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69RavenConv

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Posts posted by 69RavenConv

  3. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, danno said:

    I am now want to change my bulbs to LEDs.  I cannot see where you specify the part number of the bulb you used and where you got it. 

    Danno, I got them on eBay. Sorry, I searched my archives but could not find any record of the seller or part number. I bought them 5 or 6 years ago so they probably aren't around any more anyway.

    However, you want to search for white 194 or T-10 LED bulbs. Look for the style in the picture below. As noted above, the 5050 chips are brighter than the 2825. I think I got the 2825 and they are ok but slightly on the dim side. You may want to buy a few of each and compare.

    Here's a link to some I might try if I were buying today.

     

    s-l1600.jpg

  5. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, Kris said:

    I’ve heard quite a few people say not to use body filler on it which is why I was thinking epoxy. Did you drill out the existing stud rivets and just used regular pop rivets? 

    Yes, I am sure there are better materials to use - the good news is it doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. Because my tack strip was toast, I did what I needed to remove it. I'm pretty sure I used pop rivets to attach the home-made replacement but it's been a long time ago and I was improvising as I went along so the details are lost. I'll check my archives, I may have taken some pictures. I remember being pleasantly surprised that it all worked when I was done - I wasn't sure it would.

    I think you and aslanefe have a better approach with epoxy based fillers

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I did not rebuild my frame but I repaired damage a long time ago. My memory is fuzzy but I recall I used body filler to fill the worst of the pitting in the aluminum  and I pop riveted a piece of plastic side molding to replace the tack strip. I don't think there were any replacement tack strips available back then but I found a piece of molding at the auto parts store that was very similar. It held the staples and has served me well for many years so I guess it's ok.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I want to say the OEM filter was located at the input to the carburetor. It was a metal (brass?) fitting with a screen-type filter element inside. Maybe an inch or two long that threaded between the hard fuel line and the carb body - badically part of the carb like Redstang said (welcome to the site!).

    But it's been years since I looked my original 2100 and my memory is getting old. I inserted an aftermarket filter between the pump and my Holley carb years ago.

     

    Caseyrhe reacted to this

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/22/2020 at 3:57 PM, G-Dub said:

    Thanks! No shade thrown but, I hope it doesn't take me that long! I'll probably always tinker and improve but I'd like to be behind the wheel again sooner than later!

    No offense taken - it took me a while to find a place with the space where I could work on it.

    General restoration rule-of-thumb - make your best time and money estimates. Then triple them. :)

  20. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/21/2020 at 4:54 PM, TexasEd said:

    "A car that looks period correct for 1969 but might have subtle improvements for performance, reliability, or comfort."

    That's very close to mine. Back when I started out a long time ago, I thought I'd keep it all original. Even bought some bias ply tires. Then I figured a plain-jane  F-code was boring, so I went with some period correct mods - stuff you could have done back in the early 70's. I had a set of vintage Ansen Sprints, an Edelbrock F4-B intake,  and even a vintage Holley 600. 

    Then I added some invisible modern stuff - Pertronix and headlight relays, LEDs for all the interior and dash lights. Mini-starter. Used a retro roller cam just to up the cost of the engine rebuild :)

    Now that I've driven it for a few years, disk brakes and a T5 on are on the list to make it more fun on the road.

    Never used the bias ply tires. They're dry rotting away in my shop with, like, 100 miles wear on them :)

     

    TexasEd reacted to this

  22. Posted · Report reply

    It is a bit of an honor system. You say "I have a classic that I take really good care of and don't drive a lot, so I should get a price break" and they say "Do you have a daily driver that you take to work in rush hour and during blizzards while your classic is safe in the garage?".  That's kind of the unspoken agreement which seems fair to me.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, TexasEd said:

    I also get the starburst effect from all the small pits and scratches.  I was looking into a new windshield but when I bought a paint correction kit for my truck I saw they had windscreen polishing compounds and pads so I bought some.  I plan on trying a test area on my windshield. 

    Has anyone done this?

    I will probably still get a new one eventually that has tint (All my class is clear, no tint at all).

    I bought a bag of cerium oxide windshield polish a while ago but have not tried it. Most comments on the web say it doesn't work very well but I may give it a try before I go to the work of removing the windshield.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the feedback guys, sounds like NPD is the way to go. Curious about the setting blocks, too - that's a generous offer MTF but is it something I could buy or make easily without using up your stock? I vaguely recall some sort of spacers at the base of the windshield when I put it in years ago but I could be mistaken. Reusable? 

    Did you guys use the butyl strip or urethane? I did the old school butyl back in the day, which I'm inclined to do again but I could be talked into urethane if it makes sense. 

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