FrozenMonkey

If you don't have the patience for bullshit like me, I'd just take it to a auto glass place and have them glue it in. You probably won't have the luck I had but my drivers one came loose and the shop was going to charge $20 but just said whatever its free, took them 15 minutes. They did a good job on it too. Need to have them do the passenger now, its come out of its front channel. If you want to find out what year the motor is, I believe there should be a serial number stamped either above the oil filter plug or above where the starter motor is. Post that up here and we should be able to decode the vin (or google can for you if you want to find out yourself). Might not be a big deal but could be fun to know where it came from.

Man that is so beautiful work you guys are doing. Wish I had the skills and tools to do that to my car.

I've heard great things about US radiator. If you don't go the custom route they are probably one of the best ways to go.

To answer some questions; I have been putting in 91 octane pure gas all summer and have noticed how much better my car runs, although it obviously didn't prevent vapor lock. Not sure if its worth the extra 50 cents per gallon and the inconvenient location of the only station in the city that carries it though. Also, I put on a DEI heat blanket over the under hood fuel line. It used to be very hot to the touch but now I'd say its not over 90 degrees. The engine isn't over heating and according to the stock temp gauge, is right smack in the middle where it always is when it's at operating temp. I've been wondering about doing the techline ceramic coating on my current headers. I've heard lots of good things about it. If I can inspect my headers closely and be sure they aren't warped at the flanges I may go this route. Total cost would be much lower than sending them out to get coated or buying a new set of headers that may or may not have problems fitting.

I've noticed that all the manufacturers have their own bracket to drop the PS down that they require to install. From what I can tell, mine doesn't have one so it seems odd that whatever headers are on there now didn't require it. Whatever the case, I'll be buying one for one less potential problem. Biggest thing in helping with the vapor lock was getting the 1" phenolic spacer on there. It completely stopped the problem until these beastly summer temps kicked in. As far as the header wrap, it looks like crap and in many cases has caused premature failure of headers through rust, warping, cracking and so on.

Alright. The vapor lock at a busy intersection is the last straw. With these 110+ degree days and uncoated long tube headers the car just is not happy. Engine is a 351w with an Edelbrock carb and 1" Phelonic spacer and electric fuel pump. Trans is an FMX. Power steering and manual brakes. I've eliminated all the other causes of vapor lock I was experiencing when I bought the car and am able to drive the car no problems in the cooler weather, but now it looks like its time to spend real money and fix the problem, hopefully, for good. I don't have a lot to throw at my car so I've been looking at the cheaper priced headers (yeah, no $1000 FPA headers) but want to know your experiences with them fitting on your cars. I'm down to three different sets from Flowtech, Hooker and Headman. They all appear to be the exact same design based off of Summits photos but that can be deceiving, with the only difference being that the Flowtech's primaries are 1 1/2" instead of the 1 5/8" of the other two. All of them claim to be "direct fit" but which ones really are the easiest to fit? I obviously don't want to beat the living :shit: out of them to make em fit or have headaches with hitting the power steering, tranny mounts, ect. This is my only car and while I don't drive often, I drive enough that I can't afford to have my car down for weeks on end trying to sort out fitment issues. Taking off my current ones, shipping them out and having them coated and sent back would cost more than just buying any of those headers so that is out of the question. So is header wrap for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance for any stories, good or bad, that you have.

I've heard of a lot of problems with these guys complete lack of customer service. Some people get their orders with no problems but the people that try to contact them never reach anyone. I was going to order a harness to update to H4 headlights from them until I did some searching on VMF about this company.

I was going to go from electric to mechanical a few months ago but from the advice I got on this board I checked for the eccentric. For some reason whoever installed the cam didn't put the eccentric back on. Saved me a ton of hassle and just went with another electric. Sure hate the noise they make though.

I was going to go from electric to mechanical a few months ago but from the advice I got on this board I checked for the eccentric. For some reason whoever installed the cam didn't put the eccentric back on. Saved me a ton of hassle and just went with another electric. Sure hate the noise they make though.

Fantastic work! That black with the matte hood looks really slick.

Fantastic work! That black with the matte hood looks really slick.

Assuming you have a 4v intake, yes it will work, although a 770 is pretty big for a stock setup. You'd need a pretty radical engine to really need to have that size of carb. 600-650 cfm will yield better results, IMO.

Assuming you have a 4v intake, yes it will work, although a 770 is pretty big for a stock setup. You'd need a pretty radical engine to really need to have that size of carb. 600-650 cfm will yield better results, IMO.

Here's something from Car Craft that I like to leave on these kind of questions.

denny's post prompted me to do a little digging. This page is chock full of info on the issue and lists a ton of thermostats and their part numbers. This very well could be your problem. http://www.351c.net/parts/cleveland-parts-catalog/cooling-system-parts/proper-351c-thermostat/

Do you have a fan shroud? If not, get one, it makes a huge difference. Also, you want your fan to be about 3/4" from the radiator and sticking about halfway out of the shroud. You don't need anything fancy, just grab one from cjpony, NPD, MU, or whatever your preferred vendor is.

I believe they were meant to be interior color. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I just haven't seen them any other way.

I've been doing some research on this recently and believe I can give you some good info. Here is a kit for our cars. You can piece together your own kit for less though. http://www.reenmachine.com/shop/product.php?productid=16136&cat=0&page=1 I haven't heard of anyone having any difficulty doing the switch. It's pretty straightforward provided you buy the right conversion relay kit. Make sure the one you get has a fuse or breaker on it. The stock fuse setup obviously can't handle this kind of power from the headlights. I think the only thing you may have to do is cut out a bit of the headlight bucket to make the new housings fit but thats no biggie.

Is it a backfire or an afterfire? There is a difference. Backfire is an ignition in the intake. Sounds like afterfire to me, which would likely mean you are running rich and somehow igniting the unburnt fuel in your exhaust. Your timing could also be advanced too much or you could have a really free flowing exhaust. I'd check your A/F ratio's and timing and go from there. As an example, my 99 Trans Am sounded fine until I added longtubes, deleted the cats and did a 3" exhaust. It would pop a bit when decelerating, but A/F and timing were dead on.

Do you have an update on this with your LED lights installed? I'm probably going to be doing this soon and curious how it looks with the sequential LEDs.

IIRC factory tilt didn't start until the 70 model year. I think before that all they had were tilt away wheels. Flaming River makes nice columns but they aren't cheap.

It's back in the car with the dash all back in place or I'd show pics, but its snapped in the middle of that bend. The epoxy worked long enough through the test runs for me to be satisfied but sure enough failed after I got the car buttoned back up.

Has anyone fabricated their own out of metal or used something more reliable and cheap than the $30+ plastic ones that everyone is selling? Mine is snapped in half and even epoxy wouldn't hold it back together. The price they charge for this piece is downright highway robbery IMO and would definitely like to know if there is a better way to fixing this part.

Looks like a good start to me. Are you looking into SCCA autocross type stuff or just having fun driving like a maniac in "mexico"? If doing SCCA stuff make sure you check out their page and see what things your car must have to run and what mods will put it in what class. You'll need a coolant overflow tank for sure if you don't have one already, along with a proper battery tie down system. And don't forget tires! The best mod you can do for autocross is get a set of tires that grip like mad.

Fine condition, 351w, single plane aluminum intake. Looks like the P.O. polished parts of the outside (runners, thermostat port). $75+ shipping. Could use a little cleaning up but otherwise looks good.