ramair351

i bought this 70 mach assembled like this... what the plate sticking towards the tire and what is the hole for? is it supposed to be there?

mid 70s torino's had calipers like that

congratulations on keep your car all these years!!! maybe get some of those little panoramic adhesive mirrors that go on the existing outside mirrors. also you can get rear facing cameras and the display shows up in your inside rear view mirror. that could be mounted unobtrusively.

here is a 70 in original condition for sale near me. standard interior no tach. cool color! http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/ctd/3722447138.html

looks like i would need the kit for sn95 brakes, since i have the small bearing setup. I emailed him some questions, hopefully he will respond and we can do some business. thanks for the info.

i dont fault anyone for buying a completed car, its what i did too. i have restored them plenty when i was younger. but now with two small kids and two elderly mothers to take care of who has time anymore? when i get an extra half hour a week of 'me' time, i would rather drive/wash/enjoy a car, than sand bondo or bust my knuckles.

unless i have a garage as big as a hanger, space will always be an issue. you are lucky!

is there contact marks from the caliper on the inside of the magnum? you can buy a 1/4 inch spacer to go between your hub and wheel if needed

how did the back of the crank look when you did the rear main seal? any grooves? also did you stagger the two piece rear seal?

complete with rods and knob. seems to work ok, some minor rust on the chrome shaft, may clean up. think its from a 66 stang $25

that looks like a decent kit, ebay has a really universal kit for $395, but in the end not sure what kind of brakes i have. were the continental parts readily available via parts stores? how much was the ultra stang kit?, i dont see prices on his website

Pm sent

i am going to pull the trigger on one of these kits soon...

bump

thanks Herman. that is what i did also to my 73 torino. i think its the best way. the part number of the terminal you need is D8TZ-14474-A.

the car has an Ignitor 1 in it right now, designed to use with a resistance wire. i am thinking of going to a MSD plug and play billet distributor, and that would require 12v.

are there any threads how to remove the resistor wire from your ignition harness, so you can have a full 12v at the coil?

tell me what you have! pros.. cons... i have some fairly wide rear tires, i see some mount forward of the axle, some behind.... I am not into autocrossing, but would like it to handle well.

what brand is the aluminum water pump?

i added the spoiler only, i think its just enough without the back end looking too busy. i think its cleaner without

i have the 600 in mine, with a tall hurst shifter. it shifts nice , short and crisp. no complaints

the gears at 11 and 5 oclock in the picture, are old race parts called 'dead lockers' and only have a couple teeth, look closely you can see. same principle as welding the gears back in the day. just had an old timer look at this pig

i have the maier one piece spoiler/valance, its nice

so i got this friend who normally puts together all my rear ends, well race season is coming up and he is swamped. i figure, i got manuals, and i can get any tools i need, i am going to give it a shot, once i get schooled a little. I had wanted to put together a 3.50 plus gear for the mach one, so i dug this old pig out of my shed. anyhow i start looking at it, its 31 spline, cool that's what i need. 3.89 gears, another cool. I have never dived into one of these, and i know enough to tell clutches from a spool. but what the heck am i looking at here? why do some of the spider gears not have teeth in spots?

ok, thats a great picture. i see both connections. what is the fat single in connector next to the trans wire?