Mustangsgalore 11 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 New member and I need help. Trying to puta 69 back together from restore . Problem is no headlights or tail lights . I took fuse panel off cleaned connections installed new headlight switch . I have power at all wires leaving headlight switch but only marker lights are working . Could this be a ground wire I have missed. The only thing not plugged up is horns . I have also not tried with car running only switch on in case that matters . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and GOD bless Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 Check the dimmer switch and connector. I think both low and high beam goes through the dimmer and it just toggles which filaments get juice. I may be wrong but I think I remember seeing that in the schematics. Edit: That would be only for headlights though :-/ Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 The fuse block screws together ,it sandwiches the fire wall . make sure it is pulled all the way together it may not be making full contact in the two halfs . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustangsgalore 11 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks I'll check both this afternoon and post results 1 69mi reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 ridge runner has a great suggesion. If the fuse block is not screwed securely to the connector on the engine side, that will do it. The lights do not use a fuse, none of them are for lights. They have a automatic circuit breaker built into the light switch. When you turn on just the parking lights, do you get them working in front or back? Turn the dimmer on the switch to fully bright, do you get any instrument panel lights? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustangsgalore 11 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 Parking lights work front and rear. Checked fuse box bolt and it's tight . Actually got tail lights working loose ground in trunk . Still no headlights. The dimmer switch is getting power to center wire . With dimmer switch unplugged should only the center wire be hot and not the 2 outside wires?? Thanks for the help guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted January 16, 2015 Parking lights work front and rear. Checked fuse box bolt and it's tight . Actually got tail lights working loose ground in trunk . Still no headlights. The dimmer switch is getting power to center wire . With dimmer switch unplugged should only the center wire be hot and not the 2 outside wires?? Thanks for the help guys Yes: when the dimmer switch connector is taken off of the switch, only the center (red/black) will be hot and only when the headlight switch is fully pulled out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustangsgalore 11 Report post Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks a lot for the help. The dimmer switch was the problem somehow just went bad. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to read and help me out. There are a lot of answers and suggestions on the internet. Better to ask people who have experienced it . GOD bless Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Is there any way to just check resistances in this switch to tell if it is good while off the car? Also, does anyone have the pinout info, which pins power which? There should be 12v coming to it, which pins would carry that? It seems that D1/D2 are the dome light switch. Carry 12v when the which is twisted all the way right and clicked on. I've measured that the resistance varies from 0 ohms to ~5 ohms on pins I to D1 (I think - that is the dash lights dimmer). Anybody know the full story on these pins? I really just wanna know if this thing is broken or not before I drop $ and wait for the new one to get here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 here you go 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Exactly what I've been looking for. Thx! Is there any way to tell if the switch has been "ruined" either from age or overheating? Can I check pin-to-pin resistances? Currently dash lights work (but don't dim), dome works fine, and marker lights get 12V. But headlights getting less than 1V when switch pulled (on). They get something between 0.25v to 0.7v when switch is pulled (on), but when switch is pushed (off), they definitely get 0.0v I'm believing the switch is bad, but just trying to be sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 You can test it out of the car by supplying 12 v to B1, then test voltage output on B2 and H - pull the switch ON and see if you have 12v output on those terminals. The switches do go bad. Worth checking your high/low beam switch too, (foot switch) as that is a common fail part when headlights do not work. Probably the culprit if your tail lights work and your headlights don't. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Thanks, I'm gonna try that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Excellent thread, thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Ha. It just occurs to me that I don't have the foot switch installed. It's on the to-do list... I will go hook it up and see if things improve.... I notice the diagram and my switch are not the same. I figure the diagram has all options, I just have a base coupe so I'm just chalking it up to that. One question tho, how do I apply 12v to B1. I'm gonna assume positive 12v on that pin and ground (negative) to metal housing. More soon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 29, 2015 Bingo. The problem was that the foot switch wasn't installed. As soon as I hooked that up I have 12v+ at the headlight. I wouldn't have gotten there without SA69mach's comment about the foot switch! Thanks! And BTW, as a recap, the signature I would get with the foot switch unhooked was that I would get something between 0.25v and 0.8v when headlight switch pulled out - that seems really odd, but that's what it did. Now, I'm gonna go search and see if I can find the precise location to mount the foot switch, I've dynamatted the whole floor and now I have no idea where to put the 2 screws down! Thanks a ton for the help, these forums are awesome for getting thru these kinds of issues in a restore. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Cool for you, you got lights now. Glad you found the forum some help. The slow way to find your screw holes for the foot switch (through dynamat) is to poke around with a pick or an awl until you strike the right spot. The fast way is to take a scraper and peel back the section covering the switch location and just find the holes, and cut out the appropriate area to mount your switch. it wont affect your insulation. That material will stick down again when you are finished, so don't sweat it. Good luck either way. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 173 Report post Posted March 30, 2015 I think I am headed to do the scraper method - my dynamat is already pretty aerated from what I have done so far. Who wants to spend the time - particularly under the dash which has GOT to be the biggest PITA location to work in. Even with the seat out, there is just no comfortable way to get in there and work on under dash stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
