MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 Not true. My 1837 Essex overheated mightily until I invested in the Evans kit. Well I'm not saying that the car is over heating. Just that it's running hotter than I'd like. Part of all of this maybe expectations. One claim is that Evan's doesn't boil until 375 degrees which is way past the boiling point of 50/50 and that it heats more evenly but I have no way of measuring that. Max Power - can you share some of your experiences with Evans? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craig429 10 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 I am running Evans in my 94 turbocharged 347 GT Mustang. I am running it for it's high temperature rating. I am running an Griffin dual 1" core radiator (largest I can fit without modifying everything), and factory AC. I was running an front mounted intercooler, but was not getting enough air through the radiator so I removed it (now meth injected). I also have GT500 hood vents to allow hot air to escape. This car runs hot. When I was running the intercooler, the coolant temp would go over 240 degrees when running AC in town while the air temp was between 80 and 90. At highway speeds, the temp would drop to 200ish. After removing the intercooler, the coolant temp will stay below 220 in town with the AC on. There just isn't enough air flow in this Mustang especially when I was running the intercooler. I have had the fan relay fail on me and the coolant temp reached over 260. Never did I have Evans boil over. Evans is rated for over 300 degrees and I feel I do not have to worry about boiling over with it. Evans will not transfer heat as well as antifreeze and therefore can cause a car to run hotter. My other cars that do not run hot, I run standard antifreeze. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 I am running Evans in my 94 turbocharged 347 GT Mustang. I am running it for it's high temperature rating. I am running an Griffin dual 1" core radiator (largest I can fit without modifying everything), and factory AC. I was running an front mounted intercooler, but was not getting enough air through the radiator so I removed it (now meth injected). I also have GT500 hood vents to allow hot air to escape. This car runs hot. When I was running the intercooler, the coolant temp would go over 240 degrees when running AC in town while the air temp was between 80 and 90. At highway speeds, the temp would drop to 200ish. After removing the intercooler, the coolant temp will stay below 220 in town with the AC on. There just isn't enough air flow in this Mustang especially when I was running the intercooler. I have had the fan relay fail on me and the coolant temp reached over 260. Never did I have Evans boil over. Evans is rated for over 300 degrees and I feel I do not have to worry about boiling over with it. Evans will not transfer heat as well as antifreeze and therefore can cause a car to run hotter. My other cars that do not run hot, I run standard antifreeze. Craig429 How do you like the Grffin? I saw they now have radiators with 1 and 1/4 tube that are direct fit 69/70s. But they ain't cheap. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details3.php?PartID=332&year=1969&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=7-00164 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-7-00164 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 I am running Evans in my 94 turbocharged 347 GT Mustang. I am running it for it's high temperature rating. I am running an Griffin dual 1" core radiator (largest I can fit without modifying everything), and factory AC. I was running an front mounted intercooler, but was not getting enough air through the radiator so I removed it (now meth injected). I also have GT500 hood vents to allow hot air to escape. This car runs hot. When I was running the intercooler, the coolant temp would go over 240 degrees when running AC in town while the air temp was between 80 and 90. At highway speeds, the temp would drop to 200ish. After removing the intercooler, the coolant temp will stay below 220 in town with the AC on. There just isn't enough air flow in this Mustang especially when I was running the intercooler. I have had the fan relay fail on me and the coolant temp reached over 260. Never did I have Evans boil over. Evans is rated for over 300 degrees and I feel I do not have to worry about boiling over with it. Evans will not transfer heat as well as antifreeze and therefore can cause a car to run hotter. My other cars that do not run hot, I run standard antifreeze. What fan are you running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 Not true. My 1837 Essex overheated mightily until I invested in the Evans kit. Sorry, you are correct, however, they fixed that problem on the 1838 model. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted September 20, 2016 Craig429 How do you like the Grffin? I saw they now have radiators with 1 and 1/4 tube that are direct fit 69/70s. But they ain't cheap. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details3.php?PartID=332&year=1969&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=7-00164 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-7-00164 I have the largest Griffin radiator in my 69 Mach 1. It's 24 inches wide and has 2 rows of 1-1/4" tubes. I have had it about 15 years with no troubles. Although I don't drive the car much and I do replace the coolant every year regardless of how much I use the car. I use a 50/50 mix of anti freeze and distilled water. It did improve cooling a lot. Just guessing by the temp gauge position when my thermostat opens I would say the engine runs about 15 degrees cooler with just a radiator change. This Griffin radiator replaced a 24" wide 4 row copper/brass radiator that a radiator shop built by replacing the core of an original 24" wide radiator with a 4 row core. However there are some fitment issues. The Griffin radiator is supposed to be an exact fit. The tanks are formed to look very much like the originals. The fitment issues arise because the tanks are slightly larger than the original. Especially the lower tank. The radiator will not sit down quite as far as it should even with lowering the bottom saddle mounts as much as possible. This causes fan to shroud alignment problems. Also because it is much thicker than original I had to move the lower mounts and add 1/2" spacers on the upper saddle mount to move it away from the radiator support. If good high efficiency copper/brass radiators weren't well over $500 I would replace the Griffin radiator just to eliminate the fitment issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 Sorry, you are correct, however, they fixed that problem on the 1838 model. Yeah, fat lotta good that did me. I was stuck in a 3 year lease! 2 69RavenConv and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 Well I'm not saying that the car is over heating. Just that it's running hotter than I'd like. Part of all of this maybe expectations. One claim is that Evan's doesn't boil until 375 degrees which is way past the boiling point of 50/50 and that it heats more evenly but I have no way of measuring that. Max Power - can you share some of your experiences with Evans? I don't have any experiences with Evans, I thought my reference to an 1837 model year car made it obvious that I was joking around. Never assume, I guess. And while I have never tried Evans, I have tried aluminum radiators, and this seems to be the best exact fit option out there right now: https://www.dallasmustang.com/parts/cooling-heating/radiators-accessories/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 I don't have any experiences with Evans, I thought my reference to an 1837 model year car made it obvious that I was joking around. Never assume, I guess. And while I have never tried Evans, I have tried aluminum radiators, and this seems to be the best exact fit option out there right now: https://www.dallasmustang.com/parts/cooling-heating/radiators-accessories/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html Yeah I can be a little think sometimes! I actually couldn't find the model when I googled it, but figured it was some obscure antique tractor they always have weird model numbers. I figured 1837 was the model not the year.... ;) http://www.tractorfriends.org/lawngardentractors/gibsontractors/Gibson%20Tractors.html Thanks for the link that looks like a decent Radiator. I wonder if my wife will notice the parts pile has grown if I swap it out again. I punctured the last one this spring so I already bought a radiator this year. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted May 13, 2017 Put in the ACP Aluminum Radiator over the winter. Went for a long drive today. Air Temp is 80 degrees no humidity. Last year the car would run at about 190-193 with weather like this. Today it ran at 176-181. Cooler at a stop due to the contour fans going full blast (need to adjust the DCC a little the fans don't need to go that hard) and low engine speed. At cruise it stayed right around 180. When I changed the radiator out I captured the Evans and reused it. So if it runs like this all year I'm happy to keep the experiment going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 13, 2017 The fans need to spin faster at low speeds than at high speeds because very little air is not being forced thru the rad at low speeds. Haven't you ever seen a car overheat just sitting and idling? What thermostat do you have? What stayed right around 80? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted May 14, 2017 10 hours ago, barnett468 said: The fans need to spin faster at low speeds than at high speeds because very little air is not being forced thru the rad at low speeds. Haven't you ever seen a car overheat just sitting and idling? What thermostat do you have? What stayed right around 80? Sorry updated the post, fat figure. Normal cruise the coolant temperature stayed right at 180 degrees. I think I've seen most cars overheat idling in traffic. What I find a little strange is that I idle cooler than I cruise. I just assume since the engine is under load it is creating more heat. But today it stayed in a good zone temp wise. I have 170 degree high flow in there. Not a name brand I recognize but it seems to be working. Anyway if it works this well when it gets 15 degrees hotter I'll be happy. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-1007 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 14, 2017 it cools better at low speed now because of the fans and/or rad being better than what was previously in there. you should use a 180 t stat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted May 15, 2017 I've been using the Evans coolant for about two years now... I haven't had any overheating problems however their claim of not needing an overflow bottle is false. If you fill the radiator to the top, it will push it out. I'm using a 20" aluminum radiator, original 69 shroud, original thermostat (192 degrees?) and a Ford flex fan from a 78 Mustang II. I rebuilt my engine so there has never been any water or regular coolant in the block. One thing I'll note is that my block had lots of corrosion inside the passages when I pulled the freeze plugs. It took some time but I cleaned all that out really good before I had the machine work done. david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites