fvike

Thanks! I needed that too today

The map light doubles as the glovebox light. There is a pressure switch in the glovebox, so that it lights when opened. On the underside of the clock panel, there is a swich to light it with the glovebox closed. This is the map light function.

The map light doubles as the glovebox light. There is a pressure switch in the glovebox, so that it lights when opened. On the underside of the clock panel, there is a swich to light it with the glovebox closed. This is the map light function.

Got a cat fight on our hands?? :tongue_smilie: Heheh... Well, here are my two cents; I have a '69 Mach 1 clone, full tilt Pro-Touring, minus my FMX tranny. It was delivered from factory as a plain jane 351-2v red SportsRoof with those ugly 5-star wheel covers. If I restored it to stock, it would be worth less money than today. At car meets, people wouldn't look twice at it because it isn't a Mach 1, or a Boss. Only the hi-option cars are given respect. Hell, I sometimes get crap from people because it isn't a real Mach 1. And they never know until I tell them, because I have never tried to pass it as a real Mach 1. It was that way when I got it, and I like it, so I never changed it. However, I like looking at superrestored cars. I can appreciate the time and effort it goes into restoring and maintaining a car like that. And the first thing I read in Mustang Monthly is Resto Roundup by Bob Perkins. I love reading those letters. I have modified most of my car, but I try to keep it stock looking, save the wheels and brakes. It's the concourse cars that tells us how these cars were like new, and are becoming refrence points for all the hobby. And there are enough cars out there to have both trends. And that's also what these cars were about, induviduality. But, I have to admit, I don't like to see a hacked up car. Like Pro-Street cars with no back seat, and all minitubs. Or roofchopped cars.

Got a cat fight on our hands?? :tongue_smilie: Heheh... Well, here are my two cents; I have a '69 Mach 1 clone, full tilt Pro-Touring, minus my FMX tranny. It was delivered from factory as a plain jane 351-2v red SportsRoof with those ugly 5-star wheel covers. If I restored it to stock, it would be worth less money than today. At car meets, people wouldn't look twice at it because it isn't a Mach 1, or a Boss. Only the hi-option cars are given respect. Hell, I sometimes get crap from people because it isn't a real Mach 1. And they never know until I tell them, because I have never tried to pass it as a real Mach 1. It was that way when I got it, and I like it, so I never changed it. However, I like looking at superrestored cars. I can appreciate the time and effort it goes into restoring and maintaining a car like that. And the first thing I read in Mustang Monthly is Resto Roundup by Bob Perkins. I love reading those letters. I have modified most of my car, but I try to keep it stock looking, save the wheels and brakes. It's the concourse cars that tells us how these cars were like new, and are becoming refrence points for all the hobby. And there are enough cars out there to have both trends. And that's also what these cars were about, induviduality. But, I have to admit, I don't like to see a hacked up car. Like Pro-Street cars with no back seat, and all minitubs. Or roofchopped cars.

I took it easy too. - Swapped front VariShocks that was damaged, got new from TCP under warranty - Installed new parking brake cabels for the Wilwood rear brakes - A real good cleaning of the interior, polished it too. Still to do before it hits the road: - Connect new parking brake cables to the foot brake pedal (LOL - yeah I know, I know...):tongue_smilie: - Install bump steer kit - Install new aluminum radiator - Install stiffer springs on the rear coilovers Stuff I wish I had done: - Should have fixed that minor rust under the driver footwell - Should have raised the exhaust tips location

I took it easy too. - Swapped front VariShocks that was damaged, got new from TCP under warranty - Installed new parking brake cabels for the Wilwood rear brakes - A real good cleaning of the interior, polished it too. Still to do before it hits the road: - Connect new parking brake cables to the foot brake pedal (LOL - yeah I know, I know...):tongue_smilie: - Install bump steer kit - Install new aluminum radiator - Install stiffer springs on the rear coilovers Stuff I wish I had done: - Should have fixed that minor rust under the driver footwell - Should have raised the exhaust tips location

I got the TCP Subframe connector system, and a Monte Carlo bar, and an export brace. I'm running a 1 1/8" front swaybar. The difference is amazing. When I jack up the car at a rear wheel, the front wheel at the same side comes up too, and also the other rear wheel when I jack high enough.

I got the TCP Subframe connector system, and a Monte Carlo bar, and an export brace. I'm running a 1 1/8" front swaybar. The difference is amazing. When I jack up the car at a rear wheel, the front wheel at the same side comes up too, and also the other rear wheel when I jack high enough.

