signal20gsxr

I am going to be converting from power steering to manual steering. Has anyone used the manual steering adapters? I notice that there are the ones that most mustang parts stores carry and one made by Borgeson. Either one better than the other? Or should I get a manual pitman arm and manual center link? Finally can I use a manual idler arm on a power center link if I used the adaptor? My current idler arm has the one bushing with teeth on the inner shell of the bushing to add resistance to help with return to center. I am assuming that I don't want this idler arm with manual steering. Thanks.

Manual center links are different than power so you will need a manual pitman arm to go with the manual center link. If I am not mistaken you can go about it two different ways. Buy a manual center link, manual pitman arm and manual idler arm. Or you can buy the manual adapter that screws onto your current power center link, and a manual pitman arm. I am going to get the manual adapter and idler arm to convert mine.

Thanks for the wright up. I was wanting to do the same thing with mine. I have seen them done on 65-66 cars quite a bit. These are completely flush without any trim rings. What glue did you use?

Thanks, Yeah I really don't want to put a 2 inch lowering block if I get the mid eye springs. Is there anyway that you could measure from the axle center line up to the fender at 12 o'clock? That would really help me out. I do like the Maier springs however they are just to much money for me right now. I really need to get tires and wheels on it first before I do anything. Its got 14x6 Cragar's on it now. I am wanting to go with 17x8 in the the front and 17x9 in the rear. I would like to drag race it some. So I would want to be able to throw a set of 15x8's with a 275/50-15 drag radial on it at the track. I know that I am going to have to roll the fender lips. No big deal. Just need the wheels and tires to know how much. Obviously the correct offset will help. I think a 4.5 b.s. on the front and 5 on the rear should work out pretty well. I looked at that master list that is referenced to quite a bit still don't know if a 5.5 b.s. on the rear would be better with a 9 inch wide wheel.

So like the title says I am needing to replace the rear springs on my 69 and I am not sure what ones to get. It has 620 1 inch lowering springs in the front that I cut 3/4 of a coil off. I have also done the Shelby drop as well. The front sits perfect. The rear has the stock sacked out springs currently with 1 inch lowering blocks. It sits perfect when I have a full tank of gas. When its empty its up to high. LOL. Plus they are just way to soft. I have used Global West 5 leaf lowering springs before on another car. They picked the back end up higher than the sacked out stock springs. I had to add 1 inch lowering blocks. Even then it was still to high but because of the wheel offset (not enough back space) I was not able to go any lower. I can try the mid eye but assume that I will need to add the lowering blocks I already have to them. I am concerned that the reverse eye might be to low. Don't have any idea. The front is a low as it can go. So lowering it more isn't an option. Just want to get the correct rear springs to allow the car to sit close to level. Ideally 1 to 1/2 inch higher in the rear would be perfect. I don't like the stink bug look but I also hate that low in the rear look. Anybody use either spring before that can give me some suggestions? Some measurements would be nice. Right now from the axle center line to 12 o'clock at the fender lip its 12.5 front 13.5 rear. Thanks

From everything I have read the general consensous is that most people that have used both say the A5 is stronger than the Gforce. The down side is that I have herd that the A5 set does have some wine to it because of the tooth angle. Understand that most of these people drag race fox bodies with slicks, aftermarket control arms that usually have solid bushings on one or both ends, stage 3 clutches and are making good HP and Torque. So the gears get shocked very hard. Remove one or two of above items and your eliminating a lot of stress on the gears. I put a 385HP 351w crate motor in a fox that had a standard T5 behind it and it out lasted the motor. It only had a king cobra clutch, aftermarket upper and lower control arms with poly bushings and street tires. So it just spun. I think a Gforce set would be just fine for your application. Depending on what your doing with the car a Z-spec gear set might work fine as well. Adding the clutch pedal was very easy. On mine the housings that holds the plastic/nylon bushing for the brake pedal shaft were loose in the main bracket. So I got the roller ones and tack welded them in place. The new clutch pedal comes with a new shaft. I bought a manual brake pedal pad and cut off a couple of inches off of the left side of the brake pedal so it would be the same as a brake pedal for a manual. I also cut off the bracket where the factory return spring would attach to on the new pedal. Have to do the same with an original one. Remove the rubber stop, Slide the new pivot shaft through, put the new clutch pedal on, then nut and tighten. I have used the modern driveline cable conversion on two different 69's. One was a factory 3 speed and mine which was an auto. I like it. Its cheap, (compared to a hydraulic system) and it works. Its easily adjustable. I have owned 2 fox bodies and it pretty much feels the same as them. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.

Just my 2 cents. The mod motors are big and heavy. I know the Coyote has an aluminum block so its a little lighter. It makes good HP and torque but the old 302 with EFI and H,C,I, can make the same numbers and if tuned properly can get the same mileage and be just as reliable from my experience. I have seen 5.0 Fox bodies go 200,000 miles easily. I got 18 in town and 27 hwy mileage with my 87 GT. With that being said. Putting a Coyote motor in would definitely have a cool factor. Not as much as a Kaase Boss9 IMO though. Bottom line- Its your money. Do what you want. I am sure no one is going to think its not cool. FWIW, I have been out of loop for a little while but when the crate motors came out with the control package people were having annoying driveability issues with them. Don't know if they got this figured out yet or not. Ford was blaming it on the air intake. It has to be their inlet and air box. Which I think is garbage. I do not know if there is even room for this or not in an older stang. Turners have no problems with them in the current mustangs but the control pack that Ford offers has/had a glitch someplace. What I don't like about these motors for a swap is that you can not control them with an aftermarket EFI system or tune it yourself like some OBD-II systems if your wanting to keep the Ti-VCT. So you are at the mercy of a tuner to try and get things right or throw in a set of aftermarket cams and lock them in place. Which IMO defeats the purpose and you will not get the same flat torque curve or mileage.

My car had a C4 before my swap. It had a shift kit and a 2200rpm stall converter in it. It was okay but boring for the most part. Plus driving on the interstate- well I never looked forward to it. I was going to build an AOD for it because at the time I need to change out my pedal assemble which was just to much $$$. As soon as I saw that I could add a clutch pedal to my existing pedal assemble I started looking for T5's. I found two used 4 cylinder T5's with a 302 bell for $125 locally. Then I ordered a Z-spec gear set for $500, a rebuild kit- $250, and a steeda shifter $100. So I had close to a $1K into my T-5 but that's $500 cheaper than a new one. Then I needed a flywheel- $250, A good clutch- $350, spacer plate, driveshaft-$200, crossmember, clutch cable, and a clutch pedal from modern driveline. It cost a little more than I had planned on spending but it was worth it IMHO. I love driving the car so much more now! I hate slush boxes. I am getting 19mph on average opposed to 13. I think I spent around $2K total doing the swap and it looks pretty stock from the inside. I used a Hurst chome stick. It fit my current exhaust set up as well. Plus I was able to get rid of my vacuum secondary carb and go with a double pumper! If you go with a standard TKO your going to have tunnel clearance issues. There are crossmembers that drop the transmission down but then your pinion angle is off and you will have to address that. I am not sure how a T56 fits but I think it actually fits better than a TKO. Keisler has many options that fit really well but as already mentioned the price is way up there. If your going to go with a T5 and make some power go with an A5 or a Gforce gear set. I only recommend these options if your able to build the unit yourself from a good core. The Gforce gears are not quite as strong but with leaf spring suspension it doesn't shock the gears as bad so it shouldn't be an issue. One other option they did make toploaders that had overdrives (3 speed with OD) they are rare but they are around. Truck guys love them as they are pretty strong. I see that the controllers for the 4R70W's are just under $800. Thats not bad. If you get a good used or rebuilt $4R70W for $1k you still might need a different driveshaft, trans yoke,cross member and shifter linkage. So its really comes down to what you want. It might be a little cheaper to go with the 4R70W but if you want to bang gears I would spend the extra money to bang gears. A couple of things to consider, wiring it up. You will have to install a TPS on your carb as well as one or two more sensors. Another is that most factory vehicles that have the 4R70w's shift around 4500-5500rpms. If your going to be spinning it up to 6-6500 don't be surprised if a stock one is going to develop some issues. Ford was always making upgrades to this transmission and even the last few years of production they were cracking separator plates because they removed some of the reinforcement plates off of the back side of the valve body. Just my two cents.

