cphsonic

*** SOLD *** Item Location (City/State): CA, San Diego Trades considered (Mustang, Falcon, Maverick, ...?) 740hk 363 smallblock w/single turbo, 6-speed manual, best of everything in suspension, driveline, brakes, interior, electronics, ICE etc. http://www.omg-e.com/GT2/ for all details and photos. http://www.pmautos.com/auto/?auto=1969-ford-mustang- for contact info

Now 98% complete. Price on request. http://www.omg-e.com/GT2/

First test drive. Still 10-15 small things on the to-do list, then cut & polish, pinstriping and C-stripes. Drives like a rocket on rails though! Don't forget to set it to 1080p HD

Beautiful dream, but you can't operate it on foreign plates for more than 3 months. Then it's Danish registration and $$. And I could ship it in without the turbo, tranny, big brakes etc and remount everything later, but at next inspection I'd have to do it again. And the tax man sometimes shows up at car shows to spot check on just that = full registration + a huge fine. Believe me, I've dreamt through all possibilities! :shifty:

Final push to the finish. Just a few details and cut & polish missing now. And still for sale. Late Christmas present to your self? :poke:

I don't mind at all ;) The bug green version would certainly light up my driveway but it's too harsh for a classic. Leave that to the imports that go pfftt! I like the black and gold a LOT!

Typical California to Northern Europe is $1600-2500 depending on size of car and what's included like customs clearance, insurance, port handling, pick-up & drop-off etc. The cheapest is if you drop off at the shipping terminal and pick up at the terminal in the other end. Also if you handle all the customs clearance at your end. I'm guessing AUS to CA would be about the same?

Agree, not near enough BS on either. Check this fairly safe guide as a starting point: http://www.nzmustang.com/TechData/wheels_and_tyres.htm

Went for a car PC a few years back when the ITX motherboards became fast enough. The heater controls were fairly accessible but by feel only.But the PC was killer: nav, mp3's, wireless internet etc.

Hej Kaspar His weight has no influence, maybe only to the positive side. Less slippage on the rollers. Who are you using? If the max torque and max HP has already happened by 5000 there is no reason at all to go higher. You wont be driving at that RPM. Nice looking coupe! mvh Hans

Wow good numbers. No port matching or anything, just bolt on? What cam is it and how does the torque curve look?

Hurts like seeing someone getting kicked in the balls. :helpsmilie:There should be a warning on the thread "contains disturbing images likely to cause distress"

Been years since I had a bumper off. Vaguely remember a bumper bracket here? Check NPD, CJ or someone elses online catalog with exploded views.

I've always wanted to try it but the right backspacing and width wasn't available. Seems choices are better now, watching this space. :thumbup1:

For the basic rear I would go 5-leaf reverse eye (well, you already went for 4½ so...) and HD shackles & Delrin/POM bushings as a must, and maybe a panhard bar. You want lateral control first of all, so I wouldn't worry about torque arm, multilink etc. with the braking performance and power you have right now. 69's generally don't need a rear swaybar but it doesn't hurt either. Oh, and as I just noticed you have a Trac-Loc plate diff you might also want to put a torsen type diff (Truetrac etc.) on your wish list somewhere down the line. You'll be amazed at the difference out of tight corners (ie. parking lot racing). Like: http://www.moserengineering.com/differentials/ford-9-inch-rear-31-spline-913a586.html or http://pitstopusa.com/i-5084463-torsen-gleason-ford-9-differential-31-spline.html