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mqu02

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Posts posted by mqu02

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Max Power:  I had the exact same problem as you with the motor (351W) being low in my '69, but my car had been hit at an early point in its life, which may or may not have caused the problem.  I ended up making 4 spacers in a lathe that were (approximately) 3/8" tall, then installed them between the engine mount & block with respectively longer bolts.  I looked things over for about an hour before I determined I had to solve the problem with a motor height adjustment, and I also know the difference between the different factory engine mounts (I had the right ones).  With the projected angle of the engine it moved the fan up the distance I needed and kept me from having a fan interference issue with the factory shroud.  I am also using the factory 24" wide heavy duty cooling package 351W radiator, and I substituted a Ford C9WE-C clutched fan, which was the factory fan for a '69 351W Cougar w/ac.  I have never had close to a problem with heat on this car, and it has AC as well.  I picked that fan because it had good cooling capability, and having a clutch, robbed a lot less horsepower vs. a fixed blade fan.

    Here is the same fan I have, but you can find them a lot cheaper with a little searching/patience:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-C9WE-C-1969-Mercury-Cougar-7-Blade-cooling-351-fan-w-A-C-/322644573929?hash=item4b1f1d7ee9:g:JbMAAOSwFM1Zc-N4&vxp=mtr

    RPM and Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  5. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

    You could always ask the painter at the Mustang Shoppe on Poplar how he got the tag off my 65 ?  Believe me I was speechless when they handed me that tag.  It was more about why than how ?  Brian

    65 Door Warranty Tag OE 1.JPG

    I would have been livid at seeing that.  Any shop that knows anything about Mustangs should know how irreplaceable a 65-66 door tag is to proving the originality of the car.  I really feel for you, and I sure hope they do better work on the rest of your car (or I would be looking for another shop ASAP).

  9. Posted · Report reply

    2 minutes ago, Machspeed said:

    Thanks, but it's going out to be media blasted. Was thinking about removing it before it goes off for the process. I suppose I could tape it up real good and speak to the people on this.  

    That is exactly what I would do in that situation.  Use a heavy duty tape like "Gorilla Tape" and you should be OK.

    Machspeed reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    There really shouldn't be any reason why you couldn't use a FMX-style switch (the one in the shifter itself) in this application, and they both plug in the same at the firewall area.  It would be a whole lot easier to do that then to try to get a C6 style switch to work with your existing setup.  Also, I have an extra of the correct kickdown lever if you need one.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    A 600cfm carb is on the extreme high side of what a decent 302 will normally use unless it is absolutely screaming, and a 500cfm carb should be more than sufficient (actually ideally suited).  Are you sure your 500cfm unit doesn't have a tuning problem?  Also, I am not very familiar with the 1406, but you should be able to jet it down and keep it.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Just out of curiosity only, does anyone know where the "Dark Teak" was used?  I was always under the impression that the '69 body style started with the Light Teak interior, then they converted to the Walnut mid-year in '69 with all '70's being Walnut.  As a reference, I have 3) '69's, and two are late '68 builds that originally had  light teak, but the third is a June '69 build with all walnut interior.  Also, if copb8 has a '70 that has an original light teak interior, that makes what I was thinking inaccurate.  Not a huge deal, but figured I would ask.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Why is it worth nothing?  I'd bet you'll pay more than that if you need one.  It took a while for me to find an OEM clutch type 7 blade fan in good condition.  The OEM fans move much more air than aftermarket flex or clutch fans.

    Agree^^^  This is actually a pretty decent fan for a 351W or 351C w/ 24" radiator, and is somewhat hard to find.  It offers the advantages of a clutch to save hp, while still giving good airflow capability when needed.  Furthermore it looks completely stock on our cars, and only a concourse judge would probably even notice it wasn't correct.  This is the same fan as I have on mine, and depending on what you want for it, I might be interested in it for a possible future project or something.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, mwye0627 said:

    When people say the aftermarket sending units are no good, is it because they quit working, or are they inaccurate with a stock gauge???

    I have been developing custom gauges for older muscle cars, but I use modern digital technology to drive miniature stepper motors like in many modern cars, and I can write the transfer function for any sending unit as long as it is repeatable. I have also found sources for thermistors which would thread into the intake manifold like a stock sensor, but they will not read correctly on a stock gauge.   I'm looking for a repeatably accurate aftermarket sending unit that I can use so my customers could find an aftermarket source if necessary...

    Thanks,

    Mike

    My experience with aftermarket sending units is that they are very inaccurate.  I have tried a few of them and their resistance values are off from the factory ones.  I have only tied them into the factory gauges though, and the last one I had read way too hot.  I then found a used factory one in an old intake manifold, installed it, and it fixed the problem immediately.

    mwye0627 reacted to this

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I would highly recommend Barry, but plan for a couple months to get it back.  He has done both a '66 and '69 8-track for me, did a wonderful job, and I have a 2nd '69 8-track at his place right now getting fixed.  He takes his job very seriously, and is the only person I would trust fixing these units.  As far as button interchangeability, unfortunately these buttons are kind of rare (I may have one if you really are in a bind - PM me).  Here is a good reference for the radio's you need to get a button from, and I got it from the following link:

    The Motorola part number is 38-41329B01, which is used on the following AM/8-Track players:
    T8MM - 1968 Mercury
    T8MZ/T8MZW = 1968 Mustang/Cougar
    T9MZ - 1969 Mustang
    1MZ4004 - 1970 Mustang
    1CR4005 - 1970 Cougar

    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/485579-radio-push-button-interchanges.html

    RPM reacted to this
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