Shaker Scoop Refurbish

[RPM 1,190]

I'm about to start the redo on the shaker assembly. My only concern is how all y'all prepped the scoop. As the material feels like some sort of plastic, did you use chemical strip, sand it, media blast or something else. I'd like to media blast it if there is a media available that won't ruin the finish.

 

Oh, by the way, I paid a whopping $25 for this shaker back in the mid 90's. Saw it sitting on the motor of a boat for sale on the side of the road, and offered the guy $25. But then I had to locate a shaker hood. Which I did, for another $25. A smart man would sell both them and go back to a stock Mach 1 set up.

[barnett468 418]

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A factory top is pot metal [aluminum] and the mid plate and base are steel . . Repo's are often pladstic . . You can scrape the inside of the scoop and if it looks silver, it is metal.

 

You can safely media blast the top with plastic beads or walnut shell or baking soda . . You cal also use Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Stripper which is typically available at hardware and auto parts stores.

 

After repainting it you can use a narrow silver "paint pen" to put the silver back on top of the ribs . . Lowes or Home Depot may have the pens, otherwise you can get them from industrial hardware stores or Graingers or Amazon or arts and craft stores like Michaels.

 

There is a rubber seal that goes under the top to catch then divert water away from the top of the engine . . These can still be found NOS.

 

If that is a cobra Jet shaker and the hood is factory and in perfect condition, both items might be worth around $2000.00 . . If you have the orig snorkel, if would increase the value . . Dynacorn has come out with the 428 base in metal.

[RPM 1,190]

Pot metal huh? Woulda never guessed, even with all of the pot metal already on the car. Yes, it's an original Cobra Jet shaker that I've made fit the hood opening with the 351W motor and Weiand Stealth intake. I've got some walnut shell media around here that I can use to strip the paint. And I'm just guessing they were painted when new. I did a couple of test runs with the paint pen to check color on the fins.  I already purchase a repop rubber shaker seal, we'll see how it fits. 

 

The air cleaner was missing the snorkel when purchased, and I've got too many things remaining to get this thing on the road again than to go changing the hood. I was more or less just thinking back on what I should have done. Thanks mucho for the info Mike!

[barnett468 418]

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Unfortunately, I can;t open the pdf file for some reason.

 

The shaker tops were painted from the factory, and that paint is incredibly hard and may take a bit of blasting to remove, so don't be surprised if it does . . If the paint on it is decent, you may be better off just sanding it lightly with wet 600 etc then spraying over it because it ain't never gonna flake off.

 

You can buy repo snorkels and heat tubes that are 100% identical to an original, plus Dynacorn may also make them . . My friend is still a Dynacorn dealer and I can ask him about them if you want, however, none of them are cheap.

[RPM 1,190]

The paint being as hard as it is makes sense now and is probably why I thought it to be a plastic. The weight however, should have been a clue. I might just sand and paint it with some 2k.  

 

This M code is so far from stock I can't see buying a correct snorkel. Besides, my Monte Carlo bar is in the way of the end of the snorkel. I've got an older snorkel/heat riser that fits the air cleaner base which I'll probably modify to fit. I'd rather have the m/c bar where it is than a correct snorkel. 

 

Thanks for the info Mike.

[barnett468 418]

The paint being as hard as it is makes sense now and is probably why I thought it to be a plastic. The weight however, should have been a clue. I might just sand and paint it with some 2k.  

 

This M code is so far from stock I can't see buying a correct snorkel. Besides, my Monte Carlo bar is in the way of the end of the snorkel. I've got an older snorkel/heat riser that fits the air cleaner base which I'll probably modify to fit. I'd rather have the m/c bar where it is than a correct snorkel. 

 

Thanks for the info Mike.

 

No prob . . Also, you can actually probably buy a cap that fits over the snorkel hole in the base if you don't want to run a snorkel at all . . I have never bought one so I am not certain it will fit but it might be worth a try.

 

Here's a link to the photo . . The site won't let me post the actual photo.

 

https://www.mustangsplus.com/image.php?type=P&id=2219

[RPM 1,190]

Cool idea! Wonder how cold starts will handle it. Just another idea I never thought of. How do you come up with these peculiar facts and knowledge?

