LiLMike

National Parts Depot has them.

That explains it....Mystery solved...LOL

Check out what I just received. I haven't installed it yet but held it up to the passengers mirror and it really widens the blind spot. It makes a world of difference. It glues in with silicone. You can place it over the existing mirror or break out the old mirror and glue it on the original bracket. I think I'll just place it over the existing mirror. They say you can't use it on the drivers side and I was curious. Come to find out the mirrors are different sizes. I never knew that. The drivers mirror is larger that the passengers mirror. Who would have thunk? I got mine from MPD. Here is the link. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/glass_assy_outside_racing_mirror_convex-183515-1.html

+1 On the grounds. Don't ground a lot of things to one point either. I had grounding issues and that was the problem. i used multiple ground points, moved ground wires to different points and grounded the enging block in 3 different places. I'm good to go now.

After it dies, does it start right up or do you have to pump the accelerator a few times to get it started again? I had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump.

I used the Tinman Sub frame connectors. They are easy to install, just some minor welding. They look factory and I am very pleased with them.

Something else I have is the 69 Mustang Part & Body Illustrations. It's in PDF format and you can buy the CD or download it. Just search for ford manuals. It does have clearer pictures than the Osborn manuals. It also has a couple of things that the Osborn manuals don't have....For one, the front valance assembly.

Get all of the Jim Osborn manuals. I think we all have them.

If you look close, I have used sheet metal screws, the kind with the washer attached to them. It weighs about 1 - 2 pounds. next to nothing. It's just 1/8" sheet metal. The amp is at an angle, following the concave part of the sheet metal. I used some rubber bushings to mount it. I went with 1/8" thick sheet metal so it would be rigid enough. I did make a square box out of sheet metal at the bottom to screw the lower edge and piano hinge into. I tack welded the piano hinge onto the door then screwed the other part of the hinge in to hold it in place.c

Thanks SM69Mach. If you notice I cut out the opening with rounded corners and made the door a little larger so it would overlap the opening.

Just wanted to share what I did with my trunk. I do not have a fold down seat but needed a place to mount my amp. I used 1/8" sheet metal and had it rolled. I then cut out the door, used a piano hinge and a glove box latch. Kind of like outting a glove box in the trunk. Gives me a place to mount the amp out of the way and still use the storage space under the package tray.

Yes, the AAW wiring is labeled but sometimes they are hard to read like under the dash or a dark area somewhere in the car. Also the installation instructions are your wiring diagrams and they leave a lot to be desired where if you use the color coded painless kit, you t least know what circuit you are looking at.

I also used the AAW harness. Great product but if I had it to do over again, I would go with Painless. The Painless uses the correct wiring color code for our cars where the AAW uses what they want. Could be difficult to troubleshoot or add accessories later on.

I may need one Barnett. I have one out of a 75 Ford and after I get my interrior back together and all hooked up if it doesn't work I'll give you a shout out. It bench tested about a year ago so I am hoping.

Be careful with the kick panel speakers. I read somewhere that there was no clearance for the emergency brake with a lot of speakers.

Be careful, like C. aseyrhe stated, once the're gone, the're gone. That radio for instance is very rare. They sell for $500 to $600. Only made 2 years, 69 & 70. The other years are different but do look basically the same.

Not sure about the 3d thing. Yes, wallet burn is an occupational hazard when getting our Mustangs the way we want them...LOL

Give FPA a call. Easy to deal with and they have just about everything you would want. Not the cheapest but they are high quality and no fitment issues. I have a 351w (Stroked out to 393) with a 4r70w tranny and power steering. They told me that I needed a drop bracket for my PS control valve. I got theirs every thing went together real easy.

It is a custom badge. I used their 427 Cobra badge as a base and told them I wanted 393 Stroker where the 427 was and Mach 1 where the Cobra was. I also had to resize it. Mine is 1" high and 3 1/2 " long. I also had to make it 1/4" thick to accommodate the posts because I wanted it bolted on. The threads are 10-32. I forgot how long the studs are and the spacing but I got that info from measuring my old 351 badge. Just get all your info and call them with your order. It takes 8 to 10 weeks because they wait to cut more than 1. Like I said not cheap at all. My 2 badges were about $400!

Thank You

Here is my new Hood Scoop Badge. Got it at http://www.billetbadges.com It was not cheap but something I really wanted to set things off and be different.

It was a local guy my mechanic knows in Greenfield, Indiana. I can get his number if you like?

I used a universal fluid cooler from Summit Racing. It is a finned cylinder cse and I ran the tranny liness through the radiator first and then the return through the cooler and back to the tranny. I needed a shorter drive shaft with my 4R and had an aluminum one made. That was only about $180. Turned out really well.

Now I really like them. Wonder where you would get then anodized?

I like those hinges Fvike but worried about the opening height as you stated.