Mach1 Driver

Dave, the FiTech instructions on page 3 show an external pump (they don't show an in-tank pump), but all they show is the pump and a post fuel filter; then the line goes right into the EFI. not my thumbnails

Cruise control? Nice, whose do you use?

the sites selection process says that part is not compatible with 69 Ford Mustang. What part number did you use?

I got a quick reply on the Newton TPV two way valve and it looks like a winner, however I can't get the picture to copy here so I'll include an attachment: From Newton: For your information, the TPV Vent Valve is always 'closed'. When the fuel tank builds up to have over 50mbar pressure (note 1), the TPV Valve will momentarily open to relieve the excess pressure. When the fuel is being pumped from the tank to fuel rail, if the fuel tank creates a vacuum, then the TPV will open up at 5mbar (note 2) allowing air into the fuel tank. The TPV can be positioned lower than the fuel inlet hose, but you will need to connect a hose onto the outlet end of the TPV and run this up as high as possible, along the roll cage (or inner roof of the car) and then terminate the hose outside of the car (usually within a wheel arch), but lower than the fuel tank (I have sketched something below to assist) In the event of a rollover, the TPV should seal off, but just in case of an unexpected failure, having a hose lower than the fuel tank will ensure no fuel spillage. Note 1: 50mbar = .725psi, or 20.088 in H2O Note 2: 5mbar= .0725 psi or 2.008 in H2O This is a pretty small number, for reference I included "inches H2O" which is how the natural gas coming into your house is commonly measured. Your gas range is usually around 5 in H2O. This pressure is so small you could seal up a leak with regular old masking tape if needed (not recommended). A TanksInc tank is 9.75" deep so in a rollover the pressure a full tank of fuel would exert on the valve would be .260psi in the unlikely event the tank were level. Anyway it doesn't pop open until .725psi so this looks good. Position the valve above the filler neck so it doesn't normally get fuel in it and then do a big loop in the hose up to the top of one of the rear roof pillars and back down to the bottom of the wheel well. Not being all that familiar with the structure of the car does this sound doable? Newton TPV valve.doc

John, as you know, these cars come with vented caps and its my contention that we should go with non-vented caps and instead vent the tank to atmosphere via the vent built into the Tanks Inc fuel pump collar. We have to allow air to come in when fuel goes out (or just the opposite if the fuel expands), and the easiest way should be out the barbed line at the pump. If your cable provider (I have Comcast) allows you to call up previous episodes of Bitchin Rides, go look at S1 Ep14 at around 28 minutes. The owner picks up his 69 Stang from Kindigit and there's a shot from the back as he pulls away under heavy acceleration...and gas comes out from around the cap. My car has the original paint and is discolored in the area below the cap. Some of it may be from this but I'm sure most is done when filling the dang thing. I'm just trying to alleviate all the fuel spillage that I can. I'm going to add a baffle or two inside the filler neck also. I'm not yet convinced that the Newton TPV two way valve is the way to go. I've emailed them a couple of questions about the installation and rollovers. I'll let you all know. not my attached thumbnail

Yes the software for this site can be frustrating when you are trying to copy, paste, an attach stuff. So from your description I think I've got the jist of what we are looking at. Please tell me if I am wrong: Pic1: passenger side next to trans? Is that an AOD? Pic2: coming up firewall at back of intake. Why the quick-connects? Pic3: fuel filter- what make? Pic4: in front of passenger wheel? Pic5: behind passenger wheel Pic6: bulkhead connectors looking over differential Pic7: same as 6 but viewed from passenger wheel Pic8: over rear axle- nice disc brakes- whose? Pic9: down passenger side with fuel filter Pic10: bulkhead connectors from truck side? I intend to use a Tanks Inc tank also so the bulkhead connectors appear to be a good solution to get the lines out of the trunk.

That little nugget of information is exactly what us neophytes needed, it's the Rosetta Stone. Thanks very much!!

I think we all appreciate the pictures but if I may make a suggestion it would help if you could identify where and what each shows. Thanks

The concrete gets done next week :P

Aw darn it! Until last year I practically lived in your lap in Lake Forest, and never knew you were there. I retired and moved to Atlanta.

Very slick, I like it!

