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6T9rustang

1969 Mach 1 Restomod Downunder

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Nice scotch!

 

 

he he! Mr Dimples said, "Celebrations are in order!"

 

 

 

I think my headache has finally subsided now.:sleep1:.

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The body didn't seem to hide any major problems, the trunk floor will be removed tomorrow so I should have some pics of that. Once the new trunk floor goes in then the new wheel tubs can be shaped to fit the 18x11s going on the rear.:whistling:

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I found these pics of 315s on a 17x10.5 with 6.85bs(1.10" offset wheel). Pick number 4 is a 18x10 295s with 6.375 and 1/8 spacer.

You can see with the leaf spring out of the equasion, Even BIGGER RUBBER is possible. Wish me luck! I will keep you all posted.

 

Any more info on where these pictures came from? I was planning on going with 9.5" in the back but if 10 or even 10.5 is possible with stock fender wells, I'm all for it and I'll buy accordingly. I'd love to have wide tires like that in the rear.

 

Do you know what this guy's ride height is set at? I have 5 leaf reverse eye springs on my car with Global West Del-A-Lum bushings, I'm guessing I may sit a little lower than this car. I don't want to modify the sheetmetal outside of rolling the fender lips, do you know if that's possible?

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The picture of the 315/35/17's on the blue car is mine. You will have to massage the inner fenderwell in the front in order for the tires to fit. I haven't yet rolled the fender lips but will be doing it soon. I am using a VV Cobra brake kit which spaces the rear wheels out 0.4375" on each side to enable you to use the SN95 wheels with there respective backspacing. The rear leafs are regular eyes and stock far as I know. I will be lowering the rear down some though. Hope this helps you.

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That's a huge help, I was afraid this was a random picture with no more background info!

 

When you say "massage the inner fenderwell", how much are you talking? And are you just beating it in with a hammer or do you have a more civilized method? Do you have any pictures of the work you did?

 

Right now I have the stock drums but I intend on running 04 Cobra discs with a kit like Mustang Steve's, but I'll probably make my own. From what I've read these don't change the axle width much but I'm going with custom wheels (Work VS-XX) so I'll have the proper offset.

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Gorgeous, truely a piece of art.

Do not forget to post up some numbers for us.

There is nothing like a big inch small block, way to go.:biggrin:

 

 

Her first day on the dyno with a carby and a very rich mix, came up with

690hp/590tq@6700rpm and was well on the way up before we shut her down to check the bearings and start to set up the injection. She pulled over 520tq at 4100rpm.:scared: She has been built to spin to 8000rpm/max. I will keep ya's posted with the final result with injection.

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That is just sweet! Wow.

Our builds will be much along the same lines, FAB9 and all. Mine is street/road race, not drag though. I'm going with a 8.2" deck 363 stroker (DART) with single turbo. Big Stuff 3 ECU and BBK SSI-R manifold.

Very interested in your tranny setup! TKO600 is advertised at 600 ft.lb. but you'll be exceeding that and even tearing it up at the strip, witch I wont. Tell me more! I'm looking into expensive T-56's, GF-5R's etc and not enjoying the costs!

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I,m hearing you on the cost! No funny! Budget?!! What budget?!:scared:

I had my box strengthened by these guys.

www.promotionpowertrain.com Have a chat with these guys, they built the boxes for the record holding cars with stick shifts. I have read that the TKOs handle well over their rating. I had the box blueprinted, the gears cryo-treated(hardened),heavy duty shift pins, a front bearing girdle fitted to stop the box trying to seperate(split) at the front casing. I had the shift folks polished for quicker changes. I purchased the box from them and after the work they sent it to NPD (Florida) where JT had it put on a pallet with some mustang body parts and sent downunder.

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Her first day on the dyno with a carby and a very rich mix, came up with

690hp/590tq@6700rpm and was well on the way up before we shut her down to check the bearings and start to set up the injection. She pulled over 520tq at 4100rpm.:scared: She has been built to spin to 8000rpm/max. I will keep ya's posted with the final result with injection.

 

Now that is bad ass, great job!

Keep the info coming.

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Talked to Promotion Powertrain and also researched them (pro-touring.com etc) and they certainly seem to know what they are doing. I'm making room in the budget :hammer: for one of their T56's. Thanks for the tip :thumbup1: Rockland Std Gear and G-Force have similar offerings but most people seem to use P.P.

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Chassis has been boxed for extra strength and the new cross/shock mount brace is welded in. Bump stops have been moved from outside the rail to the inside so the new mini-tubbs can go flush with the rail. (nice and wide)smash.gif

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Got a question for you, how did your cross/shock mount brace fit? I'm at the same point you are as far as installing the cross brace and rear transition pan. The cross brace seems to be about a little over an 1/8th inch short on both sides meeting the frame rails. I can squeeze them to together with locking pliers and get damn close, but i don't want to distort the position of the rails themselves. I bought the transition pan for CJ Pony Parts, I'm sure it's stamped overseas, where did you get yours?

 

The bad part is I bought the transition pan and the cross brace was welded to it, I had drill out the spot welds (48 to be exact) to separate the two to install it...what a pain in the arse!

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Got a question for you, how did your cross/shock mount brace fit? I'm at the same point you are as far as installing the cross brace and rear transition pan. The cross brace seems to be about a little over an 1/8th inch short on both sides meeting the frame rails. I can squeeze them to together with locking pliers and get damn close, but i don't want to distort the position of the rails themselves. I bought the transition pan for CJ Pony Parts, I'm sure it's stamped overseas, where did you get yours?

 

The bad part is I bought the transition pan and the cross brace was welded to it, I had drill out the spot welds (48 to be exact) to separate the two to install it...what a pain in the arse!

 

I got mine from NPD Florida. The brace DID come separate to my transition pan. I purchased the complete transition/trunk floor and skirts as one very large piece which WILL need to be separated but will come apart quite easily to fit in the rear. didn't have any length issues with the cross/shock brace.

Although, I did have problems when I went to fit my Three link. The shock brace they supply to bolt to my cross/shock brace was an incorrect angle. The guy from RRS said that the dynacorn units are stamped different to factory!!! What brand is yours?

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What brand is the cross brace? Not sure, but ordered it through CJ Pony Parts...box said stamped in Taiwan I believe. Maybe I misled you on my previous statement by saying I was in the same position you were, not at the point of purchasing a 3 or4 link setup...yet.

 

Out of curiosity, what is the measurement from frame rail to frame rail just behind your cross brace (now bump stops since you've moved them in). I'm wondering If I may be suffering from a little sag of the car. I had cut most of the rear end of the car out and unfortunately due to some work issues didn't get braces welded in until about 1 to 1.5 weeks later.

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What brand is the cross brace? Not sure, but ordered it through CJ Pony Parts...box said stamped in Taiwan I believe. Maybe I misled you on my previous statement by saying I was in the same position you were, not at the point of purchasing a 3 or4 link setup...yet.

 

Out of curiosity, what is the measurement from frame rail to frame rail just behind your cross brace (now bump stops since you've moved them in). I'm wondering If I may be suffering from a little sag of the car. I had cut most of the rear end of the car out and unfortunately due to some work issues didn't get braces welded in until about 1 to 1.5 weeks later.

That was the first thing i thought might have happenned (sagging) with your car. I'm out of town right now but wednesday next week i can have a measure up.

ANYBODY ELSE HAVE MEASUREMENTS OF THE CHASSIS WIDTH FROM INSIDE OF right RAIL TO inside of left RAIL at the area where the cross /shock brace welds to the rails?

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