About the Hydraboost: I installed it and the front 13" brakes at the same time. I went with that system because I kenw I would be adding big brake at the rear later, and I wanted a firm pedal. Because of this, I also got the biggest bore Wilwood Master Cylinder, because a power brake system needs this. A to small MC would make the pedal to sensitive. If you decide to run the brakes manually, you need a lesser bore MC, so that the pedal doesn't get to firm. If you have to large bore MC on manual brakes, you won't have the leg power to push all that fluid around. The Hydraboost delivers somewhere around 1300 psi of pressure. Steven Rupp runs 13" Wilwood brakes front and rear on his Bad Penny Camaro. He runs them manual, and I think he has the smallest Wilwood MC. And he's happy with it. The thing about the Hydraboost, is that it gives a very firm pedal. It's just like a modern car. At the race track, I had firm dependable brakes lap after lap. Having experienced stock brakes on the racetrack, the difference is unbelivable! My advice is, just get on the track as soon as you can, and the cars flaws wil reveal themselves. Chassis stiffening is the key factor. Without it, the suspension won't work. The cornering ability of these cars originaly wasn't all that, so I now have coilovers on all corners, and a power rack & pinion. All the suspension and cornering abilities in the world won't matter if you can't stop it, so brakes needs to be upgraded. You want power on the straights, so you need a strong engine, and rear end gears that gives you acceleration out of the corners, not top speed. I run 3.70 gears in a Detroit True-Trac diff for the grip. So basicly, when you fix one problem, you discover another. It's a fun game!:tongue_smilie: You basicly find yourself upgrading the whole car. I have no stock parts in my steering, brakes and suspenison, and few in the engine too! Hope I helped!

About the Hydraboost: I installed it and the front 13" brakes at the same time. I went with that system because I kenw I would be adding big brake at the rear later, and I wanted a firm pedal. Because of this, I also got the biggest bore Wilwood Master Cylinder, because a power brake system needs this. A to small MC would make the pedal to sensitive. If you decide to run the brakes manually, you need a lesser bore MC, so that the pedal doesn't get to firm. If you have to large bore MC on manual brakes, you won't have the leg power to push all that fluid around. The Hydraboost delivers somewhere around 1300 psi of pressure. Steven Rupp runs 13" Wilwood brakes front and rear on his Bad Penny Camaro. He runs them manual, and I think he has the smallest Wilwood MC. And he's happy with it. The thing about the Hydraboost, is that it gives a very firm pedal. It's just like a modern car. At the race track, I had firm dependable brakes lap after lap. Having experienced stock brakes on the racetrack, the difference is unbelivable! My advice is, just get on the track as soon as you can, and the cars flaws wil reveal themselves. Chassis stiffening is the key factor. Without it, the suspension won't work. The cornering ability of these cars originaly wasn't all that, so I now have coilovers on all corners, and a power rack & pinion. All the suspension and cornering abilities in the world won't matter if you can't stop it, so brakes needs to be upgraded. You want power on the straights, so you need a strong engine, and rear end gears that gives you acceleration out of the corners, not top speed. I run 3.70 gears in a Detroit True-Trac diff for the grip. So basicly, when you fix one problem, you discover another. It's a fun game!:tongue_smilie: You basicly find yourself upgrading the whole car. I have no stock parts in my steering, brakes and suspenison, and few in the engine too! Hope I helped!

Mike, I run Wilwood 13" brakes front and back. Love them! They are both 4 piston calipers, and GT rotors (sliced, not drilled). On the racetrack they performed flawlessly with the hydraboost setup. I had so much braking-power that the track tech guy came over to me and told me my pads were gone because sparkles was shooting out of my wheels. I had lots of pad left. It was only the bi-metallic pads that did their job. :rolleyes:

I think this is true. My early '69 Fastback (build date Dec. 26, 1968) has both pot metal QP extensions. My friend's '70 Mach 1 has both fiberglass.

Posting this on other forums I frequent...

I think the engine size may be cast onto the block in the lifter valley. Not sure if it does on 302s and 289s, but it is on my 351W.

Roflcopter!!!

And here is proof! Here you can see the engine is clearly in the car when I'm working on it. I had to replace the rod bearings because I stupidly had misplaced the oil pump gasket when installing it, so it blocked the passage into the block. Don't do that when you inpect the oil pump!!

Love the green '70 Mach 1! Post up more pictures if you have'em please!:drool:

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/93/Engines%20&%20Components/post/1434450/ROUSH-YATES-ENGINES.html It's $14,000 I've seen Dodge R5/P7 for half that money.

I'd keep my eyes on ebay and http://www.racingjunk.com/

Niiiice! Just have those $$$$ ready when the old engines starts to flood the market. Mopar guys are picking up Dodge R5/P7 NASCAR engines dirt cheap after the introduction of the R6/P8.

That's just the right way to sell a car!!! :tt1:

Just my 2c (where's the 2 cent smilie?).. When I did the rear brakes, I got much more even braking force, front and rear. The car doesn't dive anymore, but just nicely and evenly comes to a stop. That is a noteable difference when braking in corners or bends. Feels much safer. But that was for my application, using 13" disks. I don't know if that is the case with stock brakes, if that is what you are running.

Nice video! They're driving the "barn" Mustang in the 1995 sequence. It has big wheels, but no rear louvres. It also doesn't have the horse in the grille.

Since my last post on this tread, I've upgraded the rear drums to 13" Wilwoods, so there are 13" discs on all corners now. All I had to do was adjust the brake pressure valve that I had installed for the rear brakes. The pedal is still firm. Even at road course use, I never experienced fading, going deep into the corners. I just have massive, reliable stopping power now. Best mod I ever did to my car. Here's some pictures: