jwscarab

All the parts places sell it. On CJP, after you pick the glass you get to choose the option of clear, tinted (factory green), or smoked (black tinted). I am considering doing this to my car as I have chipped my rear window pretty bad anyway, I still have glue in on one door, and I also want tinted windows without the film. I'd love to hear from others on the fitment of the aftermarket glass, and their feedback on the smoked glass.

I also just added Fiero seats to my car a few weeks back. They sit VERY low. I have mine moved back too. I'm 6'5"+ and now have great room. I can even swing my legs under the column while sitting in the seat. Love the leg/head room they created.

What about the tinted aftermarket glass? Just a thought. Maybe pricy but no film to deal with?

I went with MSD "ready to run" with no ignition box required. Havent got to get it dialed in yet since its been -25* and snowing for the last 2 months straight......

Pauls Automotive Engineering in Blue Ash is well known, but maybe pricy as they seem to do high end stuff.

Not mine, and its a 65, but I thought this Mustang looked nice with the red on black. Saw it while trolling fleabay today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321295658305?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Lol! That's probably what I need to do!!! I remember a movie where somebody did that once (cant remember who) just ripped the front seat out and used the back! Yea, that is what I would have rather done, but then I would have the 1/2" tubing and the 1" mustang track. So I need to go fixed. If I get tired of it being fixed, its $24 lost...lol. You normal height people are lucky!!

Sweet car! I like the color too! Look like you are wasting no time with progress. Welcome!

I think if headroom was not an issue, I would bolt the tracks to the tubing, or do something else - just to have the added benefit if the room in the rear with the pull of a lever. But with my head room, I want to eliminate the track to gain the head room so I'm OK with no sliders - although not optimum setup. I do need to check out Mustangs To Fear headliner too sometime. Great solution to headroom! I need to check it out in person to get a feel of the style of it.

I like the Optima. Just a fan of the sealed up unit and have had friends with good luck. My car has the red top in the trunk. It does not start my car after sitting for a month or so but I am not sure how the previous owner treated it and I do believe it is 8 yrs old. If I replace it, it will be with another Optima. I just bought a CTEK 4.3 charger which is supposed to be the best smart charger - especially for the Optima.

Ok, after thinking about this a bit, heres my plan. I'm almost 6'6". I bought Feiro Seats and they sit low and recline. :thumbup1: Fiero seats use 13 3/8 wide by 14 long hole pattern. Mustang floor pan holes are 14 wide by 11 long. So - I sat my Fiero seats in the car and positioned them where I have TONS of leg room and head room. The front hole on the Fiero "seat base" is 5" aft of the front hole on the floor pan. NOT the tracks - there will be NO tracks on the install. Solution: I bought rectaugular steel tubing. 1 1/2 wide by 1/2" tall by 21" long. The tubing is 0.065" thick which I believe is plenty strong for "tubing". Maybe not for flat or brackets. It will run fore/aft, 2 per seat. Drill holes all the way thru both sides just big enough for the bolt threads to go thru. Drill clearance holes on one side only for the heads of the bolts to go into the tubing and be hidden in the tubing. First put the bolts down thru the tubing that go into the floor and fix them to the tubing (spot weld, JB weld, silicone) just to keep them from turning while putting on nut. Second, put the other bolts up thru the tubing and tighten into the seats with socket. Drop seat/tubing assy into car and install nuts from under car. Done! Pic shows head of bolts 5/16's offset per tube to allow for 5/8 total offset per seat. Add more holes fore/aft for different positions if desired. I plan on having them fixed so I will be nice and stretched out. When nobody else can reach pedals - I guess they dont drive! I have no need for rear passengers ("sorry, seats dont slide up"). And if I ever need to "work" in the rear interior of the car, I guess I undo 4 nuts and lift out passenger seat. Extenders for both seats = $24 total !!

Nice ride! You will enjoy the project! Hopefully it is very solid - being a CA car, maybe all is well! Enjoy and Welcome!!

It was too much for me to handle - I had to realize I would never get it done and find something that I could handle. Yours looks real solid! That's a great way to start - you can have fun with it! Good luck - I'll keep an eye on you thread!

Pics of Fiero Seat. Last 2 pics in max recline / entry positions. Should work no problem! :thumbup1:

Nice car!! I really like the look of the black primered 69/70 cars! Hard to explain, they just look bad a$$.

Yea I have the hinges tightened down very well. The chipping occurred when removing the old Hammond bracket that just tucked under the glass gasket. It needed pried out. I'm betting the glass will crack sometime in the future due to the chipping, but I figured what happened happened so its too late. I filled the chipped edge with sealant. I'll replace it when/if it lets go!

Yea I agree completely Bob! I just need seats and good weather.....lol. I'm very jealous of you guys who get to enjoy their rides all year long! Yikes - That would be a show stopper Rich! I'm not 100% sure either! I guess I will find out real soon. I have the seats in the basement but they are disassembled. I need to find the hardware and assemble them. Then I will post back for everybody if they do tilt forward. I sure hope so!!

