Raven R code 281 Report post Posted June 10, 2016 .....Is getting pulled before it goes out for paint. Question: engine runs great right now but it has sat since 1995. It has coolant(from 1987) in it that was clean when it was drained last month. With original 11,000 miles on it, I'm wondering how far I should tear it down. My plan is to put new intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. A friend recommended that I changed the head gaskets since it sat so long. I'm not ready yet for a total rebuild yet so where do I stop? Thanks in advance , Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 I would to the main exterior gaskets. Take a good look at the timing chain to see if it needs replacement. Head gaskets are a six of one or half dozen of another thing. The engine only has 11,000 miles on it? Remember, time is harder on things than mileage. If the water jackets look clean and rust free, then I would put money the head gaskets are in great shape as well. Did you do a compression test? B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 My 390 sat rebuilt for approx 8 years. Before doing anything I rented a scope to check inside all the cylinders checking for rust and ?? I then proceeded to fog the cylinders, let it sit for 2 days and fogged again. I then squirted some thirty weight in each cylinder, let sit for 1 day before turning over by hand, primed the oil system using an old disb shaft, and used the starter to turn it over till oil pressure built up, installed plugs, then fired her up. Oh course she smoked due to the oils I put in, but after a brief moment smoke stopped, reached operating temps, broke in cam, shut down, changed oil/filter, then ran compression test, all good. Everyone will have their own opinion, but mine on the head gaskets would be if no rust apparent in coolant, then gaskets should be fine. I would replace all gaskets you mentioned, valve covers, oil pan, distrib and intake, only if changing. While you have the pan off, I would also change the rear main seal, there's a real good chance it dried out, got brittle, and will leak. If your running an automatic, go ahead and change the front seal, pan gasket, rear seal, and o ring on fill tube. I feel the most important of all the above is priming the oil system prior to starting, flushing all the junk to the pan/filter, then changing oil shortly there after starting. Fogger available at auto zone, don't use WD-40 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 No compression test performed . I never thought about the rear main seal....that can be done by when pulling the oil pan? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 Yes you can only do the rear main with the oil pan off. B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 Yes you can only do the rear main with the oil pan off. B. Good to know.....consider it done! I've posted this before. You can hear it run after being dormant nearly 20yrs : Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 I would check the timing chain, and if it still has the original timing set with nylon teeth on the sprocket, then replace it with a double roller timing chain set. The nylon teeth have a habit of breaking off and then going places in your engine where you don't want them. I'd also pull the heads and take them to get hardened seats so you can run pump gas without a lead additive. They can check the seals then too. I'd change the seals on the tranny also while the engine was out, and send the distributor out to have it re-curved. While the engine is out would also be a good time to really look hard at your master cylinder and booster. If they seem like they are on the last leg, it is much easier to replace those while the engine is out. Also goes without saying to change spark plugs while the engine is out. They will never be so easy to change while the engine is in! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 I would do the freeze plugs while you have it out if it doesn't have brass plugs in it now .Drop the oil pan and do a rear main seal and the timing cover seal ,even if they seem good the start up with them dry from sitting will probably burn them on start up .Fresh oil and filter also Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 Fogger available at auto zone, don't use WD-40 Stabil fogging oil- good info- never heard of it before Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 11, 2016 From an old school point of view, and what you have posted here. It would be the smart thing to do in my opinion to tear it down and inspect it. depending on what you find at that point you will know what needs to be done. First its out of the car an easily done not breaking your back or scratching your new paint. Second after sitting that long the cost of a gasket set is small compared to pulling it back out to do it all over again. Soo.... Do you feel lucky? .....Is getting pulled before it goes out for paint. Question: engine runs great right now but it has sat since 1995. It has coolant(from 1987) in it that was clean when it was drained last month. With original 11,000 miles on it, I'm wondering how far I should tear it down. My plan is to put new intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. A friend recommended that I changed the head gaskets since it sat so long. I'm not ready yet for a total rebuild yet so where do I stop?Thanks in advance ,Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted June 12, 2016 Do everything that is easy with the engine out of the car and hard with the engine in the car. You will have time, and it wont cost much. Sounds like it needs carb work as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larryc94 38 Report post Posted June 12, 2016 Valve seals Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted June 12, 2016 Great info guys! Thinking about past issues.....my intake manifold gasket leaked right next to the pass side head.would it help to use some sort of rtv on both sides of the gasket this time....and if so, what would be the best product to use ? Looking at all the seeping oil spots, I'm thinking I want to use rtv on both sides of every gasket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted June 12, 2016 Anyone have good luck with cast iron paint on the factory headers? I remember I painted them and the paint burned off soon after. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted June 12, 2016 You have to use RTV at the bottom four corners of the intake to ensure a good seal there. I would also use a little RTV around the water jackets on both sides of the intake manifold gaskets. No need for it any where else. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites