shaun071

This is a similar set up to what I've fitted to my coupe. Here in Australia to get registration you have to fit inertia reel lap/sash belts in the front, lap/sash in the rear and child restraint points as well. The belts have to be ADR approved which basically rules out any belts not manufactured in Australia. My belts with drop links were made by Hemco and they supply kits with all the mounts required. I'm pretty sure Hemi Performance get their belts from Hemco.

Here's some pics of the adaptors I made

I've used 1"x1" thick wall tube for an adaptor between the original seat tracks and the 03 Falcon ute seats I'm using.By luck once you remove the electric tilt mechanism the bolt pattern is only 1/8 inch different in width to the bolt pattern in the floor. Bolt the tube to the seat then bolt the track to the tube. They sit around 2 inches back from original. Since the photo I fitted new seat platforms from a fastback that are about 1.5" lower and moved back 1 inch from original position. I'm 5"11 and found it an effort to get behind the wheel lol.

Thanks for the responses guys

I recently bought a set of roof rail rubbers for my 69 coupe. The vendor sent out rubbers for a fastback instead of the correct coupe rubbers. While I know the roofline and rear quarter glass is different, will these rubbers actually fit or be modified to fit? My problem is I had them sent out from the USA here to Australia and its a pain in the a$$ to return them. I've already had issues with this company- it took them 4 months to send out my order and I'd rather not have to deal with them again and wait who knows how long to get the correct item sent out. Thanks Shaun

I see the car has electric windows. Have you changed over to 70 bolt in glass or have you modified the 69 window regulators? I'm looking at having electric windows in my 69 coupe but have been put off by having to change the glass over. $$$$.

Mikestang, your figures are roughly what I was looking to pay here in Australia. The only advantage here is I can pick up a complete 99-02 Falcon for around $1000-1500 with a low mileage 5.0 thats factory fitted with GT40P heads, explorer manifold, 24lb injectors, matching MAF etc and 290hp stock. I have one of these in a 02 Falcon XR8 ute (ranchero) and it goes very well in a car that weighs 4000lb. In a light Mustang it should have enough for me!! I was looking at buying a new harness from summit for $499. I think for Kaspar the factory set up would be difficult if not impossible to do on the cheap as anything with a 5.0 won't be just lying around in wrecking yards in Denmark.

The Black spi sounds like an option!! My problem with a high dollar paint job is crappy roads around where I live and wanting to have the Mustang as a daily driver. Stone chips will happen no matter what I do. I've always liked the matt/satin black look. Stealthy!!

I'm looking at efi as well, most likely a 5.0 conversion and using mainly stock injection components (89-93 mustang or 90's australian Falcon) with an aftermarket wiring harness. The engine will be mostly stock just a mild cam and a bit more compression. Has anyone got any info and whether this would be any better than the aftermarket systems listed above? From a cost side I've figured it will be cheaper but you lose the "classic" look under bonnet. I'm not too worried about that as my car is a restomod. Any thoughts??

I'm using H4 halogen for the outer lights and H1 halogen for the inner lights and use HID conversions to suit. Relays are a good idea for ensuring you get a full 12V at the ballasts which improves performance of the HIDs. For the outer lights get a bi-xenon HID kit as the bulb never actually shuts down going from low to high beam- the bulb uses a solenoid to reposition itself in the light to change beam pattern. This way you still have light while the inners kick in.

are there any scratches etc on the mating flares? AN fittings are used in the aircraft industry and from my experiences (I work on helicopters) any scratches etc will cause leaks. Also look for poor fitment of the collars or damage near the collar area on the pipes. Also if the regulator is a cheapo the flare angle may be different to a proper AN fitting

Have a look on ebay I got a kit with the boot and new mounting rubbers for the ram from mustangs of melbourne for about $20 including freight. Nice to see another Queenslander on here!!

It aired here in Australia a couple of weeks ago. If they killed off the fake drama it would be ok. Given what they spent on the buying/rebuilding the 302 surely they could have resurrected the 351 in the same time and cost??

I've recently fitted halogen lights to my 69 coupe and the improvement is amazing. The plug for the inner high beam lights will have to be cut off and the power wire fitted to the bulb and the earth wire fitted to the earth point on the headlight body. Make sure you connect these two wires the right way as you will trip the headlight switches breaker if they are back to front. I'm running relays, one for high beam and one for low beam. Bulbs are 60/55 watt for outer lights and 55watt for inners.

Was there a clicking coming from the headlight switch? Also do you have higher wattage headlights fitted? I had a similar problem when I converted my lights over to halogen lights. The headlight switch has an inbuilt circuit breaker and if you fit higher output lights without fitting relays to the headlight circuit the breaker will trip when you turn high beam on.

From memory the AOD is about 2 inches wider at the pan and the pan is longer than a C4. The headers I had were hard up against the transmission pan and the shift linkage was sitting between the LH pipes. Mine were 4 into 1's with 3 inch collectors located just behind the crossmember. If the headers you are looking at have the collector/flange around the bell housing area they should"t need any mods to fit but the section beside the gearbox may need to be modified when you fit the AOD.

If they are long tubes (4into1 or tri-y) they won't clear the AOD. I had this problem when I fitted an AOD to an Aussie Falcon with 1-7/8 inch 4 into 1 long tubes. The transmission pan is wider than a 4 speed and the pipes cut in close to the transmission. If the headers are tri-y's the rear sections can be modified to clear.

You could wire the fans so that relay draws power from the coil and also ground from the negative terminal of the coil. Wiring it this way the fans will only run when the engine is actually running. This is commonly used on electric fuel pumps and lpg fuel supply solenoids as a safety feature so the fuel supply is only available when the engine is physically running in case of an accident or fuel line rupture.

Great work Mike! I always check on your build. You're build is a lot like mine- doing most of it yourself at home with basic tools, patience and heaps of enthusiasm.

Hi, Does anyone know whether you can buy a baby seat cover with the Mustang logo or a running horse on it? I plan on taking my 6 month old daughter out to car shows etc when my Mustang is completed and think a cover for the baby seat would be pretty cool Thanks Shaun

I used a ratcheting wrench that has an adjustable head so you can change the angle. Made life very easy

Thats what I was getting at but didn't explain very well. There is a benefit with a roller cam but if you are only wanting a mild grind the extra expense (nearly double the price) of a roller may not be justified over a flat tappet.

you don't necessarily need a roller cam unless you are thrashing it out to 6000rpm on a regular basis. You will need to change valve springs, pushrods etc to suit the particular cam you buy. Most cam manufacturers have a cam selection service- enter the data about your car- carburetor cfm, gearing weight etc and they will make suggestions from their range. Personally, I would get a cam with about 10 degrees more exhaust duration than intake and keep the duration @ 0.050 lift under 230 degrees. More than that you need to make other changes and it'll become a bit of a pig to drive. The cam suggested by 69ravenconv is about right on the money- just that a roller isn't really necessary.

I was looking at getting the carbon faced dials myself. It seems to "suit" the dash more than the lighter set, a little less rice racer. My 390- do a search on ebay for vhx-69f-mus and you should find the dash

This is handy to know as I'll be doing a power disc conversion in the next few weeks. It was the one thing I hadn't thought of.