Pertronix makes three versions; 1 is just a points replacement, 2 also adjusts the advance, and Pertronix 3 is MSD but it all resides under the dizzy cap. If you rely on the coil (points side) as a tach input it can give you a glitzy input. If you are going to the FiTech EFI they claim that both the 2 and 3 are trouble. Neither the Pertronix 2 or 3 have a separate tach output, and FiTech prefers a two wire magnetic pickup in the dizzy for a clean tach input.

Wow, I finally got an outside view of you car- very nice! So Graphic-Express did custom stripes for you? Over the years I've grown to hate the reflective, peeling, chipping stripes on my Mach and want some custom ones that are a combination of Grabber and Mach, but just non-reflective black vinyl.

I don't think I've ever been under the car to look at the fuel line- where is the joint? Is there some reason it can't be a continuous line until you get up to the engine and need to switch to hose? I thought to put the filter up near the EFI.

Google: copper gaskets for flare fittings

Yeah I caught that, the wire diagram is in a Word doc, see below. Fuel pump inertia hookup.doc

Hmm, and it needs to be positioned vertically so the hose would be coming up from below. This makes for a funky installation doesn't it? Well you've got one in your hot little hand, so please tell the rest of us Stangers how you solved the problem- pictures too please.

Attached is a wire diagram- it put it up above in your quote

prayers1: 1. I'm a little confused about the "vent hose". Is this a RETURN coming from the regulator you are temporarily installing for the carb? The Tanks Inc pump has three connections- the pump output, a return line for fuel coming back to the tank, and a vent to atmosphere. There is no need to go to the fill tube or the drain on the bottom of the tank, everything is up at the pump. 2. 8AN is 8/16 = 1/2", while 6AN is 6/16 = 3/8" hose. I doubt that the carb uses that much more fuel than the FiTech but it doesn't hurt to run a bigger hose. You can use a fitting to reduce the size and go into the FiTech when you install that later. The volume will be affected by the smallest passage- the 8 to 6 fitting. The pump has a 1/4 NPT fitting so I don't think 1/2" hose will help much. 3. I would suggest an inertia switch and relay as mentioned earlier in this thread. The explanation will get a little messy so I'll do it in a later post since you are initially using a carburetor and this isn't really about EFI anymore. 4. As for hose I intend to use 3480 from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies as mentioned on page 2 of this thread in the attachment AN Hose and Fittings. 5. If your old steel line is rust free there is no reason not to use it. The Tanks Inc pump has 1/4 NPT supply and return fittings so they expect some pressure on the return side and hose with clamps would not be recommended. The atmosphere vent is the only line that has a barb for a hose and clamps.

Dave, I intend to use a Tanks Inc tank also and was wondering what the rollover vent looked like- could you post a picture? Originally I was going to put the vent near the differential, but the wheel wells would be higher (but dirtier).

Perhaps these will help, go to: http://www.jefflilly.com/fabrication/fuel-brake-lines/ Scroll down to #33 and 34 They are copper gaskets that go between the fitting and flare and work well on stainless.

The steel line is mechanically superior to hose, and you can even go one better with stainless line, although it is more difficult to bend. The Russel Twist-loc appears to be the most difficult to put a fitting on, but if you go up this thread to page 2 and click on my post with the You Tube link to installing AN fittings on stainless braided hose, it doesn't look too difficult. The guy in the video is a bit crusty and kinda reminds me of one of my drill instructors way back when.

FiTech says most people use Russel Twist Loc. I'm in the middle of doing concrete work so I can get my two post lift installed. Then I can get a good look at the bottom of the beast and make a decision on fuel line routing etc., and finally I'll make a decision on the types, but I'm leaning toward steel line with 3480 stainless braid/PTFE wherever it needs to be flexible. To me that combination will be the most durable and best looking. Also PTFE won't allow any fuel smell to permeate the hose, although its not sanctioned by NHRA.

You'll never know if EMI is going to be a problem until you try. If the fuel injection is glitchy after you install it, first try a stock coil and see if the problem goes away. If that doesn't do it, remove the MSD and go back to points- because the MSD outputs higher voltage to the coil than points will and that increases the output voltage. If that doesn't fix the problem then it's time to look elsewhere. It's not something you can PREDICT; you just have to take it a step at a time. Now you know that the systems may interact and if they do you have a path to follow to fix the problem.

Pertronix 1 replaces the points, 2 also plays with the advance, and 3 is MSD, but I believe prayers1 is also thinking about EFI, and since Pertronix 3 doesn't have a tach output the EFI wouldn't get a clear tach signal and thus not operate properly.