JayEstes
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Posts posted by JayEstes
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Just a quick 2.5hrs . It takes me about 30mins to get to the island, and I drove the majority of the sea-wall and back once there. Wish I had been an hour earlier - that would have been better timing.
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All,
Sunday night I turned a "I'll go take a drive" whim into a decent little drive. I realized I hadn't had this old car back to Galveston island since probably the late 1980's. Took some shots along the way, thought I would share (obviously, filter applied to this first one). It got too dark, too early this evening, but a few nice shots in there. Still need to go down there and get some sunset pics. I hit some rain on the way back tho - now the old girl needs a wipe down.
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I have a stock 302 system and I put 2.25 dual exhaust on from this company:
https://www.precisionexhaust.com/
I really liked working with them, they can custom make some of it, but as I recall, alot of the puzzle is to figure out what are you doing with headers/manifolds.
I would say that my exhaust is a quiet system. Disappointingly quiet sometimes - sounds nice from behind the car, but just not a lot of rumble otherwise. I just bought a stock exhaust system with mufflers that they recommended. It has an H-pipe too.
It's very hard to pick the muffler that sounds right to you, buying a mail order exhaust like this, unless you know what a particular muffler / pipe /engine combo sounds like ahead of time. I took a chance, and mine came out quieter than I wanted, but it's a nice system, and the thing bolted right up (bends were perfect for my car) absolutely no problem. I believe the guys at precision exhaust really know what they are doing. My cost was about the same as the system you linked, shipped to TX from CT.
Jay
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I'd recommend getting a set of these plastic door panel removal tools:
I got these as a gift and it gives several tools for getting stuff like the subject switch out without worrying about the paint. This whole set is only $10 as opposed to the 1 metal tool you can get at advance auto.
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20 hours ago, gordonr said:There is another option. Use the red wire feeding the w/wiper motor. The choke should draw 2 amps up on initial power up then drop to less than .5 amps after 5 minutes. Randy at Midlife made up a small harness to plug in between the motor and the harness with the splice to feed the choke so no damage to the original harness. I was obsessed about not having it show.
Now I love that option! This is where I scabbed into the connection (for temporary I told myself) on our 71 that has a Holley + elec choke. I had the thought it would be nice to have an interim connection in that joint, but no idea where to get those connectors. I should known Randy would have them....
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11 minutes ago, Midlife said:1971's have the female bullet for this: it's a white female bullet with red/yellow wire, located near the engine gauge feed plug.
now, see, THAT.... I can understand. What about 69s? Any of this? Apologies to the thread starter if I am going too far afield - not my intention.
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OK I could have been more clear. Where can I find +12V wire that they were referring to, which carries power to the solenoid, in the engine bay wiring? Odd thing is my son's 71 doesn't have this solenoid either, but someone replaced his orig carb with a Holley, so I suppose it went away with the old carb. I still haven't seen the wire I don't think.
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Anybody got a pic of the anti-backfire solenoid, and a part number - I've never heard of that or seen it before? I'm pretty sure my car doesn't have it, but wondering if there is harnessing for it in the engine bay. Maybe it was a 70 emissions "upgrade"?
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5 hours ago, Mike65 said:My 69 Coupe is a 11/68 Metuchen built car & has the buck tag as the above pic.
hey - you really oughta bolt that shock down.. haha!
69RavenConv reacted to this -
14 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:Ok, I found my Kevin Marti book. You're right rdmsupercobrajet, rm meant "rocker molding" at Dearborn and "remote mirror" at Metchen.
And I stand corrected, San Jose did use buck tags in 1969 but only at the very end of the production year. So very few '69s will have one but most 70s will.
Mine was bucked in June if I rem right, so that fits.
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18 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:San Jose did not use buck tags.
ah ha!! I have never heard that, and THAT explains why I don't have one. I'll be damned. Thank you.
Shep69 and Bill Bailey reacted to this -
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does anyone have a link for those super thin plastic covers that car shows use for overnight cover at a car show? I like to get one of these to keep dew off.
Just a super thin plastic with elastic around the base. Not a super tight fit, just to keep moisture and dust off.
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I'm running KYB's and feel it is one of the best additions to the suspension. I however went with everything else stock except for 2 things: a 1" front sway bar and the shelby-drop. I put in brand new stock front springs. If you have lowered the front like so many do, your spring rate can be much higher. If you have large wheels and lower rifle tires that can affect ride stiffness too. I personally find the KYB's great in a 95% stock setup.
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That’s kind of terrifying. Surprised you would shift it into drive while the engine was revving. I’d also worry about blowing the engine if it’s wide open and won’t stop.
next time to kill the engine I would pull the main coil wire. It’s easy and quick and should put an end to high speed revving.
ive had at least one incident where my car failed to start and I cranked until batt died. I charged battery and haven’t had a problem since. My suspicion for your prob is same as mine- flaky pertronix. I can’t prove it, but I wonder. Something is keeping power flowing with key off- could that be a sticky solenoid? Even though key off- it’s still engaged? Idk. Very weird.
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Can't see why it should cost $1000 to have the frame checked for alignment. I'd be a little cautious of laying out that kind of cash as I don't think anything they can find will make that big of a difference.... I haven't had that done so, I don't know. My rebuild didn't need it, the body shop got all teh panels properly aligned with a frame that had had 2 minor hits/repairs prior to my owning it.