The Louver job went ok. I have a few comments on them. First removing the old Hammond louvers was easy except for the upper hinges. They tucked under the rubber and then bent down in front of the glass. Nice to keep them from falling off, but to remove you really need to remove the trim and bend the rubber up. I really didn't want to remove my trim so I used a gasket scraper type screw driver and lifted the front of the hinge bracket up as I pulled aft with the pliers. First one came out fine. Second one came out with a crunching sound and bits of glass (heart sink). Seems I chipped a good amount of glass off the edge. I vacuumed it out and filled in under the gasket with adhesive. I hope it doesn't lead to a broken window but if it does I guess that means I have a good excuse to buy the black tinted glass vs the green OEM tint in it now. Second is the new louvers and the way the seal sits on the trim. If I had to do it over I would have mounted them a tad more forward. I spent a lot of time positioning them perfectly before marking and drilling. After installed, when I raise the louvers then lower them, the gasket (on the top only between the hinges) now sits aft of the trim between the hinges, then transitions to laying on top of the trim at the corners and down the sides. It didn't do that as I test fit them, it happened after I screwed them down and then raised and lowered them. I tried with a screw driver to get the seal back up on top, but there is not enough overlap. If I had to do over, I would mount them about 1/4" more forward. Besides that, all went well!! Before and after pics.....

New dizzy project finished. It runs smooth now and seems to have fixed the rough idle / rpm limiting issues. Probably still need a new coil wire (it barely reached) but its ok for now. That project is done! Also installed the rear tranny seal and it doesn't drip anymore so that's cool. Pics of dizzy / coil attached. Tired of jump starting car every time it sits a week or more. The battery has a cut off that I use every time but it still gets too weak after a week or more of sitting. Probably need a new battery but it has an Optima Red Top. I did just get a CTEK 4.3 charger which is supposed to work well on these batteries - we will see. Only thing keeping me from test driving it is I removed and sold the front seats. I'd have to sit on a bucket and that's just not a good idea.....lol. My next project is the NPD rear window louver install. Hopefully get that done today. After that is the Fiero seats.

Buckeye that ride looks so Sweet! Congratulations! Are you finished now? I notice every once in a great while a used hood trim oem on fleabay. Not cheap but maybe worth it to keep an eye out. If I run across one I will yell. Sweet ride -u have to be pumped!

Well I got the MSD distributor in today, its in the hole and aligned up. I was going to use my old coil but my paranoid side got to me and I decided to ditch the Mallory Promaster coil too. Ran to local store and got an MSD Blaster 2 which is recommended for the MSD dizzy. Now my fears of frying a $385 dizzy are gone - even tho I have no idea if the Mallory would have been fine or not. At least I feel better about it all being the same. Secondly I noticed the tach wire went to the negative side of the coil. Now with the MSD, I have to change that to the grey wire on the dizzy instead of the negative on the coil. Got a little rewiring done but not much. Hope to finish tomorrow but we will see. I'll get new pics once done. Fingers crossed once its started and timed that it will solve the ignition issues I have had since day one.

Now here's a funny thing. Today I jacked up the rear end from under the pumpkin. So my car lifted off the rear jack stands which were under the rear torque boxes. I move the jack stands to the rear axle tubes as far apart as possible. I lowered the car making sure the axle tube was centered in the U of the jack stands. So anyway, only one side of the car is sitting on the jack stand! The other side is 1/2" off. This is interesting because the car is now putting its weight thru the rear springs and by all means the axle should sit on both stands (yes stands are set to same height). So anyway, I just figure it goes to show how front heavy my car must be, and how beneficial IRS must be. I'm sitting on 3 jack stands and that's crazy. Also when the car sits on the wheels on the ground it sits square - the rear tire clearance to the lips is about zero - like the pic in the signature. But after letting the rear end hang a few weeks then putting it back on the jack stands under the axles, I have a good 2" of height between top of tires and quarter lips.

So you guys leave your cars up all winter? Jack stands under the rear axle, but let the front wheels hang??

I have a hard time jacking up the car where is would have a "twist" while jacking. The rear is no problem but then you have to go side to side for the front. My front and rear torque boxes are connected by a 2"x4" box steel sub-frame connector - so it makes a real nice area to jack up the "whole side" of the car in one swipe, one side at a time. So I jack it up lh side / rh side. Also the previous owner welded a lot of plate steel to the torque boxes and other parts on the frame to stiffen up the flimsy sheet metal. Its a pretty stout setup - albeit not correct. To your point I should now jack up the rear axle and move the jack stands from the rear torque boxes to the rear axle and spread out the footprint.

Thanks guys. It does pass the hard push/pull test. My next project is a new distributor install and I like the height of the car on stands (less bending over) so I was hoping to do this and time/tune it all on the stands.