Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted April 2, 2009 I know you are on a tight budget but let me suggest a very good way to spend $100+, get an AMK master body kit. As opposed to trying to clean and freshen all that old hardware which no matter what will never look right when everything else is bright and shiny and then trying to figure out where what wasn't or couldn't be bagged and tagged goes, this will save you so much more time, money and frustration in the end. Everything comes pre labeled in little bags exactly where it goes and is pretty much idiot proof. They make these kits for just about every section and most of them are real cheap, I think I paid less than $20 for the master interior kit as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted April 3, 2009 Just ordered the master body kit, thanks for the suggestion. Now I have to put my self on spending restriction so I can afford the media blasting and sheetmetal work.:scared: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted April 3, 2009 Just ordered the master body kit, thanks for the suggestion. Now I have to put my self on spending restriction so I can afford the media blasting and sheetmetal work.:scared: LOL, sorry about that, but you'll be more than glad in the end even if you have to eat bologna and spaghetti for the next month or so.:blink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) Just dropped the car off to get blasted. It won't get done until next week. I'll post pics when I get some. Does anyone know if house of color paints are any good? Edited April 13, 2009 by jnet4jt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) Just dropped the car off to get blasted. It won't get done until next week. I'll post pics when I get some. Does anyone know if house of color paints are any good? Edited April 13, 2009 by jnet4jt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted April 8, 2009 "House of Kolor" makes great products, especially their "Kandy" Urethanes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted April 8, 2009 "House of Kolor" makes great products, especially their "Kandy" Urethanes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) well they didn't touch my car eeven after about 6 weeks so i picked it back up. striping it myself a pice at a time. Does anyone know if i could just weld the crack on the roof shown in the picture. Also what's the best way to remove surface rust on the inside of the sheetmetal. Oh and it is rusted behind the crack in the A-pillar Thanks Edited June 26, 2009 by jnet4jt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Legion 10 Report post Posted June 26, 2009 It's actually the seam, not a crack. The a-pillar meets the roof panel and is welded together to form that joint. It was originally filled with lead. You can fill it in with All Metal and sand it to get the final shape. In regards to rust inside the a-pillar...only one way to get to it to do it right in my opinion, and that 's to take the skin off the inside of the door jam, remove the rust, rust proof and prime. I'm actually in that stage now...I'm heading out on vacation for two weeks but hope to post some pics before I leave. You can PM me and I can send you a few pics of where I'm at. What started out as repairing the door post turned into fabbing up the majority of the post, bottom end of the a-pillar and the inside cowl panel. You could probably get away with using a long tip spray nozel and spray rust converter and sealer into the a-pillar...but I just couldn't bring myself to do it not knowing if all the metal was completely covered inside the pillar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 Well i finally did the CSRP disk brake swap. Looks good but I won't know how well they'll work for a while. Does anyone have any experence with using them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikem 13 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 Kinda hard to give detailed advice when we don't know what your plan is. Advice can be different for fixing those cracks and other issues depending on if your going for a concours or show car restoration verses a 1/4 mile asphalt eater. So, tell us, what is your plan and vision for this car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 Sorry about that, I'm not going for concourse or anything like that. I'm trying to build a very solid and reliable daily driver. With that said I'm willing to take a little more time and build something that is going to last long enough for me to pass it on to my boys (if they can figure out how to share it, I couldn't), they're 2 and 4 yrs old. I live in the Florida panhandle and were close to the water and all the humidity. As for the performance, I have a crate 302 that came with the car and the fresh c4 (fresh meaning it has hardley any miles on it). The engine was ordered to match the original 302 to the best of my knowledge. Not looking for a tire shreading monster or anything close to that. Going to run the 302 for as long as it will last, then rebuild it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 New inner fender aprons get here tomorrow. Anyone ever replaced them as LH and RH assemblies? How'd it go? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burn 14 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 Buy a media blasting cabinet if you dont already have one. I spent hour and hours blasting old parts with mine. Also, after blasting, clean and prime or paint right away! I cant tell you how many times I didnt do this and the parts rusted and I had to blast them all over again. Restore as many original parts that you can...it will save you $$$ and nothing fits better than original parts. I'm happy you didn't get your car media blasted. I did and had a hell of a time blowing out all the media of the main body (the other body parts werent too bad). If I do another project I'll use paint stripper and then a DA sander. Have you decided on a color yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 Yes I have done the inner aprons on mine, its No sweat, just cut it out with either a grinder or other saw, leaving your self about an inch all the way around, then get in there with your spot weld cutter and drill welds, and air hammer what you cant find....Clean it , prime it and weld it back in, its easy breezy i would only do one at a time tho not both at once :P Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 when you say assembly are you talking the aprons/shock tower type of assembly? or are you just talking about replacing an apron both sides? i don't support air chisels. they can make a serious mess of your "good" metal if you're not extremely careful. take your time in removing the old stuff. you can use a grinder to grind off the head of a spot weld as well. make measurements before you start. vertical, length, diagonal, as many as possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 They are the all three sections that come as a one piece welded assembly. The old ones have been (like the rest of the car) poorly repaired, cracked and warped from fender benders. The wife wants me to have it painted black. as far as the drive train goes I just acquired a 351w to swap out the old 302 with. And I am replacing the C4 with a T5, but that will be a few years down the road. I'm not too sure about how strait everything is. The front valence was bent to make the mounting holes line up. I'm thinking I will start with the LH side due to the fact that the passenger side side cowl and rocker pnl were hit in an accident and never repaired so they rusted through. not to mention I can stick my finger through both torque boxes up front. Does anyone know of any place to get measurements from for the fender aprons? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 Hey buckeye how did you do the sub frame connectors? Turned out awesome. Also I was wondering, since nothing seemed to line up right when I pulled everything apart if there was a way I could double check all the angles and placement of the sheet metal I will be replacing to make sure everything was correct? I just don't want the nose of the car pointing in a different direction that the car is going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burn 14 Report post Posted July 6, 2010 This post may help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showpost.php?p=59856&postcount=8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted July 6, 2010 awesome thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 6, 2010 Hey buckeye how did you do the sub frame connectors? with a lot of work... pics are here. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/subframe%20connectors/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted February 15, 2011 Ok, I've got a question. After removing the lh fender apron I have decided to swap out the cowl, firewall, the whole floor pan, both torque boxes, fender aprons and rh side cowl. The floor pan I will be ordering is the one piece stamped floor pan from firewall to transition pan. Anyone have any suggestions where to start? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted August 11, 2011 Ok, after being able to put in only 1.5 hrs of work on the stang this year I broke down and sent her to Lawless Hotrods in Pensacola, FL. Just can't take having her just sit in the garage. Here's a couple pics. Cant wait to see what she looks like when i ge back from yet another deployment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted August 11, 2011 Ok, after being able to put in only 1.5 hrs of work on the stang this year I broke down and sent her to Lawless Hotrods in Pensacola, FL. Just can't take having her just sit in the garage. Here's a couple pics. Cant wait to see what she looks like when i ge back from yet another deployment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted August 11, 2011 nice progress!!!! baby steps!! looking good!!:gunsmilie: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
