TexasEd

Getting ready to rebuild my engine. It is a survivor stock 302. I have everything for it except the original carb is damaged and the heat riser tube rusted away years ago. My plan is to bore and hone the original block and then build the new engine with just the block as original. I’ll have all the old components that can be sold or donated for a restoration but just making sure to just go with my original plan. If I had a 428 or Boss 302 we would not be talking about this, it would stay original.

1969 Sportsroof owner here. Just pulling my car apart for paint and was shopping for the best sources of the roof rail stripping last night. I still have the original in mine but it is torn in a few places. Happy to help with this project.

Where's the drool emogi when you need it.

Does it hit if you remove the engine cover?

Man that sucks. You've got a lot on your plate now.

Yeah my door is the passenger side. I missed that part.

Oh and which cylinder heads are you using? Your lower end sounds just like my plans and planning on Trick Flow 11r heads.

Love those Grabbers. I have a 69 and doing a lot of the same things you are. Paint and a 347 are next and I may add the grabber stripes on it.

I might have a parts door in Texas. Still on the car but comes off in a few weeks and I still need to get my window tracks out of it

fold down rear seat? If your avatar is your car (Convertible) can you go through the rear seat? I had something like this happen to me a while back and I used the palm of my hand to push down on the lid quick (like a slap) and see if it would rebound off the rubber seal.

Starting to lean towards the 347. I have a January 1969 build car so a very early 302 block which I hear is good. I'm painting the car at the same time so I only have enough to do the engine and the T5 transmission is going to be a good deal so I'll squeeze that in too. New gears in the 8" rear is the plan instead of a new housing. I think I'll be on the edge of the T5 and the 8" but since I am more likely to have a road race track day than a 1/4 mile I think I will be ok.

Thanks. Already have RidgeRunner sail panels too. what do people use for heat and noise insulation? Afraid of the Dynamat. It doesn’t sag? Heard about lizard skin paint on. I guess you removed the fiber insulation.

I'm going to pull out my original headliner soon so any advice is welcome. From the tear in it I think it has some sort of fiberglass insulation glued to the roof. Looks like a mess with fibers falling out when I don't have the tear taped or clipped closed. Should I remove that insulation and replace it or leave it? I'll make sure to number my bows when I pull them out. I have the new headliner in a box and will learn how to install it after my car is repainted.

So there’s a washer between the end cap and the quarter?

I was going to ask the same question but taking mine off this week. I’ll add them to my next cart

No, thanks. I’m using the original top housing. It was the base/foot part that is broken. I mated the old housing with the new base.

I’m really happy with the reproduction base. The mirror housing bell is just off enough to bother me. Decent but not perfect. If anyone needs the top part I’ll make a deal.

I’ve got the fender and new pins and bushings came in a few days ago. Also have a new repop front valance. I bought a reproduction sport mirror for the side but it did not follow the same proportions as the original. I took it apart and used the original bell and the new base and put them together and it worked great. I don’t have a picture of my Frankenstein but I’ll take one. This shows the twisted base

My engine has been burning oil in at least two cylinders and misfiring in at least one so while my car is being painted I'm having the engine pulled and a local builder is going to rebuild it for me. I think this is pretty set. I've dreamed of doing something like this since I got the car in 85 but I have someone helping me put the parts together in a package that should work together. Before this was put together as a package I used to read comparisons between AFR and TFS or Air Gap vs Weiand Stealth Goal is fun to drive street machine with torque and the ability to hwy drive with lower RPMs. I want a little rumble but not a race cam that is super lopey. I'm getting a used built T5 to replace my C4 at the same time, the original builder will go through it and inspect it. Also new gears in the rear, probably 3.5 or 3.7. I already have a set of JBA shorty headers and beautiful exhaust. This kit is more expensive than I was planning but it is all top shelf stuff. Bore and hone my original 69 302 block Scat 331 rotating assembly Trick Flow 11r 170cc heads Trick Flow stage 1 cam Edlebrock RMP Air Gap intake Roller conversion new timing chain and cover Melling high volume oil pump Moroso baffled 7 qt pan probably going to replace the original distributor Builder wanted me to do a 347 and I deferred to the 331 and he is good about listening to me and pushing where he should and going with what I am comfortable with. Things that went through my head before were 351W vs 302 based stroker. Sticking with the C4 and doing gear vendors vs AOD or T5 and then this built T5 was available at a good price. T5 is supposed to go in the same spot as the C4 shifter. Engine gets pulled out in a couple of weeks and we'll order parts after the initial tear down and inspection A few things I have not decided on are replacing the starter, new alternator and what tachometer to put on the steering column. Leaning towards a Pertronix distributor with a rev limiter.

welcome back

Parts started coming in today! New front Valance, front spoiler and passenger mirror arrived from NPD today.

So I talked the shop into rebuilding the hinges on both sides. I also had a member here contact me about a fender and we have struck a deal. Bonus he is in Texas and I will go pick it up over the holidays. I love this place because I have several hard to get parts that came from members including a rear quarter extension, a power steering hose bracket and a headlight splash shield that I needed without buying the whole set.

Good questions... Drivers windows line up good but not great. It will get new felt and rubber so I don't think it matters. Passenger glass is already out and is getting a new door so I will wait to put the glass in after the door is on and painted. I'm paying them to do the trim and front/rear glass I don't want to mess with the trim and the glass is too much for me to do. I'll remove the brake lines and wiring once the engine is out. I plan to take headlights, tail lights, marker lights all off and tape up the connectors.

The advice I am trying to offer is don’t cut any wires. Mach 1 driver is also giving good advice. you can use the “I” terminal on the solenoid for the choke.

Best way to do it is use a relay with the original wire as the trigger and the voltage straight from the battery. I hooked mine up on the battery side of the solenoid.