danno

Who in Oklahoma would care if you car was streel legal or not? States like Califorinia that have yearly emissions or safety checks might make it complicated, but would anyone in most states without inspections care?

couple hundred bucks more but its 4 piston. its the KH brakes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...#ht_2153wt_941 __________________ I have heard different things about the KH brakes. If the Granada brakes will lock up your front wheels in a panic stop, what is the advantage of the 4 piston? I understand how it could be better, but is it worth all the complication of all the 4 pistons? I also have heard some wheels will not work and you need offset adapters for the KH brakes.

I have been having trouble with my factory power disc brakes so I picked up a Granada setup at a local salvage yard. It turns out the problem was probably with my disti valve or proportioning valve. I will probably sell the Granada setup I have, if you are interested. I know I can unload it on ebay if you are not.

I understand it to be the torpedo thing is the proportioning part, but it works with teh distribution block somehow.

These are great replies, I really appreciate this. It sounds like a rebuild kit is in order. I should also mention that the brake light is not on, and I know it works because I tested it when I replaced my hoses ( that was the first thing I did, in case they were soft). So are you saying the seals on the proporting valve or disti block? I might as well do both as long as I am in the mood to do it.

My 69 has factory power disc brakes, and the brakes distribution block seems to have a proportioning valve attached to it. The rear brake from the master cylinder goes to the top end of the distribution block, then under that it goes to a cylinder thing about 3 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. Then it comes out of this and back to the distribution block. Then the pipe to the rear brakes is under this connection on the disti block. Is this a factory disti block from 69? Is it adjustable? My rear brakes lock up too early, and I have never been able to get the front to lock on a panic stop. Thanks

Be careful, I am not sure the stud on the back of the alternator is ground. There are several of them there, make sure you know which is which. If you attach the output stud to a ground cable, your alternator will last about a second before smoke rises. Are you using a factory alternator and factory alternator harness? If you are, it is easy to do correctly and difficult to connect the wrong way.

Will it still start when cold? If it will still start when cold but dies when it gets hot, you need a can of freeze spray. Start the car and run it until it stops, then spray the freeze spray on a suspect part, like the Pertronix. If it starts and runs as long as that is cold, that is the problem. Bad connections and ground wires can be a problem when hot that you would not see at cold. You already tried the coil, because I had exactly the same problem you describe and it was a bad coil.

1. My book says a black wire with green went from the + side of the starter solenoid ( connected to the battery) to the voltage regulator. 2 That is your main ground connection from the engine to the chassis. It connects from the back of the passenger's side cylinder head to the firewall. 3. don't know 4. yes, this is definately where the vacuum booster connects. 3.

It was sold for about $1500. Did anyone from this forum buy it? I am curious if it is the same rack and pinion as a 94 Chev Cavilier.

Check this just in case it helps. http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fitment%20Guide%2069-70.pdf

OK, I understand. Doublecheck the width of your wheel and that the 225 will work on it before completing the purchase. As for the backspacing, again, check on it. It might not be necessary depending on your new wheels. Good luck

Actually, you cold be fine keeping your factory regulator. Just because you have a 100 amp alternator does not mean it is ever going to produce 100 amps. The only time you could come close to that is if your battery was extremely discharged and you had to do a jump start while your lights, stereo amplifiers, and air conditioner are on. If you are looking for a simple fix, stay with the factory regulator, they are really a great design that was used in millions of Fords for 20 years with very little problems. You also had a question about the ampmeter. This is a completely seperate system from the alternator and regulator. It just tells you what they are doing. If you are installing an aftermarket ampmeter or voltmeter, you can leave the original ampmeter hooked up, it will not hurt a thing. Unlike the regulator, the ampmeter was a completely worthless Ford product in Mustangs in 69 and 70. So hook up a seperate ampmeter and don't worry about the factory junk.

You did not mention the width of your 14 inch rims. Be careful with that, some wide profile tires would not work on a 5 inch wide rim. Verify this on new tires. Your original question was about wheel backspacing also. I do not think you need to be concerned with this, because this is generally needed only to allow the wheel to fit the brake assembly, the tire has no impact on backspacing.

On my 302 it is in the corner by the dist. It will be wherever the threads are for mounting it, unless you have to drill and tap a new hole for it?

I will see if I can provide some answers. 1. If the temp gauge is working, I would say your IVR is OK. The floats in your fuel level sensor can easily develop a pin hole and leak gas inside. Those cheap aftermarket things do not last, I have replaced them about every 3 years or so. That is probably why your fuel reads low. 2. the original Ford IVR is a very solid design. They last forever, I still have my original installed. It is a very simple and reliable design, go for a Ford replacement. I would not doubt that your local Ford dealer would have them. 3. The headlight switch is powered seperate from the cluster. It only supplies power to the cluster to light the instruments when the headlights are on. No other connection. 4. A couple of tricks on removing the cluster. You have to reach behind the speedometer and release the speedometer cable. It is a trick, see if it is talked about in the manual you have. Also release the wire connector by squeezing the releases at the top and bottom. My guess is your cluster is fine. Another way to check the temp sensor is to remove it, connect a ground wire from the engine to the side of the sensor, and dip it in bioling water. You should see the needle move to about 3/4 up ( I could be wrong on how far it moves). This will tell you it works. The take your fuel sendor out and check for liquid in the float. 3

Yes, the diagram posted was definately for a 69 with a tach. The photo shown later looks correct for 69 alt harness. In 69, it connected to the engine wiring harness and connected to the dash harness by the fusebox. You can build your own, but you better get it right or you can destroy an alternator easily.

PRAYERS1; Your question about Granada vs factory power disc is a valid one that I have wondered about. A few weeks ago I came across a Granada setup that I am in the process of installing in my 69 in place of factory discs. I have never been happy with the factory power disc brakes. In an emergency, I do not think I could lock up the front tires with them. Thankfully in 25 years of driving I have never had to do so/ A few things I noticed are that the whole caliper assembly that supports the brake pads is substantially larger with the Granada. My guess is Ford realized that the system used in 69 was not adequate, so they beefed it way up in the Granada. I will bet there is twice the steel, I know they weigh about twice as much. I have realized, as well as everyone else, that when you change brake pads on a 69 factory brake car, the inner pad is worn down to nothing and the outer pad is barely touched. That tells me all braking is done on the inside of the disc only. My guess is this was fixed with the Granada. If I had my system done, I could give you a good answer. I will be done in about another week.

EBay notice! SOmeone (not me!) is selling a Randalls rack and pinion system for 69 Mustang on ebay. They did not spell it correct, though. It is spelled randals, it should be randalls. So do a search for randals rack pinion and you should find it. It is cheap now, who knows how much it will sell for. It could go cheap because of the misspellllinng? But now that all of the users on this forum know, it might not? I already have Randalls system on my car, or I would be bidding. The same seller also has the pump for sale.

yep. works fine today. I have not changed anything, so it must have been some glitch???

I do not know what the problem was. Generally, right after I make a reply, I can see it in the thread. With all my replies I was not seeing them, so I did not think anyone was home... I will see if this one works.

You can see from my previous responses that something was wrong with my replies. None were being displayed so I could see them, so I kept on repeating my answers. I do not know what the problem is, but now it seems to work. Maybe?

Richard, I live in Minneapolis and could take a look at what you have if you are close by. I am an electronics engineer, so wiring and electrical issues are generally easy for me. I also have the hood scoop, so you could see how that is supposed to work.

this is a test

Richard, I live in Minneapolis and could take a look at what you have if it would help. I also have a factory hood scoop and you could see how mine works. Your inside harness is probably fine, especially since the car has been sitting for so long.