etel64

MC, here is my story with my gauges. they didnt work after I replaced everything that powers them(VR,ribbon). so I took them out and started doing some testing. Remember, these do not get full voltage!!! they run on 5vdc. so I taped (2) "D" size batteries together and connected them to each gauge. apparently the gauges had been sitting so long they needed the max 5vdc to come off the bottom position that they where stuck on. hope this helps.

Water? to be a smart a**, they dont so well that way. no really though. chances of you resurecting them and then actually working is slim. Even if they do work for a bit, they wont last long. Im figuring these are the original 43 yo gauges with regular use where there is humidty that attacks them through the years. Now submersing them is a whole nother story.

I found other places where it says to tuck under the rear window gasketing. I recall taking these out years ago and it wasnt wrapped? Anyone like ot chimme in?

Anyone know if the extra material at the top edge of the interior sail panels get wrapped around the edge where the rear window gasket wraps? I dont recall the originals havinf the extra material.?

Anyone in the NW Houston area that knows of a good upolsterer?

IMHO. just put the motor in by itself since the tranny is in. As far as making this a one man job. ALWAYS try and have help when moving several hundred pound assemblies. When I put my 351w and c4 in, I had help from 2 who never put an enigne in in their lives. Patience and taking your time is always a good way to prevent damaging stuff or hurting yourself.

Yeah, wouldnt that be cool if we had a barter/donate place on the site to help out other stangnuts. I am sort of in the final stages of my :thumbup1:rebuild and am not plannnig on building another 69. I have some NOS parts and some new repo parts that I would love to get rid of to a good home. Everyone knows the cost of these parts now and I am sure we hate to see them go to the scrapper.

Here you are. You can see the lower holes would have placed the compressor way too high. I didnt want to take any chances and when I saw how high it orignally mounted, it just looked way too high. The lower third center hole would not mount so I used a short bolt with a jam nut to support the bottom. Hope this helps

Drew, I had concerns about mine too so I lowered it by about an inch. the I had it powder coated. you said you put it on the RHS (right side?) my altn is on the right and compr is on the left, I have pictures if you like.

starter?

Take a look on AAw site and find the schematics/wiring diagrams. it will show you every part. ie, dash connections, engine bay connections, dash connections, etc. It is a well thought out instruction manual and matches the harness that they build. Of course you have to have basic understanding of wiring. :thumbup1:

AAW is what I used and it was very very easy. All circuits are indiviual and no longer a crap load of feeds on one fuse. Was a huge relief because I once had issues like you. I have gone to a Pertronix coil & dizzy, motorsport starter, electric fans, 100A altn etc. I think I paid around $600 for the AAW becuase this was a complete resto mod and I didnt want any of those gobblins hanging around.

I posted this earlier in another. I am almost complete on my car and have found the Dyn doors are not made exactly as the originals. I only found this out when I went to put the windows in and went through hell trying to get the windows adjusted. "exact tooling" ha! . 20/20.I should have paid the extra $ to salvage the originals for sure.

I am almost complete on my car and have found the Dyn doors are not made exactly as the originals. I only found this out when I went to put the windows in and went through hell trying to get the windows adjusted. "exact tooling" ha!:double fuck: . 20/20.I should have paid the extra $ to salvage the originals for sure.

Yesssssss ! Well after the burping didnt correct the issue. I figured it was time to just take the friggin t-stat out and see what happened. Before doing so, I started thinking that when it erupted with the cap off meant it had the pressure in the block behind the t-stat. So eliminating the t-stat could be the problem Well, got it out and the so called "high volume" t-stat just didnt look right. Anyway, run without and idled it. Went to 191, fans kicked on and the temp came down to 184 ! WAHOO:thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1:. Sometimes it is the simplest things! Thank you all very much !

thanks 69vert. but this is a 69 351W converted to a 70 pass side intake. not sure what the late model part has to do with it. Engine turns CCW when sitting in the car but the pump I am supposed to have and is installed say its a CW. Is this the rotation from the front or sitting in the car?