I did pull the bulb out of the left front turn signal assemble and it looked good. I think your right about switching them. I think they ground through the housing assemble with is probably rusted up. I will check it in the next couple of days and see if that is what it causing it. Thanks. Unfortunately its the least of my worries right now. I changed the oil on it and noticed that there was metal on the magnet on my drain plug. Plus the motor has a vibration at RPM that has slowly been getting worse. I cut the oil filter apart and the filter has a few metal particles in every pleat and they all stick to my magnet.. :( I pulled the rocker arms off yesterday while I had it idling. Intake push rod for #3 cylinder is not rotating. I think I have a lobe and or lifter going bad. Looks like its time to convert over to a hydraulic roller.

Thanks, I was planning on going with 17x9's but if a 10 will fit I would love to get one in there. What size tires do you have on your 18x10's? It looks great in the photo. These cars look mean lowered with some rubber under them. :batman: I know I will need to roll the outer lips, and some massaging on the inner some. No biggie. With the 17x9's I was planning on using a Nitto 275/40-17. I took some measurements and it seems a 5 inch back space will fit just fine. But until I get the actual tire and wheel on there I won't know for sure. I really don't want to run spacers. Rather just get the correct offset to begin with. I want the top of the tires to fit up in the fender well just a tad. A 17x8 with a 4.5 inch back space should work up front with a 245/40-17 I am assuming.

I cleaned the fuse box, and check the firewall connection. Also I replaced the turn signal switch and cleaned and checked the headlight switch/connector. Still can't get it figured out. It really seems as though something is back feeding but I can't figure out why its only when the parking lights are on and not the head lights. The only extra light that gets power when the parking lights are on is the light for the ignition switch which I don't even know why that comes on with the parking lights or if its supposed to. I also thought that it might be a problem with the printed circuit board or the connection there. Turn signals and hazards work fine with the headlight switch unplugged.

I'm very curious what offset/back spacing were the 18x10's that you had in the rear?

Your welcome. Yes it will only fit one way. The one I got 4+ years ago from CJ said that it needs modifications to work on 69-70. The bracket was backwards so I had to take it off and tack weld it back on the correct way. Sounds like they have a new supplier now for them. There are more and more parts becoming available for the 69-70's since they started making new bodies for them. Everything for a 67-68 is available new and has been for a quite a while. Still can't get the proper steering wheel pad for my rim blow steering wheel. Other pieces like the headlight switch screw and bezel aren't available either. :( Heck I can't even get the piece between the upper and lower dash for the passenger side with standard interior.

I dropped the uppers one inch without doing the wedge spacers for the upper ball joints. From everything I have read if you keep the rubber stops and they are in good condition you will not get enough over travel to bind the upper ball joint. For whats its worth I can not get my camber in spec. I have the front pretty low and with the wedged spacer to me I would think it would pull the upper ball joint in closer to the center of the car. On my car this would make it impossible to get the camber anywhere close to a street setting. The lower control arms need to be a tab bit shorter IMO. The guy at the alignment shop could get the left side at 2.3 but the right side with the adjuster on the lower control arm all the way inboard my right front is at 3 degrees. :(

I had to replace the CVR on a 69. The one I got did not fit correctly and had to modify the bracket. It was a PITA. NPD has a nice electric CVR instead of the old style design. Might want to look into that. Just a suggestion.