JoeyS

Here is a link to the pdf "how to rebuild your SMALL-BLOCK FORD"

I sprayed some penetrating fluid on the bolts several times over many days before I attempted to remove them. I used a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. They both came out without the need for cutting them. When installing the new leaf springs I applied anti-seize compound to the new bolts. Joe

I had my original 24" 3 core FoMoCo date coded, first week of July, 1969 radiator re-cored. The first local shop I took it to quoted me $650, I thought it was too much, I could get a custom made one for that amount. A second, larger shop an hour away gave me a quote of exactly half that price. I had the second shop do the work and it came out fine. There was the shiny paint and a little spatter where it was soldered but I cleaned that up and painted it myself and it looks and performs great. They soldered a logo/job number on it. but it wasn't noticeable when installed so I left it on. It seemed like a lot of money at the time but now I don't regret it a bit. I like the originality of the radiator the car was born with and It runs cool even when idling in stop and go traffic on hot summer days. Joe

Maybe the handwritten date of 10-8-69 is in the format: day-month-year. August 10,1969. This format is used by the military and is common internationally. August 10,1969 was a Sunday. Doesn't seem likely.

Could an adaptor pigtail jumper wire extension be used to mate a male 71-73 to female 70 wiring harness?

I'm not aware of a 70 switch being available as a new replacement part. The connector of the 70 ignition switch is usually spliced onto a new replacement 71-73 switch. The 1970 switch had a longer set of wires that reached farther, the later years ignition wire sets were too short. It took some minor repostioning of the wires too. When I cut my connector off my broken switch I cut the wires long so I would have extra length to use if I ever had to do this again. It seems to me the connector and wires are the most important part. The switch pictured on the O'Reilly auto part site looks to be the later 71-73 version. I would be happy to know there is a replacement available. Joe

I'm not familiar with drip rails on 69-70 convertibles. Are we refering to the convertible boot hockey stick moldings? Or the pinch seam underneath the car?

Thanks for the info, I mistakenly referred to the 69 version as the luxury option, it should have been deluxe. The link and picture helps. It shows a 69 with slots for tabs. I understand the 70 has a slight opening radius at center bottom. I think my issue is that I have an incorrect standard gauge instrument cluster in a deluxe interior car. That's why I was confused. I appreciate all the help. Joe

Thanks for the info, I mistakenly referred to the 69 version as the luxury option, it should have been deluxe. The link and picture helps. It shows a 69 with slots for tabs. I understand the 70 has a slight opening radius at center bottom. I think my issue is that I have an incorrect standard gauge instrument cluster in a deluxe interior car. That's why I was confused. I appreciate all the help. Joe

Maybe my deluxe instrument panel was replaced with a standard gauge panel. Thats why there are no slots for the tabs. Joe

Maybe my deluxe instrument panel was replaced with a standard gauge panel. Thats why there are no slots for the tabs. Joe

My 70 Mustang with Decor group interior is missing the woodgrain panel around the gauges. It looks like a standard black gauge cluster without the woodgrain. The Decor group is similar to the 69 luxury option. I found a used woodgrain panel but am I missing another piece? It appears the panel has tabs that are inserted then bent down to attach but my gauge cluster has no slots to accept the tabs. What would the part number be or the name of this missing part? I think its a plastic part with chrome finish. Are these reproduced? I appreciate any additional information. Joe

My 70 Mustang with Decor group interior is missing the woodgrain panel around the gauges. It looks like a standard black gauge cluster without the woodgrain. The Decor group is similar to the 69 luxury option. I found a used woodgrain panel but am I missing another piece? It appears the panel has tabs that are inserted then bent down to attach but my gauge cluster has no slots to accept the tabs. What would the part number be or the name of this missing part? I think its a plastic part with chrome finish. Are these reproduced? I appreciate any additional information. Joe

I had my originals chrome plated by a local shop a couple years ago. Replacements had just become available, but were costly. I wasn't sure if the aged pitted pot metal would hold up, but it came out very good. It had two flaws, one would be covered by the stainless and the other was pretty small. I was happy with the price and they looked great. I think I was more shocked by the high price of getting my stainless piece polished. Joe

Thanks for the correction on the 1970 link.

Thanks for the info. This one has fuel tank listed in Canadian gallons. There might be some other differences, is there a different one for U.S. market?

I came across these two links to PDF's on Ford's media website. About 6 MB each. It has some cool general and technical information. I never saw these documents before and didn't know if it was common knowledge. For 1969: https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/2013/11/18/1969_Mustang_Data.pdf For 1970: https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/2013/11/18/1970_Mustang_Data.pdf Joe

I redrew the freely available, low quality version of the 1969 Mustang wiring diagram. It's easier to view it as a single file instead of two separate documents as it was. It is sized for tabloid (11" x 17") paper, but will also fit A3 (297mm x 420mm). It is in pdf format so it will scale up even bigger if someone wants to make a poster size print. It took me a little longer then I expected to complete. I thought it would be easy since I had already made the 1970 version, but there were some differences in the details. I enjoyed working on it and hope it is helpful to others. Please let me know if there are any corrections, errors, or suggestions. Joe

I will start on a 1969 version soon. I can reuse many of the same elements so it should not take as long to complete. Thanks for taking a look and for the comments and posting the colorized version. I had never seen that one before. Joe

I redrew the freely available, low quality version of the 1970 Mustang wiring diagram. It's easier to view it as a single file instead of two separate documents as it was. It looks good printed on 11" x 17" paper. It is in pdf format. I would appreciate any comments, corrections, or suggestions. Please take a look and let me know what you think. I wanted to give something back to the Mustang community that helped me so much with my project. Joe

Your comment does help and gives me something to think about. I like how it sits, I just don't want it jacked up in the back too much. Thanks, Joe

Lowering blocks would give the desired lower ride height but I also am hoping for an improvement in handling. I get a feeling of body lean from the rear when driving. Also I have slightly more settling on the left drivers side of the car, not much but I would like to get it all leveled out. Thank you for the suggestion.

I would like to replace my original leaf springs on my 1970 convertible for a slightly lowered look and improved handling. It's a 302 with AC. Eaton springs have a stock replacement and also 1" and 2" drop. I think the stock replacements would sit higher then it does now because of the settling and wear over the years. Would 1" lowering springs sit higher then it does now? Are 2" drop springs too much and cause it to sit too low? A recommendation I once had was for a four and a half leaf mid eye spring, but the Eatons don't say if they are reverse or mid eye springs, just stock, 1" or 2" drop. Any other advice or recommendation would be appreciated. I've included a photo to show how it currently sits.

My 1970 am/fm radio is stamped D0ZA 19A241. I believe C9ZA was for 1969, I read online that its possible the manufacturer's code was stamped first while the other characters were added later once a specific application was determined. Maybe they just never stamped the rest of the numbers. Also that Ford would renumber leftover inventory with a paper sticker that was placed over the C9ZA-19A241 number and change the face plate. Maybe a paper sticker was on there at one time but is now gone. Joe

Hi Mike, I have some pictures of my 1970 302 ac/power steering bracket setup. I don't know if this will help but I remember when reassembling my ac that I had gotten some of the brackets mixed up and I had to look closely at the pictures to get it all back together correctly. I apologize if this is not exactly what you are looking for but I figured it couldn't hurt. Joe