Well, did the burp deal. I think I did it right. Fired it up with the front tires 3" off the ground. open cap. let it heat up till the t-stat opened. great flow through the rad! flow coming in from the top hose towards the pass side intake hose on water pump. Temp went to 195 with cap off. put cap on, lowered car it walked up to 220 degrees. had to shut it down. let it cool to 200 and got cap off, yes, released pressure slowly. ran it again with cap off, it went to 220 again and I shut it down. errupted and let about half a gallon out.:cursing:. how many times do you need to burp this thing? let me get this CCW & CW deal. Engine turns CCW when sitting in the car when they specify CW on the pumps, do they mean from the front of the car? Will be removing t-stat later once it cools.

Well, didnt get a chance to do the suggestions today. Thanks very much for helping with all the suggestions. I am first going to do the burping deal first thing tomm. If no luck there, then remove the new Milodon high flow 180 degree t-stat. I do feel it working. opens at the 185 mark and lets the water flow, not crazy fast or anything either. This is a Champion 3 core rad with twin 12" fans on a shroud. Sucks smoke in from 2 feet away. The water wetter idea came from a blurb about it being suggested for aluminum rads and the mfr claims. figured $10 couldnt hurt the situation. Did tach the engine to make sure the bottom hose wasnt collapsing also. Will let yall know the outcome. Thanks again.

This is a 69 351W that I swapped the inlet to the drivers side. Thanks for the suggestions all. stopped running it since last drive it hit 251 degrees. Im pretty sure the digital gauge is darn close since I cannot put my hand in front of the electric fan air. REALLY FRIGGIN HOT! Called the engine builder today and kicked around lots of plausable ideas. Didnt do the top advance down thing yet but did bump it to 15 degrees. Added water wetter. Head gasket tabs are showing on the outer front of the heads like they are supposed to be. Water Pump is a Hi Volume Moroso and the matching HV t-stat. Idling is at 235 degrees. This thing is still not spewing!!!! WTH man? Anyone know what a CCW vs a CW water pump differences are? I imagine the impeller blade is opposite of the other but which way is is supposed to be for a CCW? Maybe I got a CW in a CCW box? When sitting in the car, the engine turns CW. Summit says the CCW,CW direction is from the front of the engine.

My first was a Grande. 250 i6. fond mems till I got 50mph rear ended hit. but then came my complete Mach I for $500. fluke for sure. early 80s, rite place at rite time. Still love the Grande. Wish I would have kept it instead of disecting it. My Mach has the same story. stored for a couple decades and now in final stages. Good job man. THese are wonderful cars !!!!!!!!!!!!

WOW, How did you do that picture?

First off. this is a quality kit and planning is everything. Rushing it will cause mistakes. It was not my experience though since I planned well and had lots of time to keep stepping back and looking. There are some little adjustments is what they told me when it didnt go perfectly. Not much tweeking was really needed but I originally thought none would be required. I would make sure you have every part that it shows on the many install instructions. They missed a couple parts but they are the only ones who can supply. My AC has not been charged yet so I cannot speak on the performance. It wont be long till I get that done. A few of the instruction sheets could have used better illustrations and a few additional but it still went together smooth. I kept my notes on the install sheets which may be of help. Good Luck and pictures go a long way. I have many so let me know what your looking for,

Did mine with a rental hoist and two friends who never worked on a car. It was fully assembled less the headers. No leveler setup. just set the angle buy eye and lifted the tranny tail over the rad support. Drop an inch, move it back, drop and inch move it back. etc. Once tail is near floor, I got under and blocked it up until the motor mounts where ligned up very close to landing. floor jacked the tail and dropped on the mounts. then did tranny cross member. Be serious about this very heavy assembly. check and double check all the hoistings. And most of all, take your time.

thanks MAX. the other strange thing is its not spewing. Ive heard 10, 12 & 14 btdc is good. its presently at 10. does the temp increase with degrees or decrease? throttle resaponse is good and in gear idling is good. I also have march pullys and they are the same diameter.

Ayat, here is what it is. I have a fresh motor 351w, 30over, mild cam, roller tip rockers, high volume aluminum water pump, high volume thermostat, 3 core aluminum radiator, twin electric fans, stock heads ported and polished,600 Holley, pertronix ignition, Dougs headers.:thumbup: Motor has about 200 around town miles on it and its still running around 235 degrees !!!! :helpsmilie:Man this seems high for all the efforts I went to make sure it ran cool. Motor was freshened up by a very reputable shop who I have not contacted as of yet. Motor has not been fine tuned. Question: how much effect does the timing and mixture have on an engines running temperature? Any other suggestions or thing to check would be greatly appreciated.:clap: