Paint stripping thoughts

[jjstang 51]

The plan was to take the car to a media blaster then take it home and put a coat of epoxy in it. Even though I don't have any real paint gun skills, I figured most areas were not showing and other would have to sanded for the final paint anyways.  Or something like that.  Now I'm CONSIDERING stripping it myself but I realize this is going to be time consuming.  So what do you treat the newly stripped places with as you go along.  Don't want it to start rusting before I finish stripping.  Still plan on an epoxy coat afterwards. 

[Caseyrhe 650]

When stripping mine, I was able to strip the whole car in one weekend, approx 15-20 hours. Stripper from the big box store, cheap brushes, and razor blades. Then I came back, sanded, then a light coat of rattle can primer to keep from rusting. That's what my paint/body shop guy told me to do anyway, saved a bit of money doing it that way. Was also able to see what rust or bondo areas the car might have, which mine had none and could take pics for documentation.

[zach69grande 25]

What brand of stripper did you use? I have new doors, fender, hood..all i need to strip is the top, quarters and trunk..Probably should knock it out myself

 

When stripping mine, I was able to strip the whole car in one weekend, approx 15-20 hours. Stripper from the big box store, cheap brushes, and razor blades. Then I came back, sanded, then a light coat of rattle can primer to keep from rusting. That's what my paint/body shop guy told me to do anyway, saved a bit of money doing it that way. Was also able to see what rust or bondo areas the car might have, which mine had none and could take pics for documentation.

[MN69Grande 203]

So I've worked with all of the paint strippers from the Home Depot, Lowes, and up here we have Menard's.  What I found was this - the most effective and best working stripper was by far the most caustic one.  The 15 min Kleanstrip I think.  It used to come in an orange can.  The 2nd best stuff for us was the Citrius based stuff but you have to use at least twice as much.  Then the other brands seemed to work to varying levels.  I've stripped steal, aluminum, and wood all with the Kleanstrip stuff and it worked really well.  Afterwards I would recommend wiping it with mineral oil to remove the residue.  Then 3M has some rust inhibitor (I don't know where you get it) that also supposedly seals the metal some how though primer probably works too.  

 

Rather than razor blades Home Depot has plastic scrapers.  I like using these.  The stripper eventually eats them up so by a few.  For getting into cracks we use dental style tools from the auto store.  I never used it on the car but very fine steel wool works when you get down to the last little bits of paint on other things might be worth testing here.  I've used all of this on accessory brackets.

 

Also make sure you are WELL ventilated and moving air.  This stuff will make you high as a kite and fast.  I am sure I lost 10 IQ points working with paint stripper over 10 years.

[JayEstes 172]

Most effective stripper I have used is "aircraft stripper" - available at your local HW store/home Depot/Loews. Really cuts everything on the metal, and doesn't take long.  very messy job, though.

[jjstang 51]

I imagine liquid paint stripper is very messy, used on furniture.  Does it have any affect on rust or undercoating? 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Most effective stripper I have used is "aircraft stripper" - available at your local HW store/home Depot/Loews. Really cuts everything on the metal, and doesn't take long.  very messy job, though.

+1.  That's the same paint remover I've always used.  Used it on a couple of cars.  I'd go to an automotive paint store if I were to do that again.  They should know what materials you will need beyond paint remover and the epoxy primer/sealer.  For example, you will also need something to etch the bare metal after the paint is removed to eliminate any beginning traces of rust, a grease and wax remover, and maybe some tack clothes.  We also use to sand the bare metal with 80 grit sandpaper before applying the first coat of primer, or epoxy in your case.

 

Do you have an enclosed garage to store the car?  Outdoors, the bare metal will begin rusting before you get the paint removed from the entire car.  If the process goes too slow you can always do sections at a time.  It also makes the project more manageable and less overwhelming.

 

Last thing about chemical paint removing.  If you come across body filler in the process, it will need to be removed as well.  The paint stripper usually softens and damages it so it must be removed.

[Caseyrhe 650]

Kleinstrip GEL, is what I used. Scotchbrite stripping pads work well too, hold up better than the wool. Don't forget the rubber gloves, stripper will burn your skin after a awhile

[Raven R code 281]

Used Aircraft stripper and metal Brillo pads. Works great. You can reuse the Brillo pads over and over, after the stuff dries just crunch the old residue out of them.

[barnett468 418]

you can also see if there is a mobile soda blaster in your area.