Black_69_FB

Those are the axles I used when I upgraded to 31 spline last fall. Bought the center section/gears all set up & ready to pop in from a place in N. Carolina called Nine Inch Nodular. I think I still have his contact info if anyone needs it.

Sorry, I never answered your question - I'm about halfway between Indy & Fort Wayne. Big town of Converse. We even have our own flashing 4-way light! :w00t:

Speaking of rimblow steering wheel restoration... has anyone tried the repro woodgrain wheels yet? http://www.cjponyparts.com/steering-wheel-wood-grain-rim-blow-1969/p/STW9/ Just wondering how they stack up against a restored wheel. edited to add: Kentucky Mustang has them for about $80 less... http://stores.kentuckymustang.com/-strse-22571/1969-Mustang-Rim-Blow/Detail.bok

Thanks guys, that's the kind of info I was after. Mostly worried about taking the hands off, or missing something and pulling too hard and breaking things. ksquared, the TKO shifts OK to me, but I don't have anything to really compare it to. It's the first manual transmission I've had in a looooong time. It's probably going to be notchier than a T-5 or toploader. Some people have trouble shifting if the rpms are much over 6k but I don't race or power shift. More like granny shift :P All I can really do around here is a 1st-2nd run anyway (55 mph 2 lane roads). If I wind it out in 2nd gear to around 6300 rpm I'm already over 70 mph. If I stayed in it in 3rd I'd be doing 80+ pretty quick... good for reckless driving :scared: But I would never do that :innocent:

Just bought a quartz clock conversion from Instrument Services Inc... but I forgot to order the instructional DVD. Are there any "gotcha's" to look out for? Any advice to make this go smoothly would be welcome. :smile:

If you're talking about an aftermarket Ron Morris / Painless style harness, mostly I've seen people put those in the glove box or they'll remove the glove box and have the fuse block mounted behind the door for easy access. I very nearly did exactly that, but my under-dash harness was in good enough condition I chose to keep it and simply replaced the under-hood section with a factory style repop, because it was pretty brittle & had a few cuts/splices. However, after having a go at replacing a glass fuse - laying on my back, scrunched between the seat and the steering wheel, breaking the cheap little fuse puller AND the glass fuse - I decided I didn't like glass fuses any more. So after a little thought on the matter, I bought some of those fuse taps for the glass style fuses and a little fuse block: I pulled all the old fuses out of the original fuse block, cleaned all the contacts, and stuck the fuse taps in without reinstalling the old glass fuses. I used wadded-up aluminum foil to keep the fuse taps nice & tight in the clips: I then made a wiring harness about 15" long or so using some female push-on spade connectors so I could connect the new fuse block to the taps in the old fuse block. The new fuse block is secured up behind the dash where it's nice & safe out of the way, but I can still get to it to drop it down if I need to change a fuse.

Wait 'til you drive it... :punk:

Maybe a sticky float or debris in the carb or possibly debris in the gas tank?

Don't know the answer to your question, but you may find the tire fitment guide on http://www.dodgestang.com helpful. In fact here's a direct link: http://www.dodgestang.com/mustang.htm

Good call, should of thought of him myself. I must have been :sleep1: at the wheel :)

Might try these guys: http://www.allclassicmustang.com/index.html Don't know if what you are looking for is reproduced, but if not, I've had good luck with them for the odd used part I couldn't find elsewhere. If all else fails you may have to resort to buying a full under dash harness...

Same setup here. I like having all four tires the same size in case of a flat. Which reminds me, I need to get a spare!

Pakrat, thanks for posting that pic. I thought those Fiero seats would lend themselves well to the Mach 1 style upholstery, and it certainly looks like they do. The only reservation I have is that the material he uses looks more 'dark gray' black than 'black' black in some photographs. Going to have to think about this one, planning on finally getting to the seats later this spring/summer.

If you have some decent speakers, it should. They put out 50w x 4. I have a fairly loud exhaust. If you want some idea of the noise level, I have a little in-car video on youtube. If you happen to watch past the 3 minute mark, I think I had it cranked to around 23 at that time (out of how many I don't know, I haven't felt the need to go past 30 on the volume). Front speaker is the dual voice coil 5x7 from RetroSound, rear speakers are Pioneer TS-A6993R (460w).

I used the Mosers. I left the original retainers on the old 28 spline axles because I had them & the old peg-leg center section sold. I know what you are saying though, the stock retainers have just a little bit of a 'bowl' to them & I wondered if I would have had the binding issue if I had used them instead. What I thought was a bit off is, I used Moser bearings & retainers... seems like they would work, or have some warning not to use them together. Anyway, it's done now. Got about 15 miles in on the new gears before work today. Followed the 3rd member builder's advice & drove around town for about 10 minutes, and then parked it for a bit. Drove it for about 20 minutes & parked it again. Now I just have to be good & take it easy on the gears for about 485 more miles :angel:

Same here, Timken's.

