Battery Solenoid Positive Side Issue

[408frank 1]

Because I use many electrical components like electric water pump, fuel pump, fan, SMD box, etc. I've had to add many relays to help amp drawing issues plus I had to add distribution blocks to support all the additional connections that would normally be connected to the solenoid.  I've done all the amp draw test and only found one connection that will draw done the battery about 25% overnight.  Using an amp setting on my meter all connections show zero, like they should, except the black-yellow stripe cable, shows a .009 to .010 amp draw.  This is the original cable that has a built-in resistor at the solenoid connection and another resistor about six inches down before it goes into a wiring bundle.  So I leave the positive side of the battery disconnected until I need to use the car.

My issue is I don't know where the other end of the cable connects to, ignition switch, ignition relay, light switch, etc.  I know that if it is not connected to the positive side of the solenoid the ignition switch is dead so car does not start. 

 

Is one solutiion to cut away the original black-yellow stripe cable, which has a buil-in protection, and replace with the same gage wire with an in-line fuse?

By the way this is a drag car with a 408 stroker that has it's own mini starter with it's own solenoid and single wire 150 powermaster voltage regulator.

    

[69RavenConv 287]

It looks like the black/yellow supplies the headlight switch, fuse box, and ignition switch. You could try disconnecting each one-at-a-time, and see where the drain is.

See the attached diagrams.

CHANGE THE EXTENSION FROM TXT TO TIF TO VIEW.

 

 

69MUST.txt

69MUST2.Txt

[Midlife 814]

There is no fusible link or a resistor wire on the main power feed for 1969; it was somewhere mid-year of the 1970 production that a fusible link was added.  There were fusible links for unusual systems, such as power windows, rear defogger, etc., but I have not run across them in 1969.  A current draw of 9 to 10 milliamps is quite acceptable, usually traced to a clock or a radio memory device.  That level of draw you see should not draw the battery down 25% unless your battery is on its last legs. 

 

The only resistor wires in a 69 are for the alternator lamp and for the CVR input feed, neither of which should be active with the key in the OFF position.  I'd love to see a picture of the two resistor wires you claim are near the starter solenoid.

[408frank 1]

Thanks to all that replied...  Got Luckey and found if I don't leave the key in the ignition there is no draw down.  So looks like the tumblers do not return to a complete setting when the key is completely vertical.

69RavenConv.... In addition to the items you pointed out there is also a relay, which I replaced but it didn't make any difference, in the sequence.

[ClubSport 29]

Had a draw even switch turn off : it was the alternator that had a fried diode.

[ashleesmach1 28]

Yummy Fried diodes!