and he loves old Mustangs (we're working on a 70) , it's heart warming to see your kids in the pictures. I just wanted to say keep up the good work, it's really starting to come together. Thank you, so very much for your service to our country :thumbup1: Stay safe and come home soon.

 

Bossed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love that the kiddos think it's cool to work on it with me, hell even the wife helped out with the rear suspension. They haven't had a chance to for a while due to all the welding and grinding. Hopefully when I get back I'll have enough saved up for the doors and hood, then I can work panel allignment and will be able to use there help. I will have to look at the outer rockers to see how much bondo is in there. As for the service I'm just grateful to have a good job, so no thanks needed, not to mention it is kind of cool to work on a gunship.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been a while so here's a quick update. The car is on a frame machine. The shop I took the car to apparently welded/assembled frame rails, floor pan, firewall, etc. using 67 specs. I took the car back to the shop to fix their mistake and they had to send it to the frame shop. Found out they never fixed the previous accident damage properly and that was throwing things off as well.:thumbdown: Good thing is They are going to pay for the fix, after a few talks with the owner, since they screwed it up. Should be getting her back within the next week or two. Also had them do a mini tub job while the were already working in that area fixing stuff.

 

I started ordering parts for the car the other day. Going with new American Auto wire kit, EZ-EFI (hope it it as good as I've been reading), RHS 200 58CC aluminum heads set up for roller, cam retro fit with max lift @ .513 (will check pushrod length and valve clearance to pistons, T5 conversion kit, Global west coil over, Vintage A/C, and a couple other small things. I will be going through the stuff I have to see what I can reuse or order what I have to replace for the inside of the car. Also plan of going with lizard skin once everything is welded up in it's proper place. :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I took apart my 351 and found one piston with a broken skirt (wasn't ran like that as far as I can tell) and I need to have the cylinders bored out. This is going to cut into my paint budget. The block was supposed to be a fresh rebuild. Turns out all they did was replace the cam. :thumbdown: Oh well, I might try to paint her myself. The last car I did didn't turn out too bad. Have to cut cost so I'm ditching the lizard skin and going with AL's heat and noise reducer. Anyone ever used this stuff before?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well I took apart my 351 and found one piston with a broken skirt (wasn't ran like that as far as I can tell) and I need to have the cylinders bored out. This is going to cut into my paint budget. The block was supposed to be a fresh rebuild. Turns out all they did was replace the cam. :thumbdown: Oh well, I might try to paint her myself. The last car I did didn't turn out too bad. Have to cut cost so I'm ditching the lizard skin and going with AL's heat and noise reducer. Anyone ever used this stuff before?

 

I feel your pain. Funny how that works. My C6 was supposed to be rebuilt. Found out that all the PO did was to change the torque converter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just dropped off the block and rods at the machine shop for a .030 over bore, zero decking, and pressing in the new piston pins. I stuck with 22cc dish with valve relief. With the 58cc heads I'm looking at about 9.2:1 CR and a projected hp of 375-400 peaking at 5500 rpm (redline is 5800ish) according to the engine shop. With a T-5 and 3.55's with trac lock in the back I think she will be doing alright going down the road. I know trac lock isn't the strongest but it's better than nothing. I'll take pics when I get the block back. With this set up I can run 87 octane with no issues at all. When she's all back together I'll have to put it on the dyno just because I'm curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Almost done with the engine. The timing cover I have didn't have the hole for the dip stick so I'm in the process of drilling that now. Heads are RHS 200 set up for roller lifters. Comp ultra gold roller rockers and I will attempt to make the old valve covers fit by cutting the top portion off and welding a 1" strip all the way around. If that doesn't work then edelbrock tall aluminum valve covers will go on to finish things off. For some reason I can't load pics right now. I'll give it a shot later

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Almost done with the engine. The timing cover I have didn't have the hole for the dip stick so I'm in the process of drilling that now. Heads are RHS 200 set up for roller lifters. Comp ultra gold roller rockers and I will attempt to make the old valve covers fit by cutting the top portion off and welding a 1" strip all the way around. If that doesn't work then edelbrock tall aluminum valve covers will go on to finish things off. For some reason I can't load pics right now. I'll give it a shot later

 

If you look around, you can find Ford Racing polished aluminum valve covers for a hundred bucks. eBay sometimes has pretty good deals too. Keep up the good work, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.

Bossed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...