takoarm

CHP and FPS are pretty local. Bout 20 miles away.

Has anyone installed the dash and passenger dash panels?

Your car sounds great man. I got a bid from FPS a month ago and it was 2k cheaper than all of the other shops. I just always question a dirty shop as well. That was the difference for me. Super nice guy though just didn't pass the smell test of if it sounds to good to be true, it probably is.

apparently they have a wait on parts.

Ordered my engine today. 3-4 months of waiting now.

http://www.coasthigh.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=14802%2DPS%2DF427W%2DV&CartID=1 maybe this one. Quick question if I am not going over 600 hp is there any advantage to getting a new dart block over a seasoned Windsor block?

yeahCHP is just a stones throw away from me or in the event a short tow.

I am looking for reliabilty first and foremost and longevity second and high performance lastly. Going to pair this up with a C-6 most likely. I would like to squeeze at minimum 450 hp out of the engine and I really have no beef with a higher output as long as I'm not sacrificing my top 2 objectives. I have contacted 4 major engine builders and have gotten estimates and most of them are about the same price. These are using remanufactured blocks and are hovering around 540hp. I noticed the Ford racing motor is around 2500$ more and has a new 351w boss block. I can also get anywhere from 450hp to 530hp depending on which one of their crates I choose. The other engine builders are Keith Craft, FPS, CHP engines, and Proformance Unlimited. I would love to here some testimonials and or educated opinions.

Judging by the pics, my 1969 coupe restomod will most likely be a rarer find than nearly any sportsroof (weird but possibly true). They are all beautiful and everyone has different tastes but, for me it's so weird the overwhelming popularity of the sportsroof? I've driven at least 12 classic mustangs, The vision gained in a coupe is priceless. Wonder how long it will take for the 69 coupes take off? Maybe I am just an idiot for sinking what will surely be over 50k into mine. There can't be a ton of restorable sportsroofs left when you really break it down. Are coupes that undesirable? My next restomod will be a mach 1 so I guess I may have to wait to find my answer.

I picked up my hood and panels from Anvil today since I am in So. Cal. Top knotch service and super friendly. Was told if I have any fitment issues on the hood and they will help me work out the issue and if that doesn't work they will get me a new one that does fit. They are also in the works of making the woodgrain inserts for the deluxe door panels. So if you are looking for a consistant look to replace all of the wood accents with carbon fiber in your Mustang.

didnt fit?

said the hell with it and ordered the hood as well

Finally found one. I wanted carbon fiber so this worked out perfect I also bought the instrument cluster. I'll post picks when I get them. Super stoked about this. I have called Scott Drake every week since they put the add up in Mustang Monthly and nobody there has heard anything about their replacement panel. Today I talked to someone in R and D and he said the girl who does the advertizing jumped the SHark and it is still a prototype and is not ready for production. Hope this Anvil piece works out. I might try one of their hoods as well. http://anvilauto.com/products/mustang-69-111/passenger-side-clock-dash.html

Car looks sick I'm doing a 69 loosely based Shelby Coupe as well.

I picked up the Global West SFC and will be installing them next week. I'll let you know.

How have you guys set up your AOD transmissions? Street, Strip, Drag etc.? Any of you guys run these in your cars. Will it stand up and have any longevity when paired with a >500 horsepower. I am looking at a Keith Craft 427w to go in my 69 coupe with: Horsepower: 585 hp Torque: 565 ft/lbs Block: Fully Machined Dart Block Crankshaft: Eagle 4340 Steel Stroke: 4.000" or 4.100" Connecting Rods: Eagle H-Beam 6.200" Pistons: Mahle Forged Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller Camshaft: Comp Cams Custom Hydraulic Roller Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hydraulic Roller Cylinder Heads: CNC Brodix KC 210 or AFR 205 Valves: SI 2.08/1.6 Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller Intake: Edelbrock Victor JR Port Matched Waterpump: Edelbrock Aluminum Carburetor: Demon Oil Pump: Melling High Volume Oil Pan: Moroso Front Balancer: Pioneer SFI Ignition: MSD Distributor w/Keith Craft Logo Moroso Plug Wires Gaskets: Felpro Fasteners: ARP Compression: 10:1 Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Pulley: March Chrome system I have a Currie custom rear end set up with: Style:9 Inch Ford (9IN) Ratio:3.50S Spline:31 Differential:TrueTrac Case:9+ Nod Race Pinion Support:Currie Alloy Yoke:1310-Short 9+

In the early stages of my 69 complete rebuild. Car is getting soda blasted rite now. Trying to narrow down which trans I want for the car. Going to run an automatic on this build. My engine will be a 427w that should tap out around 540hp according to my engine builders previous builds. The standard 3 speed feels very underwhelming given the attention to detail of this build. Was originally going to run a C6 but I would love a 4 speed or if they even make something with overdrive. I'm located in Southern California. Budget is around $2,900.00 for this piece of the build.

Paint first. I would have tasken everything down (suspension, brakes, and steering) painted then did your upgrades. Over spray sucks.

I went the Dakota Digital route http://www.restorationperformance.com/servlet/the-173101/1969-Ford-Mustang-VHX/Detail

Looking to get the backround noise and heat out of my car. Not sure what is ultimately more effective? Lizard Skin or Dynamat. Any suggestions, horror stories, or testimonials?

BFG G Force TA 245/45/17 MB Old School 17 inch Cant wait to get my car back from soda blasting, priming, sealing, paint, and glass.

Had a bad experience with CJ as well. WIll never order from them again.

Gutted the interior today

how do I make the pics smaller? sorry guys lots of detail though.