Bumping for a quick update which may save someone a headache in the future. We ran into a problem during reassembly. Got the axles in & tightened down the retainers... and the axles would not spin. :no: Loosen the retainer, and it would spin OK. Got to looking at the axle bearings, and the digital calipers showed that the Moser bearing was 29/32" thick, compared to the stock bearing's 27/32". The flat Moser retainers combined with the extra thickness of the bearing caused a bind in my case. I had to get the bearings cut off, and put some stock-style bearings from the local auto parts store on there to fix the problem.

Welcome aboard Brian. Take off your coat & stay a while! :biggrin:

When you say 'stock export brace' do you mean the factory firewall to shock tower braces, like these?: http://coloradomustang.com/ShowItem/100045%20Mustang%20Firewall%20To%20Shock%20Tower%20Brace%201969%20-%201970.aspx If so, you'll want a true one-piece export brace like gsxrken was saying earlier in the thread, like so: http://www.lovemustangs.com/_a_Images%20used%20for%20forums/MM0205-Install_Monte_Carlo_Bar_pg01.jpg

Well, we got the car up on a lift this morning & got the disassebly done. Looked like crude oil in there, black & thick. Probably what it rolled off the line with in the fall of '68 :blink: Will try to get everything back together tomorrow. Hopefully this kills the vibration I've been trying to track down too.

I'll keep an eye out for that. I saw elsewhere on the internet where someone who has installed a lot of these Moser bearings said to toss the o-rings & you should be OK with the factory type seals. The guy who built the 3rd member assembly recommended specifically using the gasket I quoted above, as it should not need additional sealer. But I'm leaning toward using it anyway because it's too easy & I don't want to have to pull it again any time soon. Not a problem, I'll be working with a local shop as my single-car garage is too small to work in comfortably. I don't think I could even get the axles pulled in there (not wide enough) :lol: Hmmm... you made me double-check myself there. I did a quick test fit, all is good. Thanks for the heads up, will do. John, I don't know if I will be able to. I bought the 3rd member pre-assembled (thought it would be best in my case to leave it to someone who actually knows what they are doing), and I am working with a local shop to get my old one out & the new one in. I work second shift so it depends mostly on their schedule whether I will even be there to help with much of it. I am hoping my part consists of mainly doing a few figure 8's to help break in the clutches & driving the car to heat cycle the gears :) I did find a couple of links that might be helpful as far as disassembly/reassembly: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1049589-9-inch-oil-change-pics.html http://broncograveyard.com/dia/7/fo9dia.jpg The second link is to a pic of an exploded view of the Ford 9". Maybe someone who actually knows for sure can correct me if I'm wrong, but when I was trying to research this on the internet, I got the impression that the stock Ford 31 spline axle, for the small-bearing housings used in the Mustang, used the same bearing that the 28 spline axle does. Whereas some aftermarket axles were a bit beefier & needed a conversion bearing with a larger I.D. to fit them in a small bearing housing. In my case I used the 'direct fit' replacement axle from Superior through Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAG-PA6070C/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAG-PA6070D/ So hopefully I am good with a stock style small bearing. If not, I'll be finding out in a couple of days :oops: Thanks - I'll need it! Lem, thanks for the tip. Sounds like a great idea.

Ford friction modifier - check. Valvoline 75w90 - check (recommended by diff. builder). Housing-to-case gasket (fel-pro 3202) - check. Backing plate to retainer gasket (fel-pro 4828) - check. Copper washers! - check. I think that's all that's left to get. Thanks for the replies, guys :)

I'm getting geared up to upgrade to 31 spline axles & trac-lok center section. I have the axles, and the 3rd member should be here hopefully by next weekend. I think I have most everything I'm going to need, but I've never done this before and was hoping someone who had could double-check me & make sure I don't forget anything. For instance, isn't there a gasket to go between the retainers & the brake backing plate? I know I'll need the gasket to seal the center section case to the housing, any recommendation there? Here's what I have so far (see attachment). Plus if anybody has a recommendation for what oil to use and/or friction modifier, I need to grab some of that as well. Thanks in advance for any help.

I know this is an old thread, but I just ran across it today while doing a search. http://www.stordahl.com/heartlandfraud.html Looks like a recurring theme with this guy... glad things worked out in this case

I don't know much about the 428's myself, but here are a couple of links that might prove to be helpful: http://www.428cobrajet.com/id-main.html http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/