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That's a nice concise summary Mach1. Both brief and comprehensive. If one put a cost to each item, they could likely develop a "bang-for-buck priority list". I'm guessing it would read something like this:
- Arning Drop
- Koni/Bilsteins/KYB shocks
- Sway Bar (I wouldn't go above 1in, and I'd use real rubber)
(all three of the above are about $225 total I think)
Then maybe next (guessing, but each on of these below is in hundreds of $):
- roller perches
- roller lower arms
- upper arms
Some stuff like lockout kits don't improve ride but improve tightness or reliability, so those are harder to rate. I also would put new strut rod bushing kits in. Cheap and can remove slop. Make sure not to use poly bushings in this application, I have seen pics of snapped strut rods with poly bushings here.
Another big factor is whether you are looking for street or track results. For just driving, I'm super happy with a mostly stock rebuild.
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9 minutes ago, barnett468 said:steering boxes can NOT be completely rebuilt unless you reface the gears. the gears wear which causes a lot of the play and they are not reproduced.
"rebuilding" a steering box is the same as "rebuilding" an engine by just replacing the rings and bearings and reusing the worn put crank, pistons, and cylinder bore. yes, it will make an improvement, but it will not completely fix the problem
agree. This is the main reason I didn't go in originally. But, I also didn't make any adjustments yet, and that may provide some improvement.
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Best bang for low $'s is 1 in. Sway brace. Really kills the body sway nicely. I think this is the biggest single effect on ride I made to a stock rebuild (including safety). The second biggest was KYB gas-adjust shocks. They are just right in my opinion. I did not lower the front, or cut springs, or any of that. I also did the Shelby (Arning) Drop - I think this one is a no-brainer, and quite a simple way to improve the front end geometry. I'm very happy with my "stock" front end suspension as a normal driver - it handles well on the road. I also rebuilt the entire stock power steering system, and found out it is very important to adjust or overhaul your steering box - I did not, and I have too much steering wheel slop, but other than that, I'm very happy with the entire setup.
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On 3/14/2018 at 12:57 AM, TexasEd said:I decided to order a new set of stainless lines for the front of the car. I'm planning on taking off the distribution block and cleaning it. Any tips on this? I'm nervous about what appears to be the brake light warning sensor.
OK, well I strongly recommend you rebuild the proportioning valve (brake distribution block). There is a great rebuild kit and musclecarresearch.com with fantastic instructions. Make sure you order the right rebuild kit for your distro block. I learned some hard lessons doing one, you can read about it here:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-brake-issues-don-t-let-this-happen-to-you
Lot of stuff on 7173mustangs applies to our cars, and that thread is a recounting of some issues I had. It should have some good tips on how to rebuild the block.
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On 3/14/2018 at 12:57 AM, TexasEd said:I decided to order a new set of stainless lines for the front of the car. I'm planning on taking off the distribution block and cleaning it. Any tips on this? I'm nervous about what appears to be the brake light warning sensor.
Any tips on cleaning out the rear lines, I was not planning to replace those since money is tight.
Watch out about stainless brake lines. Stainless sure sounds great, but I have heard a lot of guys saying that these lines don't seal well at the double-flair because the stainless is not as ductile. I don't have first hand knowledge of this, but this is what my research showed. Based on what reading about them I could find on this site & 7173mustangs.com, I decided to cut and re-flare my original steel line where I had to (had to get a tool and teach myself how to double-flare).
I completely removed my lines, and filled it with laquer thinner and let it soak for awhile. I blew the lines out with compressed air to finish.
Maybe another option would be to use the stainless, but install some copper "flare-savers" (a cone-shaped copper washer) for compression fittings if you can buy the right diameter, and bevel angle (I have not tried these before, but I know industry will use these to help eliminate compression coupling leaks).
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Posting all these pics is great. This will be a good thread for people to review when they encounter a similar situation.
I have a suggestion you might consider for the master cylinder depending on your sitation. I left mine bare metal when I replaced it, and I have regretted that. I live in a humid environment, so as this unit warms up and cools down, it condenses water onto it's surface. This causes a bad problem (aesthetic) with surface rust on the outside of the master cylinder. Next time I pull mine I plan to put a water proof coating such as brake-fluid-proof paint or a clear 2-stage epoxy. The rust looks terrible, and it is quite an eyesore.
Just a thought.
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On 1/9/2018 at 4:51 PM, TexasEd said:since I am digging into all 4 brakes this spring should I consider going 4 wheel disc and what would that entail? Does that mean changing out the rear axle at the same time? Or just keep it simple with rear drums?
My personal opinion is moving to disc in the rear isn't worth it. I rebuilt the rear drums (cheaply), and if I stand on it, they lock up, so it's got plenty of stopping power for that light rear end. You're probably gonna spend 300-500 to replace everything back there, and then the master cylinder is different, and the proportiing valve ($80) and, and and... I wouldn't drive the car much without disc in the front, but in the rear, in my opinion, what is there, is adequate - unless you are racing it or are putting in ABS or something.
What to use to clean the front windshield channel?.
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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As long as there is no paint around you are worried about getting ruined, after using a scraper, and a wire brush where I could, I used a scotchbrite pad soaked in lacquer thinner ("cleanup thinner" at your local paint store). As I go I have a roll of paper towels to do the final wipe down, once I get the stuff off. A gallon of thinner will go a long ways and is about $10. Scotchbrite with this solvent is "super effective" on just about anything you put it on. The scratching effects of the pad combined with the thinner are an amazing pair. It's messy, and make sure there is no good paint nearby, cause it will ruin just about any applied paint. Good luck finding any gloves that will protect your hands from this. thick PVC gloves are probably best.