Jump to content

Midlife

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,910

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    152

Posts posted by Midlife

  2. Posted · Report reply

    What did the police officer say to her navel?

     

     

    You're under a vest!

    ___________________________________________

    Why do birds in the northern hemisphere fly south for the winter?

     

     

    Walking is much harder.

     

    Thank you, Thank you very much!

    bigmal reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    The accessory 3 prong plug mentioned above was an option, so it might not exist on Wally A's car.  I think what he is looking for is a RUN-only line that he can just plug into.  There is no such thing on a 69 or 70.  You'll need to find a green/red wire coming from the ignition plug and tap into that, or find the ACC 3 prong plug fuse buss extender.  I just got 3 of them in stock.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    That fusible link is not a factory correct 1970, as in my experience (close to 125 1970 refurbishments), I have never seen the green flag on any of the power leads: just a black wire, perhaps with some writing on it.  The flags first appear in 1971. 

    There is another useful thing about fusible links that I failed to mention above: if the car is sitting in a garage, not on, and somehow a massive short is initiated, the fusible link will prevent current flowing from the battery and thus the rest of the wiring is protected to a certain degree.  It will definitely stop an electrically induced fire when the car is off or the key is in ACC or RUN but with the engine not running.  Perhaps that was the reason it was implemented. 

    As far as wire gauges go, what Ford used and documented is somewhat inconsistent with what is typically found today in wire sizes.  I suspect there was either a change in AWG specifications or Ford used a slightly different gauging system that what is currently used today.  When I buy 18 gauge wiring, it is somewhat thicker than the Ford product when the insulation is removed.  The fusible link does appear to be about 2-4 AWG sizes less than the main power line.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Fusible links were put in place to protect the battery and nothing else.  In 1970, they were introduced, but if the car was running, there was still a hard wire from the alternator output to the entire car.  The fusible link was the last 9 inches of wire from the alternator to the battery.  If the link blew (let's say due to an overcharging alternator), the car will still run and the remaining wires would or would not handle the current load.  When the car stopped running, the battery would now be out of the circuit (due to blown fusible link) and you wouldn't be able to provide power to the ignition switch to start the starter. 

    In 1971, Mustangs still had fusible links, but those cars that had ammeter still had a hard-wire path from the alternator directly to all wiring on the car.  Those with indicator lamps that happen to blow the fusible link would immediately die.

    Fusible links were not well implemented, IMHO.

    As for your charging problems, Mach1Driver knows more than I regarding this.  Once you get away from a stock system, I'm as clueless as Seattle.  I agree that with a voltmeter, you can disable the indicator lamp.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Ummm...pin 4 on a tach dash car is ground, on a non-tach dash car, pin 4 is red/white (temperature sending unit). 

    Why don't you have the eyelet ground?  Does your pin 4 have two black wires?  Your blowing fuses doesn't make sense, and since you don't have a ground eyelet, someone has likely severely monkeyed with your wiring.  Taken together with your earlier posting (and e-mails to me), I personally would not want to power up your car at this time nor drive it.  Your wiring deserves to be pulled out and gone through and put back to stock configuration.  Something is dramatically wrong and you could be in danger of starting an electrical fire.  Yeah, I know, that sounds awful, but it is the truth.  I've been doing electrical work on these cars for 14 years, and your descriptions puts the hair up on the back of my neck.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:

    Ok, backup lights actually work - 4-pin firewall connector wasn't fully seated after troubleshooting.

    Right rear brake/flasher filament problem points to turn signal switch since swapping left and right wires in the connector moves the problem from one side to the other. Bought some new pins, a pin pusher and crimper. Plan on removing the pins from the mating connector to buzz, inspect, and repair as needed. Still have the old switch to use as a mule also.  I will figure this out before the snow flies :)

    If anyone is interested (and so I can remember, too):

    Male pins (TE AMP 61116-1)

    Female pins (TE AMP 61314-1)

    Pusher  (don't worry about it being a GM tool, it works great for the Mate-n-Lok style pins. Cheap on eBay. Midlife says the innards from a BIC pen work, too)

    Crimper (any Mate-n-Lok compatible 18 ga. to 24 ga. crimper should work)

    Ummm...those are the smaller pins.  I believe you want the TE AMP A1421-ND  and A1420-ND

    69RavenConv reacted to this

  23. Posted · Report reply

    7 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

    Swapped an 86 thunderbird 5.0 and aod into a 78 ford pick up in 1987 ,i used Fords wire diagram ,if i remember right 4 wires runs the whole thing from the original wiring harness from the thunder bird . I had to look at it a couple of days when i finally figured out only a few wires ran the motor 

    Not the green/red wire?

×
×
  • Create New...