cmrmach1

Repro passenger side fender,straight no rust ,dents or damage. Hole was drilled for antenna and it was painted silver. Only installed on car for a short time. Located in westchester new york for pick up sorry no shipping $75 can't upload pictures send email if you would like them

I have a repro 69 fender for sale was installed on a car for a while and is painted no rust /damage . Must pick up in ny no shipping $100

I also searched for a good used one then bought the dynacorn one from cj's. Fit very well . Two minor issues: The upper edge where the door meets the quarter is squared off , and required minor reworking .this might not be a problem if you are not that picky and have a larger door gap, and one of the screw holes for the latch needed to be elongated. Both east fixes. I too was hesitant about ordering a repro , but very happy with it

I HAVE THESE ENGINES FOR SO LONG I HAVE THE 390 MIXED UP W/ ANOTHER ENG I HAD. THE ONE I WANT TO SELL IS THE ORIG ENG FROM A 69 GT MUSTANG PI GT BLOCK E1 DATE 8H8 may have 390 heads with non matching#s or date codes , need to hunt around some more. the short block was rebuilt . I have to look around for a intake but again not the orig one from this eng. i do have a lot of brackets, pulleys, carbs,flywheels etc. but would have to see how much i can piece together.

I have a complete 390 long block that was removed from a 69 gt 30 years ago. Also a disassembled 70 351-4v cleveland and fmx transfrom a 70 torino , A COMPLETE 70 351W , and a set of 428 heads . I'm looking to consolidate some stuff , so if anyone is interested pm me and we can talk, i'm in southern ny don't really want to ship, but if you can make arrangements might be able to work something out. Thanks

10-24 stainless oval head but the head is a little smaller then the normal you might have to get ti from a mustang supplier if you want it to look right

Getting ready to install my reproduction winshield , but am questioning the glued in height for the moulding. I was going to use the 3m 3/8 ribbon sealer , but since the new windshield is thinner than the original i think there will be a gap between it and the moulding . Anybody installed a new winshield lately? Looking for results / tips. Thanks

Thanks for the replys . I need to order the stock covers not the sport seats . Sale price for the distinctive industries front set on sale is $173. Cheapest i can find tmi is abour $225. I'd like to save $50 but not if the quality and finished prodect will be noticably different.

I have heard from a few sources that tmi seats are the best . Has anyone used the distinctive made ones and if so how was the quality? Cjponyparts is having a great sale right now 25% off but they only stock distinctive.

thanks slimegold i knew there was a simple answer.

I was getting ready to order front upholstery for my 69. I have 70cougar xr7 leather seats which i believe are the same as 70 mach seats . I want black w/ red stripe which my vender doesn't have listed for 70. I figured i would just order 69 black/red but i noticed the part numbers between all other 69 and 70 front sets are different. I thought the upolstery was the same for 69 and 70 only the location of the seat release hole had to be made in a different location (and there is no hole in the upholstery when you get it, right). Am i missing something or should i just order the 69?

Hey rail good luck with your project , missery loves company. I would also agree don't replace more than have to . If your torque box and floor support are good , just do the front rail. I've just finished removing the last bits of the assembly and am not looking forward to the grinding ,sandblasting and endless prep before welding the new parts in.

Well i did it. I removed the assembly. Still a lot more drilling and grinding before the new unit can go in, but no going back now . Sorry can't figure out how to add pictures

Right now i have screw type house jacks at the rad support. I need to raise them close to an inch to get the door to close properly. The other side where i already replaced the torque box is less noticeable. When i get everything exact i'll tack on a few channels and cross braces. It seems most people doing this are working on a shell w/o doors, so most would not even have noticed it. I would guess the weight of the front clip normally does cause it to droop a fraction of an inch. I'm thinking i might just bring it back up 1/2 inch as a compromise . The body is pretty ridgid as a whole because if i raise it more than an inch the weight comes right off the front rocker support. It'll be next week before i can get back to it. I'll try and get a few pics on .

Picture 1 still scares me 468. My last concern before cutting has to do with supporting the front structure. Right now it is supported along the rockers . I was going to put stands under the radiator support,but i noticed the rear door gap has increased from having the front end hanging. Should i raise the rad support slightly to get the doors back where they were or should i just support it were it hangs. I imagine some flex is normal but how much is from rust?