Wycked69

If they are for a Fastback, by all means send me some photo's. I have no problem cleaning them up. you can email them to me if you like. I will send you a PM with my email address

Bob, please look and see if you have them and let me know. (tried to send you a PM but I get an error message you cant receive any new messages. Most likely your mailbox exceeds more than 50 messages)

Dave, If Dynacorn makes them for their body shells, I'd like to see them. Every Dynacorn 69 body shell photo I've looked at did not have them. They make the roof rail drip channel but I have not seen the weather strip channel. I've built many stamping and forming dies in my younger day but I've never built roll form dies or tooling.

I'm sure we have all asked this question multiple times but has anyone heard if someone is looking to produce the stainless steel roof rail weatherstrip channel for the 69 - 70 sportsroof and or possible the 65-66 fastback. They make them for the 67-68 as I installed a new set on my car and they fit better than I thought. But in this day and age when more than one company is making parts for these cars, why in the world have "they" still not made these parts available. There has t be a market for hem considering all the restorations going on. I've talked with a number of people and they all agree they would pay good money for a quality set as often originals are beat up, tore, and distorted. All because no repo is available are available. I've not even heard a good rumor regarding the making of these by anyone.

VERY NICE !. Your motor looks so nice and clean and not "gawded up" with a lot chrome and braided hoses. I think engine bay chrome should be limited to valve covers only and even that's a matter of taste.

referring to 4-speed Toploaders Look at the attached chart from David Keys. The tail shaft housings circled in Red (C4DR-7A040-A, C4ZR-7A040-A) are those that were used on "ALL" small block ford mustangs from 65 thru 70. 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351C.The tail shaft housings circled in Green (C6OR-7A404-C, C7OR-7A404-A) are those used on 67 - 70 big block mustangs (390, 428, 429). The difference is the 390 sometimes used a 28 spline output shaft while the 428, 429 used the 31 spline output shaft. (ALL WERE 14" LONG TAILSHAFT HOUSINGS) If you installed a 4-speed toploader from a 66 Fairlane 390 to your 351C, it should have had the tail shaft housing C60R-7A404-C. My 68 had a 351C and Toploader 4-speed with a C4DR tailshaft housing and a hurst competiton plus shifter when I bought the car. It was mounted at the rear of the tailshaft housing. I rebuilt another toploader from a big block that had a tail shaft housing C6OR. Because I wanted to use an original top loader shifter, I had to install and adapter plate to move the shifter farther back at the tail shaft housing. (see photo's). The 67 - 70 mustangs are IDENTICAL with regards to engine size and shifter placement. In your case, if your motor was a 351C and you used a toploader with the C6OR tailshaft housing, then it would have had a bracket placing to the rear of the 14" housing whether it was a hurst or a toploader shifter. Even the link shows a photo of a toploader with a hurst mounting plate attached at the rear for the hurst shifter

I am not a fan of the modification but let me say the quality of work and craftsmanship for your solution is quite clean and precise. I am impressed !

If your toploader was truly from a 70 mustang with a 351C, then the tailshaft housing should be the one with the 3 mounting holes at the rear (C4DR-7A040A). These are 14" long tailshaft housings and are the same for all 65-70 mustangs having a SBF. Since you say the transmission you used was out of a 66 fairlane, the shifter location was different but the same location as the big block mustang. Therefore, you should only need the Hurst #3735587 which is for the big block.

In addition, the 69 has three spokes all of the same width. The 70 has three spokes and the center spoke (vertical bottom) is wider than the left and right spoke

Thanks a lot for the photo. It's very helpful

Boat anchor ?, Not so. The Torker is actually a decent intake for a "single plane" intake. Single plane intakes are somewhat "unruly" at low RPM's and more so when used with a stock or mild cam on a street motor

bumped

Thanks for the info guys. His original bumper was a repo to begin with and pitted pretty bad

I'm not an expert on the FMX or any transmission for that matter, but on a C4 I rebuilt some time back for my buddy down the street, we had to adjust the modulator due to it shifting from 1 - 2 almost instantly. Turning the screw Clockwise in the modulator will increase the spring pressure and move the shifts points.

