Rsanter
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Posts posted by Rsanter
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That is a different or newer version of the willwood MC than I have.
there is no way that one I got was going to fit
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There are two things to look at with a rocker arm.
ration and center to center dimensions
a rocker arm that is 2” on one side and 1” on the other has the same ration as one with 4” on one side and 2” on the other. But they obviously won’t be interchangeable
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On 10/11/2015 at 1:08 PM, TurtleRacing said:Does anyone know where I can find this sleeve and clip?
Odds are I have one or more of the sleeves
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19 hours ago, barnett468 said:One off a 1970 mustang with a 351 cleveland may work if you shorten the rad end of the hose a bit.
Good point.....try this first
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When a car is that far gone, I prefer to get my hands on another car (Coupe) or at least a front clip and graph that whole section on.
another front clip will be all jigged up to factory dimensions and greatly shortens the work,to be done.
last one I did I used the whole front clip, firewall and the whole floor all the way back to the seam unde the back seat. Not o Loy was it cheaper than buying all the parts but once you have the two sections lined up you can see with high confidence that everything is where it should be.
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I have already been there.
i have a 69 conv. I upgraded to the willwood MC to find it is longer than the original and will not fit with the stock booster.
the booster I used is from TUFF STUFF. Got it from summit racing.
it is a non concourse version of the one used or the boss429 originally.
it works great, leaves more room in that area and makes the car easier to work on in that area.
bolts right on, but....
you will need to modify a spacer or slug that goes in the back of the MC piston for it to work properly with the rod in the booster.
there is a tool to measure this with but I just did carefull measuring with my calipers.
i also used my lathe to shorted the piece that came with the MC (for this purpose) to make it the right length.
overall not too hard to do and overall a good upgrade.
let me know if you need more info
bob
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On 8/21/2019 at 7:43 PM, danno said:I am not worried about the heat, as I am just a daily driver on the freeways in Minneapolis. What are the more aggressive pads? It is good to hear they have the potential to work better. It was about 20 years ago I fought the same problem with the power steering. I did all the upgrades and got everything as good as it could be. In 1969 it was probably ok, but not in 1999. So I installed rack and pinion, and it was the greatest thing I have done to improve driveablity. I just do not want to spend a whole bunch of time and money, and still have something substandard. So it sounds like the brakes will be better than the steering. I will let you know how it goes.
Look at the options for pads you have. They have pads that are classified as performance.
i went to brembo pads for my f150 and love them.
stay away from ceramics, just don’t like them.
a good semimetalic will be great, several,companies make good ones and give you several options for street, street performance, and track/racing
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First we have to ask why you want to swap?
if you want more HP then go with a stroker.
If you want the look of an FE engine....well there is no replacement
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Too little information.
what do you want to use the car for?
what engine?
how much HP and torque?
what trans?
what gears are in there now?
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Stay with stock for now.
upgrade to more aggressive pads and look at adding drilled and slotted rotors to handle the heat better.
there are upgrades that can be made later if you find it is not enough.
in my 69 conv, I have factory front disc brakes and added rear disc.
if I don’t warn you or you are not buckled, I can put your nose to the windshield operating the brakes with my big toe
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Use a small,PLC, a relay controller, or a couple relays and a couple limit switches is all it would take.
you could even connect a remote control to it
bob
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NOS or good used
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been cleaning the shop to buy a 4 post lift and came across this.
those that know me know I love having equipment so I couldn’t pass it up.
ranger brake lathe
will turn rotors and drums and will also turn flywheels
Grabber70Mach and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
On 7/4/2019 at 11:28 PM, RPM said:I think I'm the only one who didn't feel the quake, as I was driving at the time.
I didn’t feel the first one either, I was driving back from my shop.
the large aftershock in the evening I felt, I was on my couch and couldn’t believe how long it lasted.
no damaged nothing even fell over, the blinds were rattling a bit.
for a moment I though someone turned the vibrate feature on for the couch, then I remembered I didn’t get that option
bob
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If you have a friend in a larger city that will hold the car for you, you can take it there and list it locally there, then setup people to come see it on the weekends (so you can be there)
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I installed a 24” wide AC radiator into my no AC car for added cooling.
was an easy swap.
yes you can go to a 70 setup, you will have to change the timing pointer location and the easy thing would be to add a timing tape to the damper so you don’t have to replace that, however you could replace the damper and all the pulleys to make the 70 setup on your 69 engine
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You can also trim the bottom of the seat frame a bit
bob
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Rubber end seals are great
better than the cork.
one trick I learned over the years is that the cork squeezes out because it grows as you tighten down the intake.
i trim the ends shorter and put a glob of silicone at the end and have never had the cork squeeze out when doing that
bob
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Not the same
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5 hours ago, rittenrotton said:So I decided to try the Shelby drop using a template I bought from daze cars. Once I got all the suspension removed and installed the template, I started with a 17/32-inch bit and drilled the initial hole (but thinking back on it now I guess my mistake was removing removing the template which I did thinking in I would have the same size template holes for the other side.) After drilling the 1/2" holes, i found out that they are not aligned correctly. They are just a tiny bit too apart from each other. I'm just curious what I can do to correct this without making a bigger mess? Should I drill one of the holes out to be 9/16"? Or should I just go with control arms like Specialty Products Company Adjustable Control Arms which give the Shelby drop from the factory holes?
Round file or use a die grinder
if you make the hole larger all around that effects the side to side and the up and down location.
just elongate the hole a little one the one you drilled a bit off till you can slide the bolts in
Bob
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Manual drums, power disc brakes were only available on the L code 6cyl engine cars
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There is a specification for the amount of torque required to slip the clutches in those track loc units
many people just guess at it and put it together and hold the two halves together with bolts.
then do the torque test.
if too high torque, thinner shims
if too low torque, thicker shims
bob
Front suspension ideas...
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
All depends on what you will be using the car for....
street cruzer
drag racing
road racing
etc