manley

+1:hammer:

Awesome find!

I bought all my stuff from Opentracker, but haven't installed it yet. John and Sheri are pretty helpful. I needed '70 outer tie rods, but '69 inners and they were kind enough to put that together for me.

What exactly is wrong with them?

I have used quite a few Dynacorn parts. While they are not all totally perfect and require a little work, they are pretty good if you are okay with doing a little work to make the fit. I haven't had any major problems. As far as buying at a swap meet, it definitely will save you shipping costs and some parts are just plain cheaper at the meets for some reason. I think I paid less than $300 for my full floor pan.

I'm pretty sure it won't crank with the key if it is the NSS.

The metal is going to be pretty thin around those holes in most cases. You could make a patch, but it's going to take time to get it formed just right. Those compound curves are killers. I supposed you could try filling them in first.... use a copper spoon behind the holes? I'm not sure it would work, but what do you have to lose?

The first pic Mike65 posted will replace the floor pan section to the left and under your adjustable wrench. The second pic he posted will replace the section your adjustable wrench is pointing to at the bottom right of your top pic. The section that is rusted in front of your wheel house is part of the rocker panel. I'm not sure what reproduction parts are being made for this area.

+1 :thumbup:

These are pretty commonly rusted to dust. When I cut mine out, there was no sign of paint ever being applied to the torque box or the under side of the firewall extension/toe board.

This is just my opinion, but if your torque boxes are rusted to crap like mine were, there really isn't much structural integrity left in them. If you support the car well, the structural support created by how the roof, A-pillars, cowl, side cowl, firewall, rear aprons, and rockers all tie together, I think you should be fine removing both boxes. Don't be scared to use about 8 jack stands! Of course, this all depends on how solid the rest of the car is and how far you have disassembled it. Mine was completely bare.

Here's my passenger side. The flange you see on the right is the torque box flange.

Mine didn't either... matching that particular spot up was probably the worst part of replacing the extension on that side. The passenger side was a piece of cake.

I cut the flange off before welding them in my car.

Still looking.

Ouch. Pricey. Hopefully my WTB ads turn up something. http://www.cjponyparts.com/drip-rail-channel-pair-fastback-1969-1970/p/DRC4/

Cool....I'll have a look around. Last I heard they weren't being repopped, but that's been awhile back.

See pic. It goes to the rear of the quarter window under the stainless weatherstripping retainer. I need the LH side and will take the RH side as well if you have it. Edit: Actually, I think it goes under the "boomerang" trim piece. The L-shaped chrome trim...

But how do those kits address worn out hinge pin holes? Putting new bushings in worn holes does not work. Been there, done that.

I didn't do frame rails, but I replaced inner aprons and shock towers(bolted in the nice export brace to help with alignment), then radiator support, then I cut the floor and toeboards out, replaced the torque boxes, replace the toeboards, and finally a one piece floor. When I'm replacing anything, I leave as much of the original panels as I can to help align the new panels. Everything seems to be going okay so far. I'm down to wheelhouses and quarters now. Have already replaced trunk panels, rear brace, tail light panel, and quarter corners. Plus a partial rear frame rail.

I'm replacing inners and outers on both sides. They are a be-otch to mate together. They just are not formed perfectly. However, I do not like the look of patches, so I'm willing to wrestle around with these things to get them to fit. Just my opinion. You can always try patching it to see if you are happy with it. Worse things to happen is you change your mind and are out all the time.

You might be interested in this: http://www.mustangsteve.com/hinge.html

My car is a bare shell.... sorry.

Oh gotcha... sounds like a nice challenge ahead of you!

Are you planning to fab some kind of brackets that bolt in the hinge locations and the striker location? I imagine you might just want to measure your own car and test fit as you go. Did your doors close well with nice gaps? If so, I would feel okay going with what is already there and bracing it and not modifying it to measurements someone else might take from a slightly different place... just my opinion.