Continuing on with my Brother's 69 Mach I restoration, his car has a deluxe interior. He purchased new TMI door panels. He also purchased 69 -70 door speaker grills as he intends to install speakers in the doors. His questions are as follows; 1- Can any of you post some pics of the location as to where you have installed the 69 -70 door speaker/grill on a deluxe door panel?? We've not been able to find any photos of such on the web. 2-Who makes a name brand quality speaker that will work with the 69-70 speaker grill besides the ones offered by NPD?? Not that he thinks the quality they (NPD) sell's is not good, he wants better if they are out there and are known to fit and work PROPERLY with the grill. As always, thanks for your responses and information on this subject

I'm currently helping my brother with the restore and slight modification of his 69 Mach I. We are 3 + years into this extensive restoration and expect to be finished up by Aug / Sept. this year (maybe) Today we were fitting the rear bumper to make sure it aligns properly and discovered his new "repo" bumper has the chrome flaking off at one end near the quarter extension. He bought this at CJ's and he is convinced they only sell cheapo bumpers. He cant return it as he bought about a year ago so he's going to buy another. He is asking me who makes the best quality repo bumper (rear) and who might be some of the typical resellers. Your experienced and expert advice is greatly appreciated. P.S. He's not interested in having an original bumper reworked and re-chromed.

I agree with SA69mach, I've done a few clocks and each time I've been able to grip the shaft below the knob and screw the knob off. You may find others telling you to remove the gear in the back which is pressed on the shaft but I have found the safest easiest way was to just unscrew the knob from the front. Once I had to also grip the knob with a pair of pliers as it was really tight on the shaft. I just used some thin leather from a glove to protect the knob from the pliers. To answer your question about the lens. Yes, some we actually glued on while others were attached with the 3 screws that hold the clock. The glued ones are an SOB to remove without damaging the housing finish. I can only suggest to use a dremel toll to remove as much of the clock lens around the seam/glue or where it meets the housing and an exacto knife to separate the lens from the clock.. be careful, it can be a bear. Just be patient. The second clock I worked on was glued on. I thought some Dumba** had glued the damn lens on till searching on ebay for parts I noticed several used clocks that also had glued lens's. The ones that are glued do not have mounting tabs for the screws.

You just cant beat the look of the Magnum 500's. It just does the who car Justice !

Considering your restrictions and time limit, I'd just slap some rubber plugs in it till you have the time and place down the road to pull the motor and put some brass or steel plugs in. I'm not a fan of the rubber plugs but they work in a pinch

My $0.02....................The FMX is a pretty stout transmission. You can rebuild it to be as stout as any C4. The FMX gets a bad rap for no real reason other than the fact its heavy due to the cast center section but its actually a pretty tuff tranny. As Dave indicated., you can build any transmission to handle the horsepower you intend to attach it to.

If your replacing the quarter panels with '70 coupe quarter panel, you'll need donors. I have not seen or found '70 coupe quarter panels or skins. I've found only the '69

Tim, Its great you posted the photo for comparison. Now we all know the difference. Makes me wonder how then the aftermarket trim piece advertised as either coupe or fastback would fit properly without resulting in a poor fit ????

Aside from the repo's, is there any chance the quarter extensions for the sportsroof would have been made with fiberglass versus pot metal ? The ones on my brothers car were fiberglass and seemed pretty old. They even had the ford p/n molded into them. They did not fit the repo full quarters we installed all that well but we made a fixture and warmed them up and tweaked them to fit pretty good. The fact that they are fiberglass means we can modify as needed to match the quarters perfectly.

Hey Pak, I personally like the 69 Vert who's photo's you've posted. I think they can be made to look really nice. However, I wish they would remove that big "tumor" molded onto the hood. That, I feel is an "eyesore" For me, the tunnel ram scoops only seem to work on the Foxbody

260/289/302/351W dizzy gears are the same size and pitch.