Rcodenewf

Here are some pics of the front pass torque box. As you can see there was quite a gap between the frame rail and one of the tabs even with the top of the TB pushed to the right. So I measured the gap and cut the flange off and inserted a strip. Then it worked out ok.

Here are some pics of the front pass torque box. As you can see there was quite a gap between the frame rail and one of the tabs even with the top of the TB pushed to the right. So I measured the gap and cut the flange off and inserted a strip. Then it worked out ok.

Now that looks awesome! Nice to see all your hard work show under that paint... Keep up the great work......John

Now that looks awesome! Nice to see all your hard work show under that paint... Keep up the great work......John

Thanks! Just got to figure out this rear torque box issue. Looking at the drivers side (original) it would appear that i have to cut the tab at the bottom off thereby letting the side tabs come into contact with the inner rockers........John

Thanks! Just got to figure out this rear torque box issue. Looking at the drivers side (original) it would appear that i have to cut the tab at the bottom off thereby letting the side tabs come into contact with the inner rockers........John

Just finished up the front torque box and toe extension...i'll post some pics soon. The rear torque box is a Scott Drake piece...part # MM102CRH. The sticker on it says 64-70. Written on it in marker is 64-68. Problem is, with it clamped in place the tabs are rougly 3/4 of an inch away from the side of the inner rocker. I'm assuming that for a 69/70 convertible it has to be trimmed? Just making sure i was supplied with the right piece...thanks. Any pics from underneath would be great. I'll search the forum as well........thanks.....John

Just finished up the front torque box and toe extension...i'll post some pics soon. The rear torque box is a Scott Drake piece...part # MM102CRH. The sticker on it says 64-70. Written on it in marker is 64-68. Problem is, with it clamped in place the tabs are rougly 3/4 of an inch away from the side of the inner rocker. I'm assuming that for a 69/70 convertible it has to be trimmed? Just making sure i was supplied with the right piece...thanks. Any pics from underneath would be great. I'll search the forum as well........thanks.....John

So, did you confirm that the wires are connected properly as i suggested below? ....John

Just throwing this out: Verify that the black wire from the ignitor is attached to the negative of the coil and the red is attached to the positive of the coil. Also, attached to the positive side of the coil is the wire from the ignition which is hot with the key in the 'on' position as well as 'crank'. Normally this is a separate new wire run from the switch to the positive eliminating the resistor wire in the ford wiring. If the wiring checks out, then i'd throw another known 'good' coil on it and try it. ....John

Does it have headers on it? Maybe with the initial torque of the engine the headers may be hitting something? Have a look under it for anything that is close at all that might come in contact with headers/exhaust etc when under load. How are the motor mounts..nothing broken there? That Z bar fits over a ball on the engine side and then over the bracket on the frame. There's felt washers that go in there to keep it somewhat cushioned and to keep the grease in. Try to move it from side to side and check for slop. Just throwing out some ideas for you....john

Just to remove grunge/oil etc. you can also use oven cleaner and then hose it off...works good too. John

I and my friends have dealt with Mark at Toploader Heaven. His prices are good, his instructions excellent and he includes some of the required tools. ...John

Sent you a pm on your rockers............John

Glad it worked out for you...good luck with it....John

Wow..i don't know what to say. He was great when i dealt with him. Maybe....he's taken on too much work. But in any event he should be returning your emails for sure. Maybe i'll email him as a past customer and suggest that he at least return emails advising of the status of the repair. john EDIT: I just sent him an email with "referrals" in the heading.

Try this site: He's awesome to deal with... http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalve.html

Try this for a starter: Take out each mixture screw and shoot some carb cleaner in there and then hit it with compressed air. Compressed air will also shoot up the airhorn cleaning out the low speed air bleeds. Screw the mixture screws back in and bottom them out lightly. Back them both out 1 1/2 turns as a starter and fire the engine up. Let it warm up and then see if it idles somewhat on its own. If it still refuses to idle back each screw out 1/4 of a turn and see if that improves it...if it does then you know you are going in the right direction. If not bo back in that 1/4 turn and then 1/4 turn more. Again, see if it likes it. Just curious, what do you have base timing set at with vacuum advance disconnected? John

Did it run fine prior to the cam install?

Something like this: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-tank-tone-metallic-coating-aerosol-13-oz.html John

Have you checked for vacuum leaks...maybe a hose off somewhere or an open vacuum port? John

Check out this site: http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalve.html I've dealt with him in the past and he's awesome. Right on his site he offers his services for free to you if you are in the middle of a rebuild. Drop him an email. .........John

Lookin' Good!!!:clap:

That would definitely be two steps back...fix what ya got and enjoy!

Thanks Bill...i'll try to keep the photos up to date....regards....John