Angel

I like!

Looks great!

Car looks great! What are your plans for the fuel return system?

Congratulations. I recognized it right away when I received it over the week end.

Nice car! More details please.

That looks like a 427 SOHC engine to me. Nice!!

If you want the sound, then go with the 14". Smaller mufflers will usually be louder than larger versions.

You won't be disappointed with the RC kit. Do you already have an engine? I just happen to be selling a wrecked 2007 GT500. Car has 16k miles. The car was in a roll over so the body is toast. Drivetrain is fine though. I'll try to update my thread soon.

Looks great man!

I think the aod-e will bolt right up the v10. The aod might have the same bolt pattern but I'm not sure. The 4r70w should bolt on as well. All three are very similar. I'm sure you know the differences like stronger internals and being electronically controlled.

I bought a 2011 gt500 engine and trans for my coupe. I had thought about selling the '03 cobra engine and using the Shelby until I made some measurements. The 5.4 makes the 4.6 look small! IIrc, the 5.4 is about two inches wider and taller. This was a deal breaker since I didn't want to buy a cowl hood. The tr6060 is about the same size as the t56 so the work involved there would have been about the same. I would definitely recommend a suspension that removes the towers. It can be done with them, but the engine will fit very tight. Fatman fabrications stuffed a 5.4 into their mustang using their strut style front end. It looks like it just barely fit.

Car is coming along nicely!

Honestly, the R&C kit was much easier to install than I had anticipated. I found that you can use the original sway bar bracket to locate the m2 crossmember. Ofcourse I measured everything about 20 times before finally welding things in place. The r&c kit comes with clear instructions and even a DVD of the install. Willie at R&C was very helpful throughout the whole process. From purchase to install, I was able to rely on their customer support. It may not be the best suspension out there, but it is the best suspension option for me and what I want to do. I wanted a reputable suspension kit that was relatively affordable($2,635), would allow the use of a modular engine, would allow the use of a r&p, and would also allow me to use the 13" cobra brakes. Additionally, I wanted a kit that would give me plenty of room in the engine compartment. I know I might be sacrificing some performance but this car will mainly be a cruiser. I had a naturally aspirated 2001 cobra engine that I was initially going to use for this project. After doing a lot of research, I had decided to use 4.11's for that engine because that seems to be what most people agree works best with that engine. Apparently, although the cruising rpms would be higher, the engine would be in it's power band and as a result, gas mileage would actually improve. Counter intuitive, I know. But most claimed that at the very least, fuel economy would not decrease. I don't know. Anyway. I switched to the 3.25's because of the broad torque curve that the '03 engine has. It should help with traction and fuel economy. At least I hope so.

I'm using the original 9 inch. I installed cobra rear disk brakes and a posi third member with 3.25:1 gears. I'm using the stock 28 spline axles. I hope this set up holds up. If I end up breaking something, then I'll go ahead and upgrade everything and most likely narrow the housing a bit. The reason why I didn't beef everything up now is because I want to see if I'll like the gears. This will be my daily driver again so cruising rpm's are important to me.

Some more pics. If anyone wants any specific photos of something, just let me know. I know this has been done before but there is still some information that I haven't been able to find online. That kind of info will definitely be included in this thread. Rudolph Schenker is a member on here that answered a lot of my questions. His thread was very informative(link below). I would love to return the favor by helping anyone else who has questions about this kind of swap. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8636&page=27

More pics.

Ok guys. Time for an update. The rod & custom m2 kit is installed and so are the 13" cobra brakes. I used mustang steve brackets to mount the cobra calipers to the mustang 2 drop spindles. I had an issue with the mustang steve brackets because they are designed for heidts drop spindles. Steve did warn me that although they should fit, he has not tried them on all mustang 2 spindles. As a result, I had to drill an extra hole in them to match the bolt pattern on my spindles. No big deal. Steve was real helpful through it all. Im glad I didnt throw away my original drums and spindles. I had to reuse the drum hubs. A press made quick worth of separating the hubs from the drums. At first glance, I was worried that the hubs were too corroded to be used safely. I threw them in the sand blaster and thankfully, they only had surface rust. The original studs were too short so I pressed them off and replaced them with new ones from a 2001 E-series van. Steve gave me the dorman part number (610-441.1). I ended up needing 5/16" spacers to clear the calipers so the longer studs were perfect. They measure 2 3/16" in length. Stock measure 1 11/16". I also replaced the dust caps but had to grind the new ones a bit so they would fit right. I love how some paint and new studs can make old hubs look cool! Once all that stuff was on the car, I was able to install the wheels and lower the car. That's the first time its been on wheels in over two years! its nice to free up the four jack stands that were holding it up. Next was engine and trans mock up. I have an extra engine that I'm using for this. The engine slipped right in without a problem. There is plenty of room on all sides. I have read that many people have issues getting a master cylinder to fit in the stock location. I know some have even had to relocate the master about an inch closer to the inner fender. I drove the car with manual disk brakes for 5 years before the car went down. I never had a problem with the stiff pedal and I actually prefer it. So Im very happy to find out that the master cylinder clears the valve cover with no mods needed. Btw, I'm using a master cylinder from a '96 explorer. It's light weight and has the fittings on the fender side. Plus it is cheaper than a cobra master of the same year. The down side is that the cylinder bore measures slightly over 1". This might make the pedal too stiff. I'm not completely sure if I'll keep this m/c or not, but its nice to know I have the room. I knew going into this that I might have to cut and raise the trans tunnel to fit the t56. However, I was not sure how much. Some have had to raise it an inch, some have only needed to notch the tunnel support. I was able to get it in there by just cutting the tunnel support but I'm not sure if I'm satisfied with the position of the trans. The shifter hole in the floor might need to be moved about two inches forward. Im hopping not to have to raise the tunnel as it will save a lot of time but if I need to, due to drive shaft angle or clearance, then I will. Finally, I mocked up my stock hood to check the clearance under it. Surprisingly, nothing hit. But some parts are too close for comfort. The front of the supercharger has maybe an 1/8" between it and the hood. I knew the stock Idle air control valve would probably hit, and it does. I never liked how it looked on top of the inlet and thankfully, there is a clean way to relocate it. More on that when the time comes. The throttle cable bracket comes close to the stock hood as well. Not a problem for me as my fiberglass hood has a 1" scoop. So that's where I'm at. As is, I have 1/2" between the engine oil pan and steering rack. I have some polyurethane mounts that I'm going to modify to hopefully lower the engine about 3/16". I know, not much but it should help a bit. Then I can figure out what to do for a drive shaft. I might have the original shaft shortened about 2-3 inches or I might just get a custom shaft. Would the stock shaft handle a 500hp engine? I plan to use 1350 u-joints.

Congratulations man! I love lowered mustangs.

I like your approach on this. Very similar to mine. I'm sticking a 4 valve engine in my coupe and I'm doing all the work myself too. Hopefully we can share some info. I need to update my build thread.

More info on the bigger sway bar please!

I want to see this happen. Should be cool!

Would this work on cylinder heads?

Hmm. I wonder how much better this is over a conventional Granada set-up? I had the Granada brakes and they stop well for a street car.

I agree with trav. They're too tall.

Back up!