prayers1

Thanks Mike for the heads up! I saw a review on CJ where someone mention that was the wrong bearing. I just took the whole column a part so thanks for your help! Cavboy- Do you have a Cleveland? 1969_Mach1- Do you have a picture of your set up? If I get a Saginaw, I'll more then likely get The CVR Racing bracket that Cavboy mention above, it's a little pricey $97.00.

Hey Mike that green hood looks familiar! I painted mine matte black using the stencil. I use Wizard spray wax and I also apply some to the black which kicks up the gloss a little, I think it looks great.

Borgeson said Yes, you can grind the casting without voiding the warranty provided you don’t grind through the casting. Do you think a Dremel can grind off the excess? On rebuilding the column, where did you get your parts. CJ's is charging $61 for one bearing??? I rebuilt a column on a 73 highboy and each bearing was $22. Do you know of a rebuild kit? I have the Cleveland, they don't sell a Saginaw set up for that. I've heard mixed reviews about using the stock pump w/ the Clevelands, most report not enough pressure. Wonder if I bought the set up from Borgeson, could I modify the brackets that came with it?

Thanks for that bit of info 1969_Mach1! I was going to grind as well until I saw the warning on the instructions saying that it will void the gear box. I'll see what Borgenson has to say tomorrow, maybe I can get a release from them to allow me to do some grinding. Did you grind only at the corner where I'm pointing with a pencil or the whole length? As for taking an inch off the outer collar, great ideal. Was yours a close fitting at the rag joint as mine? If I pull the column, I might as well rebuild and paint. Heck, I also need to install a Power Brake Booster, this will give me more access.

Thank you Adam, I am familiar with the Collapsible shaft. In my case, the shaft was pushed up as far it would go and there was no clearance to put the rag joint on. I believe I could of put the joint on the Steering Box before bolting it up, but it would have been a tight fit on my column with no play in or out on the steering column shaft.

Today I went to do the switch, but he Borgenson fit was extremely tight. The round part of the gear box rested on top of the frame which caused the alignment holes to off. Eventually I was able to catch a thread on each hole, but had to rotate the tightening of the bolts. After a while the bottom bolt went flush on the frame but the top 2 bolts were out about an 1/8", I had to go back and fourth, tightening the bolts with effort one at a time until the whole unit was flush against the frame. I then saw that the Borgenson steering shaft was off center from my Steering column. There is a little play on my column so I pushed it hard to one side trying to line it up with the Borgenson but it did not center. I think if I loosen the steering column from the firewall that I might be able to get the column to move a little more. (I think that might work, but not sure). When I took the unit back off I can see a cut mark on the frame from the unit being forced on. IMO I actually think the casting material on the Borgenson is built up too much. You can see evidence of that in the pictures. I'd like to grind it off but the warrentee will be void. I did contact Borgenson and sent some pics. The Rep said it should be an easy bolt in. I'll find out tomorrow. What do you think????

It was a Roller Cam designed by Brent Lykins @ Lykins Motor Sports, cam built by Comp Cams. Since you can't call it in, I gave the specs in case any Cleveland guy wants to build the same. The motor had no effort climbing to 6000 rpms. I don't know Mach1 Driver, I kinda got hot on the EFI thing and purchased every single thing to make that conversion, besides the throttle body. I still think the cost are kinda high for the available kits out there and thought to get an Intake modified for injectors and an Accel Throttle body. I'd probably make the provisions for the return line before placing the motor back in then get to it later this Summer.

Yesterday I had the engine dynoed and reached my goal of 500 Hp. We had 11 runs and the highest Hp was 520, the highest Tq was 489.7. Vacuum was 11-12â€. Run was on 91 octane, Initial 12 all in at 32. Lost only a couple numbers dropping timing to 9.5. The attached Dyno sheet was done with a 1†spacer, that had the highest Tq reading. 351C 2 bolt main stroked to a 408, Quick Fuel 780 Vac Sec, Comp Cam 602/574, 235/241 @ 50, lobe sep 112, SCAT Rod I Beam Chev 6.000, Race Tech Pistons 20 cc, SCAT Crankshaft Ford 351 Cleveland Series 9000 Cast Crankshafts, CHI 4V Aluminum Heads, Comp Cam Rockers Ultra Pro Magnum XD, Comp Cam Dual Valve Springs 165 @ 1.800 & 385 @ 1.200, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake 7564, Water Pump Flow Kooler, Cloyes Timing Chain True Roller, Distributor MSD 8577, Morel Roller Lifters, Moroso Pick Up 24558, Melling Oil Pump M-84AHV, Tim Meyers -DuraBond Cam Bearings F-26G, Sanderson Shorty Headers. Since the intake is a 4v/2v version, we ported the intake to match the CHI 4V heads. I went with the CHI 4V's because 3V's would not allow the use of my Shaker Hood Scope. I would have had a little more gain if I tested with long tube headers.

