kidsStang

Well, if you've read my last post I described problems associated with the upgrade to electronic ignition change over from stock points. well the old Pink wire was the problem with the engine dying upon the lights being turned on. But...Having corrected this, now tail lights and side marker lights and interior and dash lights flicker faintly when lights are on. then as I messed with the ground wire on the taillights and headlights,with engine off but ignition switch on for about 5 minutes i heard the sound of my electronics frying from within the distributor. upon removal the smell of fried electronic confirmed it. prior to all this without the headlights turned on brake lights turn signal/lights all worked correctly. Any Ideas?????

something weird has been going on with my car, if the engine is started and running and I then turn on the headlights the engine dies, if i rev it up and turn on the lights they come on but no taillights or instrument lights but the engine keeps running. thought it might have been the headlight switch but replaced it and no change.just upgraded to electronic ignition but drove it a couple times after converting it and had no issues. so i'm baffled.

I'm taking on the same project this spring so I'm interested in ideas.I thought of filling the area in front of the rear wheel wells with some kind of sound deadening material,then walling off the area behind the seat.

1st thing i'd do at least power conversion with disk brakes up front. 2nd convert to 5 speed. 3 rd change to rack and pinion, especially if current system is worn. These changes really change the whole driving personality of the car for some thats good others bad. but if one is really concerned about maintaining that 45 yr old driving memory, just step back and look at the car or watch everyone look at it as you drive by. Oh and i'd get one of those console cup holders, people from 69 wern't as concerned about dehydration as these days

Looks like I'm outnumbered here too, But I switched out my power steering setup to a Unisteer power rack and have no regrets, I,m running a 351 with T5 tranny and the installation and added room make it a breeze to work on. I think I lost some of my turning radius, but not sure cause I changed tire size,and the unisteer pump makes too much noise, but the overall drivability is much greater than my old setup. And it dosen't leak fluid.

you cant just leave us hanging like this, What was it.

I have P245/60f 100 on front and P255/60r15 102S on rear . all 4 are 15x8

The End product looks nice, what is the price of this kit and how hard will it be to wire them up. Do they supply you with good directions on the wiring

Just picked up car from performance shop, Had my new gears with posi installed. WOW what a differance, It was okay before with the 300 gears but now everything is just right, She wants to run.

Has anyone ever added these to existing heads? looking for feedback, is it worth price? did it make big differance? It looks like a pretty simple upgrade, but then most do.

Just picked up a posi rear end with 350 gears, but gonna have to wait till after hollidays before putting in.

I'v been useing a Unisteer Power rack since april, the installation was very clean, but steering column needed 1" cut off so column had to be removed, I ended up trying hooker headers, dougs headers and hedman long tube headers the rack never was the problem with clearance. The headers always leaned against the frame rail. Ended up with shorty headers, Anyway the overall effect of the rack is nice and smooth, But turning radius greatly affected, and power steering pump makes alot of noise.

I Agree, as long as the body isn,t needing major rust repair, get all the fun stuff on so it will start,Stop and steer, Then get body done,

I had a nightmare getting any long tube headers to fit my 351W without hitting the drivers side frame rail. Tried hedman, hooker and Dougs, ending up using shorties.

So I bought new front and back bumpers and I was just wondering is there some kind of easy way to remove the front bumper, getting to the bolts iside the bumper looks impossible. do the brackets need to be removed from the frame?