[barnett468 418]

Cool idea! Wonder how cold starts will handle it. Just another idea I never thought of. How do you come up with these peculiar facts and knowledge?

 

LOL, well I have been buying, selling, repairing, and restoring vintage muscle cars full time for a living for around 30 years, and before that, i did it in my spare time for extra cash . . i also combined part of my business with a friend of mine whom asked me to open a mustang shop so i could hire him but after i told him i didn't want a shop that big, he opened one himself and i combined part of my biz with his which benefited both of us.

 

it was one of the biggest mustang repair and parts shops in the western us . . below is a photo of it with my 68 kr500 shelby convertible in the front and this photo is also in the california pony cars wholesale catalog for dealers.

 

i also sold five decent 67 and 68 fastbacks to the the people that built the eleanor cars for the remake of gone in 60 seconds.

 

as far as using the cap on the snorkel inlet, it will decrease the amount of available air to the engine so you would need to hook your vacuum flap up to full time vacuum if you do that.

 

http://www.calponycarswholesale.com/dealers.html

 

 

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[Dave R. 85]

No prob . . Also, you can actually probably buy a cap that fits over the snorkel hole in the base if you don't want to run a snorkel at all . . I have never bought one so I am not certain it will fit but it might be worth a try.

 

Here's a link to the photo . . The site won't let me post the actual photo.

 

https://www.mustangsplus.com/image.php?type=P&id=2219

 

Will the motor get enough air with that cap in place? Doesn't the flapper open only under low vacuum?  Dave R.

I guess we were posting at the same time.

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I used motor cycle engine case paint ,i think it is called VH1? I glass beaded the last one first and the VH1 looked just like the factory finish when it was done .This is very tough paint and works very well for pot metal .you can get it at any motorcycle shop .I do all my Ford valve covers with it ,and it comes in several colors .

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

The snorkel opening can be closed with a screen like the 67 -68  non smog GT 390s were .

[RPM 1,190]

Dang, I kinda like that screen too! Well, my vacuum motor es no bueno, and I ain't spending $100 or whatever they now cost to replace it. My flap is open now w/o vacuum and won't close when I hook up the mity-vac to it. So...I'll not worry if it's open all the time and keep the $100. I'm getting more and more like my dad and brother, Frugal McDougal.

[barnett468 418]

you ca get similar screen at most hardware or lumber supply stores and jb weld it in then paint it . . its basically similar to chicken coop screen.

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Home Depot has a nice screen ,i think it is bird screen for keeping birds out .I found it in the with the attic vents .

[shaun071 62]

The shakers fitted to the aussie falcon gt only came with the cap- no snorkels. Then again we don't have winters like you guys either

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks guys, all good stuff!

[Mach1 Driver 560]

http://www.calponycarswholesale.com/dealers.html

 

 

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Aw darn it! Until last year I practically lived in your lap in Lake Forest, and never knew you were there. I retired and moved to Atlanta.

[darrylwie 10]

Can someone tell me which vaccum line the flapper should be hooked up to?  I just recently added a shaker to my car, and don't know where the vacuum line should go, looks like I just need a T in another line, but don't know which one.  Also, from the comments above, it sounds like maybe I don't need to worry about it?  I have the correct snorkel, but because my monte carlo bar is in the way, I didn't know what to do with the opening in the air cleaner.  I like the screen idea, which would allow more airflow?

Thanks

[Dave R. 85]

If the flapper is open full time won't rain and wash water get into the carb? I believe that the manifold fitting that supplies vacuum for my brake booster has a nipple on it for the flapper vacuum hose.   Dave R.

[Brian Conway 264]

This is what the air cleaner looks like without the mid-plate and scoop on top.  So yes if the flapper is open or missing all together it's possible to get water into the carb.   Brian

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I ran my old Mach 1 with the flapper open for 8 years with out any problems .

[RPM 1,190]

This is for 1970, but I read that it attaches to the vacuum tree on the rear of the intake manifold.

[Vicfreg 773]

I have also used the Home Depot gutter screen for the opening. For the flapper you can use a manual choke cable and run it inside the car and operate the flapper manually