Raven R code

Ok.....being deadnuts on is only good if it's truly functional. My problem with the original cables that I had purchased was the cable insulation started melting off during starting. I don't know what gauge they were but let's assume they weren't 4ga like these.

Has anyone bought these?........ http://www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/4943784/5910241.htm

Got housings back from plating......pretty happy with the way they turned out.

In the second video at 2:27, the hood looks like it is the same as SEM hot rod black! I thought the original hood treatments were more of a true flat black?

Ha ha ha!! Who are these idiots????!!!!

Hey Bob, There probably aren't many new "real" people signing up everyday. Is there a way to maybe manually approve new people that sign up? I have a wordpress site and nobody gets through with a new account unless I or one one my admins approves it. It seemed like spam was low on our site when the Russians were focused on the presidential election. And now that it's over.....they are back bothering us again.

I think it was most gaskets....oil pain water pump and I think head gasket. I will double check.

Maybe compared to cars of the day......but not by today's standards that's for sure. I was thinking of using my car for snow removal.....because it plows into corners really well ;)

I have 2 through 4 covered already. On number 2, I think it is mentioned to cut the filter adapter gasket to clear out the area covering the 2 long ovals.

Another thing my builder said was to apply gasket sealer to one side of the gasket and let it cure overnight. He said if you don't, you chance squeezing all the RTV out to a thinner coating.

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere. So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come. Dave

And another one...... https://youtu.be/R4ou6zhBTNM Happy Holidays!

Check out this video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/f9QwIk1bCEA

Love my tail lights! I have them hooked up to a battery to show people until my car is done.

OMG!!!!!!! That is an unbelievable color! Stunning! And to think........ when mine gets painted, all I'll end up with is a black car. The people at ford are probably wondering if they can go back in time and add that to the color palette so they can get credit for it.

About to paint my 428.....using Eastwood (corporate) ford blue. Body guy is going to shoot the fully assembled motor. I think it is rated at 650°......versus the typical 550° rattle can.

Why......in 2016, can't a manufacturer get it right??!! My friend hand to modify to clear the pitman arm(?) on the passenger side and I think it was equalizer bar on the other side. Now his headers are dented and bent in order to fit. What kills me is the. Car hasn't changed in 50 years.....there shouldn't be surprises at this point. Now my engine guy is against headers because my car is an original low mile car. Couldn't I just put headers on and keep my originals in a box without hurting the value or do they need to be on the car? I wonder I wonder what the Russian spammers think? I hope they chime in.

Just picked up my engine from getting rebuilt. Was told that the factory cast iron headers rob the motor of 40 HP . I'm considering headers but not sure what actually fits with modifications. My friend with a 390 car had to modify a lot to get to get them to fit.

Brian....I called them already and complained about that. They said to follow the link on their site to their instagram site. I told them they should have a direct link to those 2 sets as they are used on most muscle cars from the 60's.

True.....all repo floors will fit 65-70 but only accurate for 65-68 mostly because of drain plugs. I love people who advertise their cars as 100% rust free original cars but have a repo floor. Kinda takes the wind out of the sails. Lol.

Dynacorn should be the better choice.

Ok.....just called them. They have the classic "Goodyear Polyglass" and "Firestone Wide Oval" designs for $30 per tire. They will consider a multi quantity discount for us on this site. Just need a show of hands on who might be interested. Dave

This place might save a lot of time..... http://tredwear.com/designer-series-whte-letter-tire-kits/

I'm really curious how this works out. I had the same idea.....getting black wall tires and adding the old style "Goodyear" logo on.

+1 for full quarter. And Bob is correct....the area where the rear valence mounts to the back of the quarter panel is pretty much flat and does't allow the valence mount tab to recess on the skin. The factory quarter has the recess channel for the valence. Dave