bigmal

I have an RRS power steering rack using the original pump. I think this will be the easiest part. The rack looks very well made. Can't wait to see how it drives.

I just ordered a coule of cans of U-POL primer. Looking forward to see how it works.

Thanks Ash, I've added the link to my favourites and will have a look over the weekend. You had me going with the wife liking your welding unitl I finished the sentence. I bring my wife down to see my work and usually get a "what am I looking at". Seriously... what is wrong with them? Welding is like fine art.

Hi Ash, I have had a MIG for 30 years and got my first TIG for Christmas (Santa was good to me). Got to admit my TIG welding on thin steel is not great. Had issues with warping. Getting the hang of it with thick steel. Tried a well on alluminium on the weekend. Looks like lava! seriously bad. My mate is a wiz with TIG so I'll need some pointers. Taking the windsreen out I was shocked to find no rust at all. My rust is two small patches in the from lower section of both doors. The main rust is in the torque boxes, seat supports and chasis just forwad of the rear axle. The front RH chasis rail has been previously repaired but not very well, so replacing that. I'll tackle the rear end later in the year. I have all the replacement parts ready to go. Working in an office I'm really looking forward to getting into this. Maybe that will change in a couple of weeks though.

Hi Guys, Thought I'd share my project with you. I am converting my 69 Mach 1 to RHD and some rust repairs. I have set myself a 30 day challenge officially starting this weekend. My goal is to have the main structure completed and engine in and running by 28 June as I have a month of long Service Leave. Although I did start a little early doing the wipers and taking out the windscreen on the weekend. I have been told by someone it will be off the road for at least 2 years. I need to prove him wrong.........I hope I don't eat my words. Following are some pics of the wipers. I am not sure this is how others tackled them but it works OK. Took a lot longer then I planned. Makes me nervous about the 30 day goal!

Thanks for that. I have painted in 2 pac and acrylic in the past. Always prefered acrylic because of the overspray and easyness of a good dust free finish. There is more than one of my old neighbours cars that got oversprayed. The 2 pacs I used in the past were Eurocryl and Acran neither of which would come back to a good shine after wet n dry. The 2 pac you have used seems a big improvement on the old ones.

This looks great. Is the new paint Acrylic? I think mine needs a new paint job after seeing this.

Thanks for your help today MAC360

I had a Marti report done when I bought my car out of Tampa (sight unseen). The door tag turned out to be a fake made to match the new paint/interior/diff. Apparently Marti will make a door plate to order. The Marti report showed the original configuration and the options at time of purchase. It was very helpful.

Hi Guys, I'm looking for some tips/cautions replacing the RH front chasis rail and both torque boxes. I am starting a Right Hand Drive conversion this weekend and have some rust/damage issues to address at the same time. I have not yet stripped the car so some of my concerns may be no issue once I can see exactly what I'm dealing with. The info for the chasis rail change I have seen does not show how the rail attaches to the firewall area. It appears to be butt welded which doesn't seen right to me. Is there some form of doubler here? Looking underneath the car I can't get a good picture of the torque box installation although it should make sense once the enhine and dash are out.

Thanks for that

Other than rotating the wheels and calculating against the tail shaft rotations is there another method of determining diff ratio? No tag fitted.

Thanks for that. With what we know about the set up what pipe diameter would you suggest?

Hi Barnett, I bought the car out of the US last year and don't have a lot of info on it. Has an FMX transmission and a single muffler each side. Don't know the diff ratio (doesn't seem too tall) or compression. The plate on the door is no help as it has been remade to show the new colour/trim/diff.

Hi Guys, I am running a 351C 4V in my 69 with original iron manifolds. I would like to go extractors but not a simple task with a right hand drive conversion so stuck with iron for now. The current exhaust is a hotch potch of diameters as follows: 2 1/2" from manifold to just prior to muffler then steps down to 2 1/4" entering muffler. 2 1/2" out of muffler and over rear axle then steps down to 2". The twin chrome tips are 1 3/4". I am running a 650 Holley and am not aware of any other mods to the engine. It seems a little under powered for a 351C. Has a traction lock diff and won't spin 245/60 T/As which I thought it would so I am suspecting the exhaust won't be helping. Could I have some advice on the best pipe size for my setup. I think I'm better starting from scratch. Thanks.

I have used RetroBelt 3 point inertia reel belts on the front. I found that they sat too high and would end up on my neck so added 12" drop links. Made all the difference.

Great news. I pannicked and called our IT people as I couldn't get access. Very glad to see you up an running again. I had to do some work instead.

Thanks guys. I will give that a go

I will be removing my windscreen in May while doing a conversion to right hand drive. It's many years since I've removed one. Could I have some tips on the best way to go about it. I was going to cut around the sealant with a piece of flat metal although I have heard that wire may be better.

I found Blu-tac worked well

Thanks guys. Looks like a great solution. Got to say, I love this site. very helpful.

Thanks Caseyrhe. This is exactly what I need.

I've never heard of this. Could someone post a picture. Thanks.

Thanks guys. Great advice

Thanks for that. Sounds like the way to go.