Jayru

I disagree. Yes, your right that eBay isn't the one doing the undervaluing, the bidders are (i should have been more clear with my original statement). But look at any other car market, forum, website, where classics are sold. The prices the cars sell for are always 25-35% higher than the lowballers on eBay.

I used a generic Ford mount 100 amp (1 wire) from Summit and have been very pleased with it! Almost three years now and no issues whatsoever.

JSWORKS.ORG - Racing is Expen$ive! Some pics & description of my old fox body Mustang in the post, so at least it"s Mustang related ;-) Thanks again for the support!

Where are you looking for "the market" you speak of? Places like eBay always undervalue classics if you ask me (unless it's a really rare car). That being said though, with the economy being down, stuff isn't selling for what it used to. I was at Barrett Jackson Vegas in September and they were giving cars away! Stuff that should of went for $25-30K was going for $15K It's a bad time to sell.

Two questions for you. What exactly is the rust fighter? Is it a rust converting seam sealer of sorts? Also, i tried to buff out a spot on my stainless hood trim molding once (using methods like you described), and i was shocked when a little fine sanding (2000 grit) seemed to scratch away the color and expose a white/grey substrate (almost like an aluminum base) that would not buff out! It was permanently scratched from that point on. Have you ever had this happen? I've been paranoid to ever try and touch the moldings again!

Wow! This site has been great to me in so many ways over the years. And I'm humbled by the show of support! Thank you!

Thanks Pak! Yes, I was originally right handed. But I was very lucky in that I adapted quickly to using the left. The Doctors felt I was most likely ambidextrous and just didn't know it! Most people need up to a year or more of physical/occupational therapy after a loss of a limb - I was out within a month. Again, very fortunate i was able to adapt so quickly. I also have all of my arm down to my wrist, so I'm really able to get a lot of use out of my right arm. It's why I've been able to do so many things. Again, just lucky! New blog post up - Rebirth! - http://www.jsworks.org Enjoy! Thanks for the support guys!

Thank YOU! It's much appreciated!

Fellow 69stang.com members, I know this is a Mustang forum, but I thought I'd post this here as we're all "car guys" in a general sense. The Mustang's been in hibernation for the winter (and mostly finished for now), so I've started on a new project. A 300zx Twin Turbo (road race) track car! Some may remember I acquired the car from my cousin a while back after a nasty wreck. I've recently launched a new website/blog to chronicle my 300zx track build - also chronicling a Documentary film I'm producing/directing about amputees pursuing their dreams. I'm a Documentary Film editor by trade, and an amputee myself, so the subject is near and dear to me. I'm also an avid car guy, and have built/raced various cars over the years. I hope to inspire fellow amputees (and able-bodied people alike) to make the most of life and follow their dreams despite limitations. Info about the Documentary, 300zx build, Mustang, & myself can be found here: http://www.jsworks.org/ I'll be updating the site regularly, and have a bunch of back dated posts to write up to get me to the point I'm currently at in the build. And don't worry, the Stang will make many appearances on the site! As a matter of fact, the trailer I'm putting together for the film will have a lot of the Mustang in it as it was filmed before i acquired the Z. Please take a look around the site and feel free to pass/post the URL along on other forums, facebook, twitter, etc. Any questions/comments are welcome. And i can be reached at jsworks.blog@gmail.com for questions regarding the documentary, blog, and build. Thanks! Jason Schneider (Jayru)

Be careful! Didn't someone on here have tuns of issues with the Borgeson and could never get it to track right or return to center correctly??

Car is definitely pre 89 because of the T-Tops. Most likely an LX to GT conversion (bumpers and ground effects). You can see there's no provisions/brackets for the fog lights, just two big open holes. LX has no ground effects/fog lights. Tale a look at the dash if you can, 87-89 cars were rare with T-Tops, but the 86 and under had more T-Top models made. It's popular to swap all the post 87 (when ford changed the nose & rear quarter windows to what you have there) parts onto an 86 & older to get the T-Tops. If you have a boxy dash that's flat for the gauge face, it's pre 87 (86 and older), if the dash is a bit rounder with the gauges packaged in a raised house looking thing off the dash, it's an 87 and up.