All very good information. I did catch that WCCC vid a long time ago. At that time they had a stock pile of OEM Boosters, MC's & Pedal, but it was not until yesterday I just found out that they are sold out. Yes, the cam was suppose to be design with Power Brakes in mine. Here's what Master Power Brakes said today- " I do have a Booster/Master kit with Pedal (Pn# BM15214-1) and will Retail at $425.00 Any of your boosters will require 18" of vacuum the only difference is some of the larger diameter ones will band-aid it slightly if your close to 18". I would say your probably going to be under 10" of vacuum so you will most likely need a vacuum pump in order to go with a power brake setup". So yeah, I think I'd eventually need a vacuum canister. If the 9" pancake style hits the steering tube then how did they do it on the Boss 429's? I did check out Mustang Steves (Bendix Booster PB-6770 AT, MC PB-6.1 & Port valve PB100), but his Dist Valve looks aftermarket and I want the factory look. I don't know if his Boosters will work w/ oem stuff. Too bad about Scott Drake, at one point in time they were bragging on how their stuff was the perfect OEM replacement. I read on various websites many complaints about incorrect true fitment and most stuff made overseas, too bad for them they started good. My major concern is valve cover clearance and vacuum........... As of now, I still don't know what booster will give me more vacuum or more stopping power. It seems CJ's and MPB's are selling the Automatic set up with the Pancake type.

I have a 1969 with an AOD trans. I'm converting from Manual brakes to Power (disc/drum). I'm concerned about Vacuum for the Pwr Brakes. I'm looking for the best Booster with the most vacuum. My new Cleveland stroked 408 Cam has 235/241 @ 50 duration, 602/574 lift. Question: Do you have more vacuum reserve with an 8" vs. a 9" booster??? CJ's has a (Master Power: BM15214-2) Pancake type Booster 9", 1-1/8" bore 7/16" stroke master cylinder . Master Power Brakes also sells smaller Bendix type *' that has a 1" bore. Master Power Brakes also makes another Pancake style w/ a 1" bore. Question: What benefit is the 1" vs. 1 1/8 bore??? IIRC- the 1970 Mach 1's had a 8" booster auto trans, not the pancake type What Booster do you think is best for my App???

Looking for a Car Rotisserie, I'm in Arkansas. You can email me at prayers1@cox.net

Question: Can the Full Floor pan be installed with the windows installed. Such as, can you just open the door and slide it in that way?

The axle tubing tappers for the small bearing. Here's some good info: http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

Hope it's not as bad as you think. I too have an AOD but was built w/o the use of a TV Cable. You might want another opinion and give my builder a call, Dan Gilsdorf 816-365-6215. If your interested, I'm selling a 12" non-locking 2600 stall converter for $100 + shipping. Here's what Dan wrote to install AOD's: TRANSMISSION RR GUIDE rev2.doc

Mike nice work! What kind of welder are you using?

What thickness is the frame rail in case someone wanted to buy a piece of metal for repair?

Thank you for posting that, nice job!

The car sat most of the time this Summer w/o any work done to it. Caring for my Father-in-Law, who now lives with us and life's "little" problems makes the time go fast. On a good note, I was able to sell the 357C motor, QF Carb and Blue Thunder Intake on eBay, but unfortunately that money was eaten up quickly purchasing parts for the 408 Cleveland build. At this moment I would like to get back to figuring how to weld in the Shock Tower reinforcements myself. MANY years ago I had some experience using a Mig Welder making aluminum floors for Semi's. I would like to buy a good used welder, since this would be the only time I would need one. I'm also concern that with my inexperience that I would blow too many holes in the metal and yes I know I need to practice. What am I looking for in a Mig Welder and what are my concerns using it on the car? I don't want to spend a ton and then have it sit in the corner. Thanks Guys! PS. This Ad just came into my email. What do you think? Eastwood MIG Welder 110VAC/ 135A Output Item #12011 Brand: Eastwood $259.99.

I'm not trying to make a big deal about it. Every time I log on and see the banner I say "it's too bad I can't see mine especially that it was picked out of the group." I was viewing the page for a few days before I accidental came upon it when sliding the page over. I can only see my car by doing that. I wonder if you can see the car w/o sliding the page, it maybe a viewing problem on my end.

Now your talking. I like that, but I don't want to bump anyone out. I wonder if there is a way to move the whole banner to the left.

Hey Print Dad- I'm appreciative on having my car selected, but it can't be seen coming from the far right. Any movement?

Any updates?

Nice Color! Bet you can't wait to see it painted. How are you going to paint the hood, 1/2 red & black or what???

Are you going with the Radiant Red Metallic?

Thanks for the pictures! How tall is that scope? Things are coming along real nice!!!