MAD IN NC

and the problem is :whistling: I'd do it! Never can have enough of a good thing!

you have way to much time on your hands.........

The new 20" radiator required a fabbing of a bracket where it would sit on the two frame members that join under the cowl. A stock radiator will bolt on the cowl on the original mounting wholes but the after market one I went with had to drop all the way to the bottom. The car came with a 351W If it is a big block the radiator will drop to the bottom of the cowl and mount differently - sort of like the way I retrofitted the new one but with two mounting brackets - one on each side Here is a link to one of the mounting hardware options http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3556,31_Radiator-Mounting-Hardware.html For the hose - I went with the flex hose http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/48-STAINLESS-RADIATOR-HOSE-KIT-FORD-CHEVY-MOPAR-CHROME_W0QQitemZ260305544786QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260305544786&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_2423wt_0 BTW - I found a 16x20 radiator on e-bay.... don't know the seller but it could be a "glued" tank for that price http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUSTANG-69-70-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-MAVERICK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQitemZ270289232729#ht_1180wt_0 Good luck!

"If you can bump the car on but not start it with a key than it should not be the solenoid or the ground, it would have to be the switch or a lead to the switch. Wish it would "bump", does not.......... New does not mean good, it could be defective and if you have the same issue with the new and old switch then I don't discount it, I'd tend to believe that it only worked once because something is frying it after that meaning if you try to swap in a third switch than it might only work once too. Checked switch "resistance" before installing. Old = new....

Twist and turn! 1.) They should give ya a map to show the marked positive terminal side of the bulbs to the PCB... AND. 2. Depending on what color LED bulbs you bought you might have to remove the "covers" that are blue filters in the dash.............

I picked up the BeCool special from Summit which was 20" high x 26" wide for $199..... Goal is to get the car running now with minimal cutting so I modified to mount the radiator over the existing cowl until I decide later to cut and pull it back. First I want to understand the heat loading dynamics and see how she runs first before further modding. I made the mounts to bolt to the bottom and the sides and it laid in without cutting. 1 on bottom, 1 each side with Velcro on inside of brackets to prevent metal to metal rubbing. All mounts aluminum. The electric fan due to the March setup became a pusher on the outside versus a puller inside the engine compartment.... When I finalize I will cut the cowl and change the fan to a puller eventually, after everything is dialed in.... So far as little as she has run no problems! Pics are attached as best as I could get them as she is on a lift this week...... Good luck!

Thanks for the input all.... 69RavenConv - both new and old switch act the same - discounting the switch as a result. I've ordered the color coded wiring diagram and from there I will first go after the grounds once again and probably double up on the firewall to motor one per JC69Stang..... then trace the wires from the switch back to the solenoid..... then go after the turn signals and dash lights not working..... then if every thing is good - drink heavily!

manual - thanks Jerry....

Engine is IN! She started up . made it around the block and next time I tried to do it again and when it came to fire her up - nothing! Not a click or sound at all! Accessories position works as electric fuel pump flows etc. Lights work. Dash is out for a turn signal problem but she started wo dash before hand. Now nothing, no click, sound or anything except for fuel pump running in Accessory mode. Can get her to fire up by jumping the Batt in to Starter out lug on the Solenoid. Just love this 40 yr old wiring that everybody else had their hands in before me! I have replaced Solenoid, replaced ignition switch. What's next?

Thinking about going up Sunday with the Ford GT as the weather looks good. Look for me with the Blk/ Silver with the BBS (not pimped) wheels...

great - so somebody kept the link to the ugly one ROFL!

When you say "no signals", do you hear the flasher doing its thing or is it stony-silent when you move the lever? -STONE COLD SILENT Are all your dash lights still out as well? - YES It would be more helpful if you'd respond with the current behavior after fixing your ground. - HEADLIGHTS FIXED - Others? Still working them after reading your posts ! Since the signals and brake lights share the same wire to the tail lights, you can pretty well rule out everything from the turn signal switch back to the trunk. - BRAKE LIGHTS WORK'D! Which leaves the following possibilities: * Burnt out bulb on the dash for both signals (unlikely, but unclear if the rest of your dash lights are working) - CHECKED OK! * Blown 4A fuse on the panel for interior lights - CHECKED OK! * Bad turn-signal switch (this is a bummer to replace, but they do go bad, mine did) - Hope not my friend!~ * Loose connection of wires to turn signal switch connector - not seen but will be checked with MM this weekend Perhaps you could provide a complete accounting of your electrical issues right now as that will help narrow things down. Tom - Thanks TOM, wait till next weekend as I'm on the road again but I really thank you for the input as I look at it this instance I'm now fighting a 40 year old problem! Good news is that JME as a $1,300 replacement for an instrument panel :helpsmilie: [nothing against them] ROFL! Got to get it Going!!!! My case of OCD is growing as yours!

Well she runs! Started right up! Sounds sweet - more to come on that later.... Found one problem which there are interior lights, brake lights but no dash or head lights. Turned out to be a ground wire on the headlights was missing. Still no turn signals..... I'm going to hate today as I do the limbo under the dash. Other gremlins include loss of brake pressure with new booster BUT I couldn't be happier as she lives and sounds strong. Now to get her moving...

What's wrong with running open headers for the first 5 miles? Thats what I was planning to do.... Neighbors wont like me - but she will run!

Can't tell wo seeing the connector type or better pictures of the connector. 1st guess - Could be an antenna amp? Are there wires going from the box to the fuse block? 2nd guess - Noise filter? Need to see the connector shot first......

Check with Mustang Unlimited or CJ Pony

I went with Randall's Rack - power. Easy install! Will let you know in ~ 1.5 months how she handles as I'm still placing her back together. Mine has 225's in the front - that is why I went with the power setup. Randall uses a low volume GM pump which did bolt up to the front of the new engine. It took ~ 3-4 hr's to install wo Engine. With an engine probably another 30 minutes tops. see pics at http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?p=41104#post41104

Check this guy out. Sells on E-bay. Has the template for the Mach 1 stripes but will make any color combo you want. As my car is going to be Silver / Blk, he made a set of BLK only stripes (gold cut out) including the trunk stripe for $50! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-MACH-1-COMPLETE-STRIPE-KIT-GOLD-BLACK-NEW-NEW-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a552Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3911Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320292803350QQitemZ320292803350 His ebay name is grafix65. It's worth checking it out - I'm glad I did....

Looks like it's time to custom fab some more brackets..... GT-350, did you put a relay in place for the power?

The new engine requires the placement of an electric fuel pump. I picked up a Carter unit to feed the dual pumper Holley 750 but the question is where to place it? I would like to place in the rear axle well but with the Magnflow 2 1/2" exhaust space is really tight.. So the question is has any buddy mounted an electric Fuel pump up front in the engine bay or in front of the radiator cowl? Looking for the pro- cons or placing the Electric fuel pump in front. Thanks......

Just ripped out my box for the R&P settup.... 69RavenConv if ya need it PM me.....

link didn't work for me

seems like every FPA header set coated is $800! :yes:

ya.... I've had minor problems and I'm sure I'll run into more but face the facts - these cars are 40 yr's old and even from the factory the gaps and finish wasn't what I would call perfect... I buy from CJ PONY, Mustang Unlimited and NPD. Also remember that you get what you pay for.

I went for the FPA headers... Works of art! Ported to match the heads. Tell them what linkage you have, if you have or are planning for a R&P etc.... http://www.fordpowertrain.com/ http://forums.stangnet.com/634142-fpa-headers-installed-video-open-headers.html