Loop looks fantastic! I'll probably have to modify my tin man one like that if I ever change exhaust.

Been thinking about this thread for the past few days, I don't think you should limit yourself to stuff that isn't produced yet. The quality of many repro parts is horrible! My car came with quite a few repro parts like moldings, door sills, etc. they don't fit right and are so paper thin they dent/bend if you even look at them! Another example is the E-Brake mechanism. Mine was broken so I bought a repro one. The release handle was in the wrong spot (could kick it while using the clutch), the pad was completely wrong, and it was so cheap it broke after 2 weeks! Had to get an original from someone here on the board to make it right. I think if you created a superior quality product compared to what is out there, people would be willing to pay a little extra for it!

Who makes the gauges you installed in the factory cluster? Sharp!

+1 for a new coupe side scoop - really want a rear wing for the coupe too. Something like the Anvil sportsroof one but for coupes. Been thinking of trying to design one myself actually since there's nothing else out there besides the whale tale Shelby one.

I'm taking a welding class at the local VoTec this month, a kid in my class has the 2012 GT - very nice looking car (taillights grew on me too) with lots of power (he took me for a ride), but I'm not a fan of the sound. He's got an aftermarket exhaust with headers on it and it sounds like a raspy V6! I thought he had just stuck 5.0 badges on a V6 at first. The classics and fox body 5.0's just sound sooooo much better (like a real mustang should).

Look forward to seeing it in the spring since our fall cruise never happened! Lol

Is it possible to shave the one you have now down? Maybe take 1.5-2" out of it and re-glass in mounting bolts?

Looking great dude!! Ditch that scoop though, looks ridiculous. It just grabs too much attention, you don't end up looking at anything else but that massive scoop!

Finally got a chance to take a few photo's of the installed subframe connectors and driveshaft loop. Sorry for the loooong delay, i decided to re-do/insulate my garage this summer and it ended up being a much longer project than expected! Luckily my fiancé's parents were nice enough to let me keep the stang in their garage while i completed the work. One pic i couldn't get to come out right was where you cut the rail open. The Tin Man directions said to just open up the rail to the top, which would have left a gap on the top and sides where trash could get in. We decided to measure exactly and make the opening flush to the connectors, so it's nice/tight, cleaner looking, and also allows you to weld up the connectors 3 sides around the rail instead of just the 2 holes on the sides. You can also see how the driveshaft loop becomes a structural part of the connectors (although I'm worried it will interfere with my exhaust once i change my headers since it has to hang so low). My floors are in excellent shape with just a little surface rust, so i decided to rough them up and use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator paint on the whole floor since i had to paint the connectors anyway (and it can be painted over rust/non rust alike). Came out great i think! Need to coat the internal bits with an internal frame coating, but temps dropped to cold to paint, so looks like i'll wait for spring to do that. Not sure why the pics are coming up upside down, they're correct on my computer. Hopefully you get the idea!

Just want to throw out my 2 cents... I replaced my whole front suspension 2 years ago (sans steering box), cost was around $1200. My steering is 100% better than the 40 yr old stock stuff that was in there, and I sprang for roller perches & roller idler arm, I think they greatly improved the ride over the factory rubber. Having said all that... My steering still feels like shit compared to a newer car. I still have play (and my steering box is greased and adjusted properly). For me, it makes the car unenjoyable unless your just driving in a straight line. I plan to do rack and pinion in the spring. Spend the money now and have great modern handling, instead of just a little bit better 1969 handling.

I paid $7500 for a real looker that died 20 min after buying it and what I later found out was held together with bubble gum and duct tape. $20K later and I have a nice car, but it's far from perfect. Unless you're a millionaire, you'll never achieve/buy perfection... You have two choices, fix what you have or cut your loses and sell. I often wonder if I would have been happier if I just lost a few grand instead of sinking $13k into the car (and still just having an average car). But if your budget is under $10k for a base car, you'll buy another one and it'll be in the same if not worse shape that you have now. I can almost guarantee it! Good luck!