danno

Sold on ebay for $1140. Anyone watching will now realize the value of these. I have watched them for years on ebay, and I knew it would sell for about this price. So if you still looking, now you know how much to expect to pay

I understand. Your decision makes a lot of sense. Let us know how it goes.

So the cruise was not an option in 1970?

First of all, the relay is not needed if the switch is big enough to handle a few amps. I have the factory switch in mine, and it has probably had the top go up and down 3000 times in the last 50 years and still works fine. So if a normal switch is used, a relay is not necessary. The switch you show looks fantastic. If you do use it and the relay, the relay to do it is a very unique type. I would guess there are some that are made for this purpose. It must be normally off, and a ON for the top to go up, and an ON with the polarity of the motor wires reversed for the top to go down. If it is made for something like this, you have selected well. If it is not, then it will not at all work.

Yes, it is kind of a hidden location. This is also where the fog lamp switch went. With 2 holes, I don't know what they did if you had a convertible with cruise control and fog lamps?

Yes, but he could not translate to the software in the computer. His computer would set it all up automatically with the fixtures. If he could not do it on his fancy automatic system, he could not do it. Maybe he just did not want to, because it would be more work than he wanted?

I do not know the brand or model on mine, there is nothing on them. After you get the speaker hole cut, roll down the window and measure the distance between the door skin and the window arm. Then make sure you speaker is less. I do know that ( the way it used to be) better sound comes from speakers with bigger magnets. Bigger magnets mean they are longer in depth. So if you use a speaker with shallow depth, you will not get as good of sound. New speakers might play tricks with the old ways?

Some of the measureemnts are in the Ford Shop manual. Otherwise you need someone willing to get the measurements you need off of a car with known perfect dimensions. There could be an online reference you could purchase, but I am not aware of it.

Dallas Mustang could easily have $500,000 in retail value on these items. But the descriptions are vague and you have no real idea what you are getting. But it is looking like you can get things for pennies on the dollar. So you spend $20 on 6 prings, use one, and toss the other 5. you still can come out ahead. If you know what you are buying. I would bet someone from CJ will be there to buy half the stuff, then sell it to us for full retail. That is who really comes out ahead.

although it is an online auction, you must physically pick up items bought. There is probably someone on this forum who could do this is someone wanted a part?

I am not sure what they have, but Dallas Mustang has an online auction to liquidate everything next week. Look over the details at Vhttp://rosensystems.com/upcoming-auctions/1564 I have seen some items at these sell for pennies on the dollar, and some sell for way too much. I just thought some might be interested in looking.

Yes, keep in mind that some speakers will get in the way of the window coming down. The window mechanism hits the magnet on the back of the speaker. You are probably ok with most mentioned, but be aware that it can be an issue. I got mine installed and they sounded great. I thought everything was perfect, and I tried to roll down my window. I had to move mine from behind the metal door shell to have the rim of the speaker on the passenger's side of the door panel.

When I took mine to get aligned, the first 2 places would not touch it. One of the guys said he would have to guess about the settings because they were not in some reference material he had. I finally found one place in town that knew what to do, they work on old cars all the time. So depending on where you took it, they could have just been guessing on the settings.

Minneapolis. There are at least 4 of us on this forum from here, and there could be a hundred 69/70 Stangs in town. There are a ton of collectors here, and they like them. It might also help that 25 years ago a local Ford collector had about 50 of them and sold them all, mostly to locals.

Also, as midlife suggested, they would need to be electrically completely separate systems.

A T on oil pressure will work fine, but if you use it for temperature the tips of both sensors will not be directly in the flow of coolant fluid. They might read a few degrees cooler than if the sensor tip was installed right in the coolant flow passage.

I thought about the same thing in mine. Put spacers under the tracks and above the carpet. i am not sure how long the bolts are that go through the floor. I do not know if you could get an extra inch out of them. Maybe there is a way to put in new and longer bolts?

I recently bought an ACP FM-EF002, I would guess from National Parts depot. I hooked it up electrically before installing in the tank and with it the gauge would not cover the entire range from E to F. I had to bend the high and low stops on it, and I got it to register the entire range. I changed the floats ( as described below) and am now testing it to verify it reads F when the tank has 20 gallons, and will check it just above E to see how much it takes to fill the tank. This one came with a brass float, and I have had 2 of those brass floats fail. My other car (99 Contour) has a type of plastic material with no air inside, so I am trying that. I doubled them up and wired them to my Mustang arm. I know the float worked for 20 years in my other car, so I would guess another 20 will not be a problem. pictures below. I got the floats free from a local self serve junk jard. Make sure to test yours dry, outside the tank with a ground wire and a signal wire to connect it to the car. That way you can easily verify it will register the full range on the gauge.

I must tell this story of maybe how cheap I actually am. I bought my 69 convert in about 1984. I bought new Monroe shocks for it with a " Lifetime Guarantee" in about 1985. Last month I installed new Monroe shocks ( all four) for the 5th time since I bought my car. I have the records. About every 6 years or so. Every time I do it the new shocks are free; zero cost because of the guarantee. I bet Monroe hates those like me, taking advantage or their programs. Maybe they are not the best shocks, but when you can get new ones every 6 or 7 years for zero cost, it is hard to consider other options. Last month the would have cost me $170 if I had not had the guarantee.

I got mine installed with a small straight screwdriver in the small openings on the front. It is tricky, but can be done.

I did not realize they all came with the plug. I have the tilt wheel, and it requires the pins removed.

You were in my part of the world. Minnesota. Brainerd is a fun city in the summer. It is always fun to get away, now get back to work. Now get back to work.

I found one with Bendix on the bottom. It also has a 2227161 number. Could it have been the original one with the car?

Yes, but how do I know if it is a Bendix? Will it have it on the bottom?

You need to remove the pins from the half moon connector they are inserted in. It takes a special tool. Some have improvised the tool out of a ball point pen.