Mach1 Driver
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Posts posted by Mach1 Driver
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It has.
Also available at Dallas Mustang and other retailers. The fit is perfect for saddle mount applications.
Hey Max Power, FYI I saw the picture of the 69 Fastback shown below your posts in the 2017 NPD catalog on page 113. Is that good looking beast yours?
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Could this Maybe explain why so many parts are pictured in the oven or stove?????????
We should do a Cause and Effect (a.k.a Fishbone) Diagram to test this hypothesis. You may be right, there could be a correlation.
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This is worse than I thought
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It seems these devices come in many shapes and sizes. The next two shipments of Mustang parts now have a defense for the spending.
Oh the humanity!! Quick defensive thinking.
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You need to hear my sad tale of woe so that you too are not drawn by curiosity into this diabolical trap:
I entered our darkened living room and saw a faint light on top of the antique table on the opposite side of the room. It is a small table that is lined in stone and has an inlaid marble top. I suppose it was very fashionable in it’s day and was intended to store tobacco. On top of the table I could just make out the outline of a box with a handle on it’s top. The box had decorative holes around the sides through which a very dim light shone. Like a moth to a flame and in the best of Stanger attitudes I slowly lifted the handle to try and glimpse what was inside. I was immediately blinded by a bright light shining directly up into my eyes and swayed ever so slightly to the side. Then a hot substance oozed over my fingers and down onto the table and floor. This elicited a prolific amount of swearing and further swaying. WTF??
I beseech you to search and identify if such a devilish device exists in your abode. I am told it was shown to me some years ago but I apparently thought it to be some sort of bric-a-brac or decoration and not worthy of further consideration. I am sure you can see why I thought thusly. It is a small metal box with a very small spot light facing upward and a decorative pattern punched in the sides. A tiny tray with handle is placed on top of the light, and the most disturbing feature of all is the scented wax that is placed in the tray so that it may melt and “freshen†the room. No male has ever paid the slightest attention to such a demonic device. Indeed it is repugnant to any self-respecting Stanger of the male persuasion.
To make matters worse, the wax was the same light golden color of the oak floor onto which it spilled and hardened, after forming a puddle on the marble top and running over the sides and down. Take heed- YOU HAVE BEEN FORWARNED!
The picture is courtesy of my son
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Very nice car, I can see why you get the looks. Welcome to the forum.
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Picture doesn't show up in link...
I added a .pdf in post #10 above. Let me know if you still have trouble
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Welcome to the forum John. Sounds like you've got some nice cars. Does this help?
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I suggest you talk to Daniel Stern Lighting. Be patient, he will inundate you with lots to read, but its good stuff and gives you the background you need to make an informed decision.
The 69 has the smaller 5.75" lights, which are a problem. Basically it came down to this:
For the high beams use a good quality Cubie parabolic Hi high beams ($79 ea), with Flosser/Narva Rangepower+50 bulbs ($15.59).
For the low beams you have some options depending on how well you want to see at night and how much you want to spend. Don't use H4s of any brand. In this size format they are all inefficient. Only 55% of the reflector is used to collect the light for the low beam. Use Hella BiFocal Hi Low beams ($139 ea) which are the most efficient best focused replaceable- bulb halogen headlights in this size format. Use Flosser/Narva Rangepower+50 Hi bulbs ($15.59).
This takes some rewiring, since you will not have the stock total of six filaments, but now only four. See the attached Word.doc for a diagram. Notice the low side of the kick switch has to be jumped.
Edit: I've attached an additional .pdf file in case you've had trouble seeing the drawing
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Are you replacing with stock bushings or are you going to use adjustable strut rods like in this video?
youtube.com/watch?v=GX27dN2fBpo
Does anyone have any experience/pros/cons with these?
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If I had your car I would also do the mechanical work first, I'd continue driving it while doing the upgrades
I originally planned on doing that but of course it means pulling most things apart twice; once to fix it and again to do the paint (rotis.) and interior. My brother convinced me to do the paint first, then rebuild with a refreshed engine and trans.
I do wonder how long it will take. Its a Southern California car (So Cal is essentially a desert) and it has always been garaged so I don't expect a lot of rust but there is some in the passenger door where the rear weep hole apparently plugged-up. Everything works (after a fashion) and everything is there, but virtually everything needs attention.
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repatriate that old girl!
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Good points. The stripes would have to come off before the wrap, so there goes the originality anyway. So its back to paint :)
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I’m the original owner of an all original 69 Mach1. I kept it so I would have a project when I retired. It still runs but has 77k on the odometer and looks pretty sad. I ran into a guy today that begged me to keep it original. I’ve been tired of the color and the peeling, cracked and chipped stripes for a long, long time. This guy suggested I wrap the car so it would stay original. He said I could get any color I wanted and it would look shiny and new.
I’m interested in your thoughts. Has anyone seen this done on an entire car?
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I've installed a Borgeson 14:1 ratio box on mine. I've been doing other work as well so I haven't driven it yet.
I would appreciate an update of your impressions when you drive it, and if any tweaks were required. Thanks
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neutral safety switch is not hooked up
Are the wires going the neutral safety switch connected together, effectively bypassing the switch? The normal path is from the ignition switch S through the neutral safety switch then to solenoid S. If the two wires to the neutral safety switch are not connected together then it can't start.
If you take the wire off solenoid S and connect a wire directly to battery + and then solenoid S it should crank, and continue to crank as long as the wire is connected. It will stop as soon as you disconnect the wire, but if the key is in the on position it will continue to run.
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You can't diagnose this problem until it doesn't work. When it isn't starting put one voltmeter lead on Solenoid terminal S (with the wire still connected) and the other voltmeter lead to chassis.
1.Turn the key to start, you should get 12vdc. If you DO get 12v and the solenoid doesn't engage (click) then its a bad solenoid.
2. If the solenoid clicks but it still doesn't crank, move the voltmeter lead from solenoid S to the cable going down to the starter. If you still don't get 12v with the key in start its the solenoid.
3. If you do get 12v but it doesn't crank, its the starter.
4. If you DO NOT get 12v on terminal S with the key in start then it would one of two things:
A. The neutral safety switch is not closed. Check for voltage on each side of the switch. If you get voltage on one side but not the other either adjust the switch or replace it.
B. You are not getting voltage out of the ignition switch terminal S. Check for voltage at terminal S with the key in start. If you don't get it, it is a bad ignition switch.
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New gears do not need to be honed to fit as that could eliminate the press fit.
Yes it must be a press fit or the pin will eventually break and the gear become loose. In my case it had to be honed to make it a press fit for a MSD distributor. According to Chris all the aftermarket distributors have Chinese gears that are junk and won't last or chew-up your cam gear.
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Chris Staub (a custom cam builder) suggests to use a Crane melonized steel distributor gear honed to fit your distributor. A brass gear is intended for racing and will not harm your camshaft gear but it is self sacrificing and will need to be replaced about once a year. The Crane gear is the same one they used to make and discontinued for several years during their transition.
Raven R code reacted to this -
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And how the hell can i get some pictures in here? :)
Go to "The Garage", and the second pinned item down tells how to post pictures. Welcome to the forum.
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FYI in a previous post one of our resident experts barnett468 has said that he has used 235x60-15 on a 15x7 wheel with a 4.25 back space with no rubbing on 50+ cars. I asked but he didn't respond whether or not the cars had the Shelby drop or different springs.
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Larryc94 thanks for the recap. Summarizing your posts your specs look like this (please correct me if I'm wrong):
Summary:
Front springs: Grab-a-track 620's (560 lb) for a 65-66 uncut. Same as 67-70 but 1†shorter
3/4" poly spacer (raises car 1.5â€, with 1/4 spacer spring is loose when jacked up)
1†Shelby drop
Roller perches
KYB low pressure shocks.
Rear springs are Scott Drake 4.5 mid eye
1" lowering blocks
Wheels:15x7 4.25 BS
Tires: 235/60-15 all around
ride height now: 26.10†stock*: 26.813†delta: -0.713â€
Center of wheel to lip now: 12.75†stock*: 14.813†delta: -2.063â€
*stock= 47 year old springs, stock wheels, 215/70R 14 tires, 351W, FMX
GreeneMachines reacted to this -
235/60-15 all four and also the 65-66 620 front spring are 1" lowering on a 65-66 and end to be 2" on a 67-70 and therefore no need to cut coils
Larry
Just so I get all the vitals was your wheel size 15x7 and what is the back spacing? Could you post a bigger picture of your car so we can see the stance please?
Man Trap
in The Garage
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Aww, don't do it- that's where they get ya. You shift it and you're gonna be wearing that shit!