chillininnh

The Ford original tooling dash I recently installed was from Dashes Direct and it fit quite nice, I bought it from Kentucky Mustang on sale. I did have to adjust the lower dash quite a bit to get the two pieces to line up. It took quite a bit of fanagling to get everything aligned. I used a small phillips screw driver, inserting it through the cluster holes and into the clips, to gently pry it into position. Careful!!!!

I think the problem he's having is getting the shifter opening to sit properly around the automatic shift bezel. I don't think the manual console top will fit correctly around the automatic shift bezel. Perhaps it could be trimmed in some manner to work. When I was using the shelby pod the temperature control lever had to be bent upwards slightly to clear the pod.

Ditto X 2 :thumbdown: Screwed with it too much, looks ready for Fast & Furious 6.

You would be remiss to go through ALL the work to remove the evaporator without completely rebuilding while you had it out.

Ahhhhh. Now I understand. I would say yes you have a standard transmission shift bezel. The auto version is centered and the manual version opening is off-centered to the drivers side.

Auto or stick I believe all the ash trays were the same. You did remove the ash tray lid and the ash tray itself? I had installed one in my project at one point without any problem. I have since installed a new cluster. Something must be impeding it's ability to fit flush in the opening. It should sit flush with the shift plate and be secured with a screw or two from underneath. It's possible you got a bad repro too....

Thanks for the fast reply!

Does anyone know the number for the bulb that goes in the courtesy light in the door on a deluxe interior car?

Well I believe it definitely lit something and it was tied into the dimmer, thats the purpose of the blue wire with red stripe. If your heater control is not lit, that's probably where it goes.

The first pic may be the connector for a map light. The map & the clock connected together in my original harness. The blue wire with red stripe I believe is a gauge light wire.

I always thought Coz's ride had that period correct badass look. I dunno the specs but I'm sure he'd be happy to share.

Thats's a sweet fastback GT350, I'm planning on leaving mine a solid color also. The plan is to go with a Boss 429 scoop painted to match the wheels with a fender decal of the same shade entitled "BOSS 418". I like the less is more look when it comes to these cars, although the car is a real Mach 1, I wanted something different. It does feel good to prove the naysayers wrong 468Stang, I love your car BTW. Snow SUCKS!!

That is gorgeous!

If it were mine I'd go 5-speed & EFI.

3.00 or 3.25 would be my choice. I have everything you need brand new never installed for a 3.00 swap into a small bearing 31 spline 9"(purchased from Currie), let me know, could make you a solid deal.

++1

Year One.

When I stripped the car down I remember thinking if I was going to be up to the task of putting it all back together. I have a VERY limited mechanical background. No section of the car worried me more than the dash. My family was sure I was killing the car. With the exception of the radio and a few pieces of trim the dash is reassembled, and everything works!! I showed'em.....

No Z-bar Jay, I'm using a Modern Driveline clutch cable. I'm half expecting to end up with a hydraulic clutch because I am running long tube headers.......

The strut rods were part of the Ron Morris coil over kit. The car hasn't been down the road yet so I can't help you there. Everything on the car has been upgraded/refreshed since the car was last roadworthy so I'm not sure I'll recognize her lol.

I'll pass. I am going to great lengths to eliminate the wood grain treatment on the inside of my project, it is a dated look IMHO.

You hit it right on the head Mach1Rider! The Painless harness came with the tail light sockets preassembled/wired. All I had to do was push the wires out of the socket and reverse them, one more thing off the checklist!!

Do the taillight sockets ground to the housing?

I rewired the car and the lights in the rear aren't functioning properly. With the parking and or headlights on, the turn signals work only in the front. If the lights are off, the brake lights come on but they are very dim and the turn signals work fine, front & rear. When you turn on the parking/headlights, they overpower everything with their brightness, even the turn signals. I figure the brake light switch (which I reused) can't be the culprit if it operates okay when the lights are off. I'm stumped??

DTM epoxy primer topped with Eastwood chassis black. Eastwood rubberized undercoating in the wheel houses and behind the fenders and valences.